VPN and incognito browsing mode ... not enough to keep them from tracking me as I research this?
That should help. But, if you are using Chrome and/or google to search, then Google and their huge ad network knows. As long as ALL traffic (eg, including DNS) is going across that VPN, and you have plugged other IP address leak tricks (eg WebRTC), then probably your ISP doesn't directly know what you are doing.
It would be more than just annoyance. Car computers these days 'learn' a driver's habits and can adjust the vehicle's performance to match. With the Subaru, the MPG improves as the car learns how the operator accelerates, brakes, etc and modifies the fuel curve to compensate. It can be somewhat pre programmed by the driver where the driver/owner can set the style of throttle curve they prefer for example, or shift aggressiveness for city driving, mountain driving, etc. Computer control opens a whole new world on customization of a car to it's owner and sometimes a second owner. A button or specialized key fob will activate certain features of the car for one driver that is set different for another. The Subaru, like many new manufacturer's cars, uses a main screen 'infotainment' system that is tied to a cell phone that you tether. I can use that phone remotely and track my car, set alarm limits to send me texts or e-mails if the car exceeds a high speed limit, a range limit, it will track the car for me and show me on a map where it is, I can start it remotely, honk the horn, lock the doors, etc. all remotely. Work great when my wife has left some place headed home and I want to see where she is if she's late. Also to tell if your kid has been speeding or drove someplace else when they said they were going to a friends to study. Very stealthy and very techy. Disconnecting the battery for any length of time wipes much of that out. There's short term memory storage I presume, but probably not weeks worth if you decide to leave the battery disconnected that long.
....In parallel I will search for a 2017/18 AWD Rav4, and a 2017-2019 Escape. In this case, used and at the tail end of the previous generations might be wise.
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Subaru's are notorious for using trash batteries. If you were to purchase a subaru, have then knock $200 off the final price because you want to purchase a battery of quality. They'll budge. SAme thing for rav4.
I am absolutely gutted. And torn about what to do.
Last week many of you helped me find a 2020 Toyota Rav4, and I tracked down what I wanted in Colorado (would fly up from Texas). The Costco price was excellent, and the manufacturer's incentive was good as well. Walking out at 12% under MSRP, a very happy camper.
https://www.early-retirement.org/forums/f27/need-help-locating-buying-new-awd-rav4-105774.html
But today while researching trailer hitches, I discovered on FB -- and followed up on Toyota and Rav4 discussion forums -- that there is a significant electrical problem with many 2020 Rav4s which renders them un-startable after not being driven. sometimes for as little as overnight! Some of the reports are for vehicles with <1000 miles on them, and one is for a vehicle purchased just a few days earlier: parked on Friday evening, and dead on Monday morning. It displays as a "SmartKey System Malfunction."
It is not known if it is a software glitch or a parasitic drain, but apparently the batteries, registering as "very dead" can be jumped, and when the vehicle driven to the dealership test out as "no problem. You must have left something on."
Some folks are being told that the new vehicles, with all their electrical and electronic components, need to be driven every two days at a minimum. That rules out parking at an airport.
Folks are also being advised to carry a battery jumper -- for a new $35K car. Others report their new vehicles sitting at the dealership for days for "diagnosis" only to come up with "nothing wrong."
I can't figure out just how pervasive the problem is, but on four forums the complaints were as recent as yesterday. It may also be a problem with the 2020 Camry.
I assume that if I call the CO dealer and express my concern, he will say there isn't a problem, or that a software update will solve it. Not according to folks on the forums who have had the DCM updated.
It might be more prudent to call on Monday and kill the deal, and just eat the $500 deposit. I can't have a vehicle I worry about. So much for reliable Toyotas.
And start the search again for another brand/model.
That's the right thing to do, right?
Any other ideas or advice? I am in a tizzy. And none of my friends are "savvy car people" to consult.
If this problem is as widespread as the reviews seem to indicate, there will be a recall in short order to correct. Toyota can't put up with that kind of advertising for long.
My 2019 Highlander had a recall for the fuel pump, and was replaced, and I never had any trouble before the replacement.
A E-R forum friend just told me about an item he installed on his seldom-used vehicle which will "temporarily kill" the electrical system in a vehicle before the battery is completely drained, thus leaving enough battery power to get your vehicle started. Yes, if there are parasitic losses causing a battery to drain, you'll lose the radio settings, etc...but you won't be stranded somewhere with a dead battery.
Here's an item like he described https://www.amazon.com/LI-LEAD-Star...NYJHYRMGV07&psc=1&refRID=28NWXYBB6NYJHYRMGV07
There are some other similar items on amazon. I merely picked this one as the description offers a lot of answers to questions you might have.
So for around $100 you know you always have at least one battery start. And, as it is wired in-series with your battery, it doesn't need any ongoing attention as far as periodic recharging (like a battery pack does).
Thought posters upthread might find this item of interest, since they have mentioned battery drainage issues or concerns with having a vehicle sit for long periods (like at an airport when going away on a lengthy trip).
omni
All our company fleet vehicles had a device called a Battery Buddy. If the battery voltage dropped to a risky level, it would trip. To reset, there was a button to push. It left enough juice in the battery to give the car a chance to start.