New Car Tire Needed

[easysurfer]

I check the tire pressure of my car every couple of months. I do so at the start of the months otherwise I'd forget.

So, today when looking the first thing I noticed is one tire as a bulge. I do remember hitting a big pothole a couple months back and think that may be the reason.

I expect to need a new tire (have an appointment at car place tomorrow).

Had a similar thing happen years back (but sidewall blew that time). Then, had one tire changed. I expect this time, one tire change too.

Makes me think, so what's the thing about making sure to change all tires or in pairs and front or back (I forget which) for best traction? Doesn't only have one tire replaced at a time defeat the rule of thumb?

One my one tire was changed to a new one after the sidewall blow out, I did notice a difference in traction. Until I assume the new one got evenly worn like the rest.

 

[Car-Guy]

AWD, FWD, or RWD? Positional tires or are all the same? How many miles on the tires?

 

[easysurfer]

AWD, FWD, or RWD? How many miles on the tires?

At least over 50K miles on tire.

 

[Car-Guy]

A bulge is bad no matter which tire and 50k miles is a lot. Do the other tires still have a lot of tread? (Check the wear bars) How old are the tires?

 

[Plantman]

At 50k+ miles I'd probably be looking to replace all 4 tires.

 

[OldShooter]

I have almost no loyalty to any retailer but I do trust Discount Tire in matters like this. Issues include the rolling radius of the pair of tires and how it might effect anti-spin/traction control features. Your owner manual should tell you what you need to know.

Another issue is the age of the other three tires. There is a date code on the sidewall and in some cases DT will not work on an elderly tire. I don't know the date code system but Google can probably tell you.

 

[Ian S]

If the tires have over 50K miles on them, they don't owe you anything. I'd replace them all. I recommend Discount Tire who almost certainly have a sale and/or rebates on a new set of 4.

 

[bloom2708]

Look at a set at minimum. A 75% worn tire has a different diameter as compared to a new tire.

You could look on eBay and try to find a used tire that matches the tread depth of your current tires. Say you have 6/32 left. See if a used one is out there with that tread.

I'd just buy a set and put them on the front or buy 4 new tires.

Don't scrimp on tires and running/walking shoes.

 

[easysurfer]

One of the tires (new after a previous blowout) has about 20K. The rest over 50K.

I don't mind replacing all if needed.

 

[Car-Guy]

If they are getting old and/or have more than half the tread gone (likely w/50k miles) I'd get a new set. One of my motto's on car maintenance, is not to scrimp on tires and brakes.

 

[Jerry1]

I wouldn’t hesitate to get a new set. There may be better tires, but I like Michelins and would just go ahead and get them. I do like Discount Tire but I may try Costco next time I need tires.

It sounds corny but the tires are literally where the rubber meets the road. Think of those four small patches that stand between you and the road. After they’re about half way worn, I start thinking about a new set. If I had a blowout before they got too old, I’d get at least a pair. Only once did I buy a single tire. I think the original tire had less than 5K miles on it.

 

[Car-Guy]

^^^^
Wow, agree 100%. I like Michelins a lot, I like Discount Tires (usually very good service) and absolutely agree with the "where the rubber meets the road" sentiment.

 

[MichaelB]

Makes me think, so what's the thing about making sure to change all tires or in pairs and front or back (I forget which) for best traction? Doesn't only have one tire replaced at a time defeat the rule of thumb?

One my one tire was changed to a new one after the sidewall blow out, I did notice a difference in traction. Until I assume the new one got evenly worn like the rest.

I’m no Car Guy but I’ve read the need for closely matched tires and tread wear is more important with AWL cars like Subaru.

I wouldn’t hesitate to get a new set. There may be better tires, but I like Michelins and would just go ahead and get them. I do like Discount Tire but I may try Costco next time I need tires.

I got new tires 5 months ago, Michelins at Costco. They were at least 10% less expensive than then next lowest option.

 

[pb4uski]

At 50k+ miles I'd probably be looking to replace all 4 tires.

+1, depending on the remaining tread on the other 3 tires. Is the spare a full-size spare and of the same make and size as the other tires? If so and the spare is new then you mght buy 3 new and use the spare on the 4 wheels and reserve one of the 50k mile tires as a spare.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Go somewhere that sells used tires. Try to get a brand and size and tread life match for the tire with 20K miles on it. If you have a front wheel drive car put the 20K tire and the matching used tire you just bought on the front wheels. Put the 2 remaining tires with 50K (but no bulges) on the rear wheels. After you've put on 5,000 - 6,000 more miles go to Discount Tire and buy 2 brand new tires equivalent (or better) than the ones you have on the front wheels. Put the new tires on the front wheels and put the tires with 25K miles on the rear wheels.

 

[Jerry1]

Go somewhere that sells used tires. Try to get a brand and size and tread life match for the tire with 20K miles on it. If you have a front wheel drive car put the 20K tire and the matching used tire you just bought on the front wheels. Put the 2 remaining tires with 50K (but no bulges) on the rear wheels. After you've put on 5,000 - 6,000 more miles go to Discount Tire and buy 2 brand new tires equivalent (or better) than the ones you have on the front wheels. Put the new tires on the front wheels and put the tires with 25K miles on the rear wheels.

Not sure if Tire Rack is an authoritative source, but their advice is consistent with what I’ve read in the past. You put the new tires on the back if you buy a pair of tires with a front wheel drive vehicle.

https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-ga...e mounted,potentially causing loss of control.

 

[pb4uski]

I wouldn’t hesitate to get a new set. There may be better tires, but I like Michelins and would just go ahead and get them. I do like Discount Tire but I may try Costco next time I need tires.

It sounds corny but the tires are literally where the rubber meets the road. Think of those four small patches that stand between you and the road. After they’re about half way worn, I start thinking about a new set. If I had a blowout before they got too old, I’d get at least a pair. Only once did I buy a single tire. I think the original tire had less than 5K miles on it.

I’m no Car Guy but I’ve read the need for closely matched tires and tread wear is more important with AWL cars like Subaru.

I got new tires 5 months ago, Michelins at Costco. They were at least 10% less expensive than then next lowest option.

Yes, for AWD drive cars, it is recommended that all tires be replaced at once otherwise it puts strain on the AWD system... I've never really understood why, but have heard it so often that I believe it is true.

When the OEM tires on our 2016 Subaru Outback wore out at 26,400 miles, I bought a set of Michelin Premier LTX tires from Costco because I had had good experience with Michelins in the past. Well, 20k miles into a 60k mile tire, they were toast.

Costco replaced them under warranty at 48,860 miles. I was inclined to go with a different tire but the Costco tire guy talked me into the same Michelin Premier LTX tire. Well, 20k miles into that set at 69,449 miles, those were toast too and barely passed inspection with 2-4/32nds. A different Costco guy (different store too) said that they were having a lot of problems with that model and that he recommended that I change so I did.

Happy with my BF Goodrich tires so far. Costco is great... Michelin Premier LTX I would avoid.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Not sure if Tire Rack is an authoritative source, but their advice is consistent with what I’ve read in the past. You put the new tires on the back if you buy a pair of tires with a front wheel drive vehicle.

https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-ga...e mounted,potentially causing loss of control.

Yeah, try that in Minnesota in the winter. Traction FAIL!

Not only that, most of the weight of a front wheel drive vehicle is over the front tires, which are the drive tires, which means they will wear out faster than the "passive" rear tires.

I see nothing in that article mentioning rear vs. front wheel drive configurations.

 

[Jerry1]

Yeah, try that in Minnesota in the winter. Traction FAIL!

Not only that, most of the weight of a front wheel drive vehicle is over the front tires, which are the drive tires, which means they will wear out faster than the "passive" rear tires.

I see nothing in that article mentioning rear vs. front wheel drive configurations.

In reading some more, it does seem that it doesn’t matter what the drive configuration is. However, FWD cars are mentioned in the second article.

As always, you do you.


https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a3121/6-common-tire-myths-debunked-10031440/

https://www.wfirm.com/when-replacin...the-new-tires-be-placed-on-the-front-or-back/

 

[Aerides]

Most car tire places are onto us. They know we need two to have a match on wear when replacing one. So they have "buy 3 get 4" as you almost feel silly stopping at 2 at that point.

Given your mileage on them, get 4, but shop around.

 

[Ronstar]

50k plus miles on the tires - I'd change all of them and keep the best one for a spare. If you have a full size spare.

 

[OldShooter]

Not sure if Tire Rack is an authoritative source, but their advice is consistent with what I’ve read in the past. You put the new tires on the back ...

When a car is cornering, the front and the rear stick differently. If the front sticks better than the rear, then the car will "oversteer," slightly overreacting to steering inputs as the rear gets loose. If the rear sticks better, then the car will "understeer" and will be trying to straighten out the curve.

In street car driving the only time this starts to matter is in the rain. The effect of shallower tread depth in the front will be that the car will understeer when the car approaches the limit -- the car will tend to go straight off a turn. Shallower tread on the rear will make the car tend to oversteer, which can turn into a spin with a driver who is not paying attention. So that is why the recommendation is to put the deeper tread on the rear. Apparently the tire dealers feel that for normal drivers understeer is the lesser evil. Note that these effects have nothing directly to do with the location of the drive wheels.

FWIW, on dry pavement the situation reverses. Tires with shallower tread depth actually stick better than those with deep tread. (That is why Formula1 tried requiring treaded tires a few years back -- to slow the cars down.) Street car driving only very rarely approaches any kind of a traction limit on dry pavement, so that is why oversteer is not a significant issue.

Race cars are typically set up with a little oversteer. It's the faster choice and the cars are livelier and easier to drive. In many classes, there will be a driver-adjustable anti-roll (aka "sway") bar to tune oversteer/understeer to taste as a race progresses.

 

[easysurfer]

50k plus miles on the tires - I'd change all of them and keep the best one for a spare. If you have a full size spare.

Good idea. Unfortunately, car only has room for a doughnut as a spare.

 

[JoeWras]

My parents had a severe oversteer accident when I was in utero. I'm lucky to be here.

Reason? Dad put two new tires on the front. They oversteered in a rain shower, got sideways, hit the shoulder and overturned. Yes, oversteer is worse for regular drivers.

Dad always replaced all 4 for the rest of his life after that.

 

[old medic]

I don't know the date code system but Google can probably tell you.

There are 4 numbers. 1st 2 are the week, 2nd are the year
0122 would have been manufactured the 1st week of 2022.