Retorque Wheels

[Gumby]

I have always done my own tire rotation, so it is only an issue for me when I get new tires. Then, I usually checked them myself the next day (I commuted 100 miles a day). If you can remember to do that yourself, there's no need to go back to the tire place. And, as noted above, they usually over-torque them anyway because they use the air guns.

 

[Love This Community]

Got new set of tires for my SUV at Costco last week and got them “checked” for torque after driving about 50 miles. Haven’t done it in the past but I guess I am paying more attention and happened to be near Costco between my chores run.

 

[OldShooter]

I never do it. Never did it when I was racing, either. Never saw a situation that might have needed it.

Just once, maybe 20 years ago, I had the left front on a Suburban start to wobble. Easy enough to detect. It turned out that the tire shop had not torqued the nuts after running them down lightly with an air wrench.

Something that some people don't realize is that it is very easy to overtorque lug nuts with a big breaker bar or with a cross-wrench. This can result in a broken stud.

 

[Car-Guy]

Something that some people don't realize is that it is very easy to overtorque lug nuts with a big breaker bar or with a cross-wrench. This can result in a broken stud.

A younger man doesn't need a breaker bar to twist off studs.... It can be done with just a regular 4 way. Ask me how I know. Now at my age it's not so much of a problem, although I did snap one off on one of my tractors last year just using a four way... And I know better...

 

[Winemaker]

I never have. But I lost a business friend when a tire came off a truck on the interstate in the opposite lane and struck him head on.

 

[RetiredAt55.5]

I never do it. Never did it when I was racing, either. Never saw a situation that might have needed it.

Just once, maybe 20 years ago, I had the left front on a Suburban start to wobble. Easy enough to detect. It turned out that the tire shop had not torqued the nuts after running them down lightly with an air wrench.

Something that some people don't realize is that it is very easy to overtorque lug nuts with a big breaker bar or with a cross-wrench. This can result in a broken stud.

Yes, that's just a very bad idea tightening lug nuts with a breaker bar. I'm surprised anyone would think of doing that.

 

[Walt34]

Couldn't get the lugs off and had to call for road service, took about 3 hour for them to find us.

I was concerned about this happening, especially with DW who wouldn't have a prayer of being able to loosen the lug nuts, so I put together what I call the "old person's tire changing kit" for each vehicle. It's a Milwaukee battery powered impact wrench with the appropriately size impact socket on it, a battery powered light that stands up and illuminates a pretty good area, and a pair of cheap leather gloves, all contained in a nice Milwaukee tool canvas bag that I'm sure will outlive both of us. At the time Milwaukee sold a kit with the impact wrench, the light, charger, and canvas bag all in one kit, I think it was a bit over $200 and I bought two of them. Apparently they don't offer that kit anymore and the link is the closest thing I could find that's current.

I checked, and yes it does easily remove the lug nuts on both the Honda Accord and the GMC pickup truck. The batteries are checked every six months and are holding up fine.

In reality I fully expect that if we do get a flat we'll call for a service truck but if we can't, or no one will respond, that's "Plan B".

 

[skyking1]

Yes, that's just a very bad idea tightening lug nuts with a breaker bar. I'm surprised anyone would think of doing that.

I've got torque wrenches, air impacts, electric impacts, and breaker bars and sockets. I'd wager I can get within 10% of torque values with the breaker bar due to experience.
My 3500 SRW Ram truck requires 150 ft/lbs of torque and that is not easy even with the breaker.
A small car? yes not needed. I have been stranded with a flat tire that got hammered on with the air impact at Sears, years ago. I broke a socket trying to get that one off.

 

[easysurfer]

I was concerned about this happening, especially with DW who wouldn't have a prayer of being able to loosen the lug nuts, so I put together what I call the "old person's tire changing kit" for each vehicle. It's a Milwaukee battery powered impact wrench with the appropriately size impact socket on it, a battery powered light that stands up and illuminates a pretty good area, and a pair of cheap leather gloves, all contained in a nice Milwaukee tool canvas bag that I'm sure will outlive both of us. At the time Milwaukee sold a kit with the impact wrench, the light, charger, and canvas bag all in one kit, I think it was a bit over $200 and I bought two of them. Apparently they don't offer that kit anymore and the link is the closest thing I could find that's current.

I checked, and yes it does easily remove the lug nuts on both the Honda Accord and the GMC pickup truck. The batteries are checked every six months and are holding up fine.

In reality I fully expect that if we do get a flat we'll call for a service truck but if we can't, or no one will respond, that's "Plan B".

I have both a Milwaukee impact wrench (one strong enough to take off lug nuts from an 18 Wheeler) and a digital torque wrench. Even if never used, worth the peace of mind.

I did put both to good use about 2 years ago when had a flat and changed the tire on my own.

 

[ExFlyBoy5]

I don't need a torque wrench for my truck. It is dang tight with an 18" breaker bar. That is the official spec.

I believe that is the "German Torque"... Gut und tight.

I haven't had a car tire come of before, but *did* have two tires from the nose landing gear of a C-5 airplane come off during take-off. They crashed through the perimeter fence, crossed a 4 lane road and stopped several hundred feet away in a gas station parking lot. Maintenance neglected to secure the wheel assemblies and thankfully no one was killed by them

 

[Koolau]

I do what they tell me to do - since it's free. I like Costco tire service and it's close, so no problem. One nice thing about living on a small Island is that my insurance-based road service is never far away. I'd like to think I'll never change a tire myself again. You never know. I still know how to do it, though newer cars (you know, like late 90's and beyond) can be tricky. Finding where the jack IS and where it GOES means studying the manual. It's not like the old days when I probably changed at least one tire a year - back in my accumulation phase. Now, it's "Blow That Dough." YMMV

 

[foxfirev5]

I do check my lugs to make sure they're snug after I rotate my tires. I am pleased to note that my new Toyota manual shows the lift points for a floor jack in addition to the vague instructions for the scissor under rocker panel decal for temp spare installation. As long as I enjoy it I'm a DYI guy even with the free 2 year maintenance. However they do offer a lifetime drivetrain warranty if they do the service. I understand the cost is covered by maintenance. However I'm a big Mobil1 and Michelin tire fan so I'll change and rotate myself. Prior to purchase I walked the lot and found my specs with Michelin tires not the other run of the mill OEM offerings.
Since it's a Toyota it's a wash in my book. Anyway the dealer is over 50 miles away. Change the oil, rotate the tires and check the lugs!

 

[ncbill]

Were I worried (I'm not) I'd use a real torque wrench on the lug nuts, never a breaker bar, to manually tighten them down.

 

[RunningBum]

Timely thread. I just took off my winter tires. I started hearing a thumping sound that increased with speed, coming from the left front. I always learned to not get the lug nuts too tight while on the jack, and apparently I didn't tighten 4 of them on that wheel after lowering it. Thumping sound gone. Kicking myself for being careless. I guess in addition to being more careful when I do the work, I'll also check the lugs after the first real drive.

I use a telescoping lug wrench which helps a lot getting the lug nuts off. I use the shortest length when putting them back on so I don't over-tighten. This gives me better peace of mind that if I need to change a flat tire away from home I'll be able to do it. As I've gotten older the lug nuts are just a little harder to get off with the provided lug wrench. I also got a bottle jack, which is much easier to use than the scissors jack too.

 

[bjorn2bwild]

The technique for loosening stubborn lug nuts is to step on the lug wrench if possible - the legs are stronger than the arms.
I can easily break the nuts loose on my truck using this procedure with the stock "\_" shaped tool.

 

[Music Lover]

Timely thread. I just took off my winter tires. I started hearing a thumping sound that increased with speed, coming from the left front. I always learned to not get the lug nuts too tight while on the jack, and apparently I didn't tighten 4 of them on that wheel after lowering it.

I've never heard that and don't understand it. You would think that tightening the lug nuts before there is weight on the wheel helps to ensure that the wheel is seated properly. Once it's one the ground it's impossible to do that.

 

[RunningBum]

I've never heard that and don't understand it. You would think that tightening the lug nuts before there is weight on the wheel helps to ensure that the wheel is seated properly. Once it's one the ground it's impossible to do that.

I get them tight enough to seat the wheel, or so I thought. I don't want to pull so hard as to rock the car off the jack. I think that's more important when loosening the lugs when you might really have to crank on it. But yes, I'm going to tighten them more while the wheel is off the ground to make sure. In fact I'm going to jack it up again to get the weight off and make sure it's really on as it should be. I just had a medical procedure done and am not supposed to be doing much this week.

 

[Music Lover]

I get them tight enough to seat the wheel, or so I thought. I don't want to pull so hard as to rock the car off the jack. I think that's more important when loosening the lugs when you might really have to crank on it. But yes, I'm going to tighten them more while the wheel is off the ground to make sure. In fact I'm going to jack it up again to get the weight off and make sure it's really on as it should be. I just had a medical procedure done and am not supposed to be doing much this week.

An electric impact wrench would be handy. It's a lot easier to get them tight and there's very little danger of rocking the car off the jack.

I never even investigated getting one...I just assumed they were air tools. For 20 years I swapped tires on 3 - 5 vehicles twice a year manually. Then one day my dad handed me an electric impact wrench. Tire swaps went from over an hour to 20 minutes.

 

[skyking1]

I just put the torque wrench on the work trailer.
I had replaced the brakes, backing plates hubs and drums last summer and that was the first time I had checked it out again. Nothing was loose but I took it a little bit tighter.

 

[RunningBum]

An electric impact wrench would be handy. It's a lot easier to get them tight and there's very little danger of rocking the car off the jack.

I never even investigated getting one...I just assumed they were air tools. For 20 years I swapped tires on 3 - 5 vehicles twice a year manually. Then one day my dad handed me an electric impact wrench. Tire swaps went from over an hour to 20 minutes.

Hmm, maybe. I don't think that's where I'm spending my time. Getting the bottle jack and pad positioned is part of it, another is getting the wheel back on. Twirling the lugs takes a little time, but not that much.

I worry about over-torquing and having trouble getting lug nuts back off in an emergency. The ones I saw didn't seem to have any torque control. Maybe more expensive ones do. I don't want to spend too much on something I'll use twice a year. The nice thing about using a lug wrench is that I can feel how tight it's going on. But I do get that this wouldn't rock the car.

I'd like to think I won't make this mistake again. Usually I'm good about going around to all 4 wheels at the end and giving a last tug. Maybe I missed it this time. Or maybe I didn't tighten them enough with the weight off, and back on the ground I couldn't get them tight even though they weren't fully on. The latter is probably it now that I think about it.

 

[Walt34]

I worry about over-torquing and having trouble getting lug nuts back off in an emergency.

Here's one solution for that. The nickname is "torque sticks". It's an extension rod that flexes at the point of it's rated torque it's supposed to flex (in torque) so that as the impact wrench uh, impacts, it twists enough to keep the nut from tightening any further. Obviously they cannot be exact because of differences in different brands of impact wrenches work - some have longer impact times but lower torque, other "hit harder" but for shorter times and stuff like that - but they limit the amount of torque that an impact wrench will apply. The idea is that if you want to limit torque to say 100 ft lbs, you use a torque stick rated at 85 or 90 ft lbs, and then use a torque wrench to tighten to specification.

This is just one example, others abound:

https://www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-...que+wrench+for+lug+nuts&qid=1617234423&sr=8-8

Edit to add:

I just remembered: Milwaukee makes a line of battery operated tools, including impact wrenches, that are called "One-key" that can be programmed with a phone app. One of the neat things is that on a specific setting - there are four or five such settings - you can limit the torque applied for a specific application such as your lug nuts. I don't have one of these since I have no need for one, but that is an option as well. Also, if it is stolen you can disable it via the phone app thus making it useless to the thief. That's a deterrent if the thief knows that. Shop around for these, Amazon is more often than not, NOT the lowest price. I've found Home Depot is usually best on price for Milwaukee tools. Be prepared for sticker shock, these are expensive tools.

From the description:

Unlimited tool customization allows you to connect to the tool and access predetermined Set-Ups for specific fasteners and materials, or have complete control over output Speed and power for the specific application at hand. With one-key, users now have a tool that delivers the most repeatable torque output in the industry. Users looking for a targeted torque range now have solution that will get users close to their targeted torque value, reducing the likelihood of significant under or over torque.

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-El...5303&sprefix=Milwaukee+impact+,aps,255&sr=8-4

 

[RunningBum]

Here's one solution for that. The nickname is "torque sticks". It's an extension rod that flexes at the point of it's rated torque it's supposed to flex (in torque) so that as the impact wrench uh, impacts, it twists enough to keep the nut from tightening any further.

Looks useful if I go this route, thanks.

 

[calmloki]

So now I'm fretting just a bit. Rotated the tires on the CX5 yesterday - only problem is I seem to have taken my 1/2" torque wrench north last trip and was without down here. Torque specs call for 80 to 108 foot pounds; I usually go 85#. A neighbor down here said he had a torque wrench and he loaned it - turned out it was a 3/8" with a maximum torque of 75#. I did my normal star pattern tightening and went with 45# and then 75#. Still a touch low, but I feel like even tightening trumps a little under-tightening. Engineers?

 

[travelover]

So now I'm fretting just a bit. Rotated the tires on the CX5 yesterday - only problem is I seem to have taken my 1/2" torque wrench north last trip and was without down here. Torque specs call for 80 to 108 foot pounds; I usually go 85#. A neighbor down here said he had a torque wrench and he loaned it - turned out it was a 3/8" with a maximum torque of 75#. I did my normal star pattern tightening and went with 45# and then 75#. Still a touch low, but I feel like even tightening trumps a little under-tightening. Engineers?

You can estimate torque by simply standing on the ratchet at the right spot. For example if you want to exert 100 foot pounds of torque and weight 200 pounds, stand about 6 inches from the end of the business end of the ratchet.

 

[calmloki]

You can estimate torque by simply standing on the ratchet at the right spot. For example if you want to exert 100 foot pounds of torque and weight 200 pounds, stand about 6 inches from the end of the business end of the ratchet.

By golly I think you've got it! At 162# all I need to do is a single hand handstand on my 3/8" 8.5" long SnapOn ratchet. smoothly. no jumping. 20 times.