Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[John Galt III]

I thought my trans fluid drip was getting worse, under my 1988 GTA Trans Am, but it turned out to be an antifreeze leak. I traced it up to a 7 inch length of heater hose in front of the air intake. Old and rotted. Removed the old hose, will go out today to Autozone for a new foot of hose. Surprising how much effort it was to get the old one off. Without damaging any of the other stuff in the area. Waiting for that feeling of satisfaction when I hook up the new hose !

 

[John Galt III]

I replaced the cartridge in my Leland Delta kitchen faucet. This is the third time in 12 years I've had to replace it to mitigate dripping. It's a good thing Delta offers a lifetime warranty on faucet cartridges.

Also, I had to tighten the bolt under the sink that holds the faucet in place. I've had to do this at least 5 or 6 times in the past 12 years. I've even purchased the special tool from Delta to (supposedly) make it easier. It's not easy to do even with the tool.

This faucet is by far them most disappointing purchase I've made in the past 25 years.

We redid the master bathroom a couple years ago and I foolishly went with a Delta faucet. It doesn't drip but the darn bolt that holds it tight does come loose. It's a bit easier to access so I'm not to mad about it.

When we redid the main bath I went with a Moen faucet.

I have Moen faucets in my house. I have to change the cartridges now and then, and they are somewhat of a pita. I am currently living with an intermittent drip from the kitchen faucet. Not losing much water. The faucets are not a problem, just the cartridges. I can get free replacement carts mailed to me from Moen. Last time I did that, they said something about 'this would be the last one', so maybe the freebies are a thing of the past, lol.

 

[Blue Poles]

Not sure how cold it gets where you live but in my experience (Minnesota) I always have garage door opener problems in the depths of winter!

I've been band-aiding my garage door opener for at least 10 years now. I applaud your decision to go new and I bet you will love the wifi accessibility.

If you are away from your house will you be able to check your Nest camera to see if the garage door is open, and if it is will you be able to close it remotely?

Yeah, the problem started in the cold last winter and I had to readjust the door travel limits. But the controller decided to quit during the heat wave.

I set up the WiFi and installed the phone app yesterday. It worked as advertised when I was on the same WiFi network. Today I went out to lunch and tried it using my phone from the brewpub. And it worked, so I am happy.

 

[Car-Guy]

Our main remote electric gate opener was having trouble. It wasn't automatically closing all the way (like it should) and was starting to sag a little. I had to reset it, replace a few bolts and tighten a few others. Looks great and works like new now. The best part is I had everything I needed in my shop, so no cost other than a little of my time.

 

[braumeister]

Started a small job and realized that it was going to take me at least half a day to do the part I was working on. I have nearly every tool known to man, so I thought about what I could use to speed things up but drew a blank. Then I remembered a new tool I bought a coupe of years ago but never used. Hauled it out and finished the job in ten minutes. It seemed like magic the way it was so perfectly suited to the task.

I had always heard a lot of good things about the Bosch oscillating multitool, but couldn't think of anything I would need it for. Extremely glad I broke down and got one!

 

[JoeWras]

Started a small job and realized that it was going to take me at least half a day to do the part I was working on. I have nearly every tool known to man, so I thought about what I could use to speed things up but drew a blank. Then I remembered a new tool I bought a coupe of years ago but never used. Hauled it out and finished the job in ten minutes. It seemed like magic the way it was so perfectly suited to the task.

I had always heard a lot of good things about the Bosch oscillating multitool, but couldn't think of anything I would need it for. Extremely glad I broke down and got one!

I was just talking about this tool on the Inflation thread, of all places.

We'd be dead without this tool in our disaster recovery work. Over the years I've learned more techniques. Most are demo related, of course. But some can be for building.

Instead of pulling and spreading, cutting nails out from sandwiched boards can save them. There are also a lot of places where you can nip out old wood that in the past you'd use a demo chisel on.

All this from a tool invented to remove plaster casts.

 

[braumeister]

I was just talking about this tool on the Inflation thread, of all places.

Great minds ...

 

[NW-Bound]

A couple of years ago, I bought a cheap oscillating tool from Harbor Freight for a flooring project. Got the job done. The tool has not broken yet.

Forgot how much I paid, but Harbor Freight no longer has the one I bought. They have 6 models, ranging in price from $20 to $80. Mine looks the most like the $20 one.

 

[JoeWras]

A couple of years ago, I bought a cheap oscillating tool from Harbor Freight for a flooring project. Got the job done. The tool has not broken yet.

Forgot how much I paid, but Harbor Freight no longer has the one I bought. They have 6 models, ranging in price from $20 to $80. Mine looks the most like the $20 one.

In the early 2000s, I had read about this tool in Popular Mechanics and was really wanting one, but Fein held the patent and they were like $500.

Then I had a flooring project to do, and learned about under-cutting moulding. The multi tool is perfect for this. The year was 2013. The only one I could afford was at Harbor Freight for like $30. I figured if it got me through this job, I'm good. It even came with extra motor brushes. Ha ha.

I'm still using it today!

 

[ERD50]

In the early 2000s, I had read about this tool in Popular Mechanics and was really wanting one, but Fein held the patent and they were like $500.

Then I had a flooring project to do, and learned about under-cutting moulding. The multi tool is perfect for this. The year was 2013. The only one I could afford was at Harbor Freight for like $30. I figured if it got me through this job, I'm good. It even came with extra motor brushes. Ha ha.

I'm still using it today!

Exactly, mine is the variable speed HF (with extra brushes - which seemed weird), it was "Chicago Electric" brand back then (2015, I marked the box, not sure what I paid though, something like $20-$30?), I think it is the same as the "Warrior" they sell now.

Two - semi-funny stories.

1) It *is* perfect for undercutting door molding when doing flooring. I helped DD and son-in-law with new flooring in their 'nursery' room. DD seemed to remember that I had the hand-saw version of the saw made for under-cutting door trim (it has no kerf on the flat side, and the handle is angled up so you can get your hand in there and cut flush to the floor). Since she asked me, my mind focused on that hand flush-cut saw, and I said "Yes, I'll be sure to bring it". Well, son-in-law got the job of under-cutting the molding, and early on, he hit a nail (easy to do), so the saw was dull, and it was a lot of frustrating work to finish the remaining trim. I felt sorry for him, but I sure wasn't going to lay on the floor and do that job! The cutting/fitting was already hard on my old knees.

When I got home, it hit me that I had that power oscillating tool, and extra blades. It would have made quick work of that job. I told DD, but said, don't tell him, I feel bad now!

2) Those extra brushes - I was surprised they included them. Well, I tested the saw out on some scrap when I first got it, satisfied it worked OK, and put it away for quite a while. When I did have a use for it, it cr@pped out and started acting really erratic after just another minute of use. I noticed sparking by the brushes - geez, is *that* why they include brushes, do they wear out in 10 minutes??!! That's what I get for buying cheap HF cr@p!

I get it apart, brushes aren't worn - so what's up? Bad spring? Hmmm. Nope, there was a little burr on the brush holder, and the brush was hanging up on that burr. A little sanding/filing, and it's been fine. I still have those brushes in a bag taped to the box.

-ERD50

 

[JoeWras]

1) It *is* perfect for undercutting door molding when doing flooring. I helped DD and son-in-law with new flooring in their 'nursery' room. DD seemed to remember that I had the hand-saw version of the saw made for under-cutting door trim (it has no kerf on the flat side, and the handle is angled up so you can get your hand in there and cut flush to the floor). Since she asked me, my mind focused on that hand flush-cut saw, and I said "Yes, I'll be sure to bring it". Well, son-in-law got the job of under-cutting the molding, and early on, he hit a nail (easy to do), so the saw was dull, and it was a lot of frustrating work to finish the remaining trim. I felt sorry for him, but I sure wasn't going to lay on the floor and do that job! The cutting/fitting was already hard on my old knees.

When I got home, it hit me that I had that power oscillating tool, and extra blades. It would have made quick work of that job. I told DD, but said, don't tell him, I feel bad now!

Those under-cut hand saws are now museum pieces.

The nice thing about using the multi-tool is you put a blade in there that is robust enough to cut through brads. We're always cutting through nails. Only in the fake DYI TV world of 1995 did people never hit a nail with their hand saw. Carpenters shoot brads like Al Capone machine gunned down enemies.

 

[5Miler]

I have installed Smart Switches through most of my home over the years for use in controlling lights and other AC components via Home Assistant and Amazon Alexa voice control. The early versions had an issue where they would just start flashing the LED on the switch and not respond to any control, not even manual use of the switch. I have had a couple fail in the past and usually just call for warranty replacement as the warranty was increased from 2 years to 5 years.

Just had another one fail over the weekend for my backyard flood light but even the extended warranty expired as the date code showed it over 7 years old. Since GOOGLE is my friend after all, I found that the failing component had been identified by another user so I decided to give that fix a whirl. I had to completely disassemble the switch and unsolder connections between two boards that were sandwiched together to finally reach the suspect 10 microfarad 25 volt electrolytic capacitor in the relay circuit. Ran to Microcenter to invest 99 cents on the correct capacitor and succeeded in repairing my $30 switch. Think I'll order a few spare capacitors as I know I still have a handful of early version switches installed that have fallen off of warranty.

This is the switch in question also sold by Ultrapro and others but manufactured by Jasco.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighte...id=1691453217&sprefix=ge+z-wave,aps,99&sr=8-1

 

[NW-Bound]

... I had to completely disassemble the switch and unsolder connections between two boards that were sandwiched together to finally reach the suspect 10 microfarad 25 volt electrolytic capacitor in the relay circuit. Ran to Microcenter to invest 99 cents on the correct capacitor and succeeded in repairing my $30 switch...

Congrats on your little triumph. Nowadays, most people don't know how to do small repairs like that.

It sounded like it took a bit of work to "un sandwich" the boards. My switches are made (sold?) under the brand name of KASA. When one fails, I will remember to poke around on the Web to pick up any repair tip.

 

[ERD50]

Those under-cut hand saws are now museum pieces. ...

I'll be sure to put that on my list for my kids for if/when they have to clear our house out: "This saw is worth something, don't just toss it out or give it away. I was told it belongs in a museum!"

- ERD50

 

[ERD50]

.... I had to completely disassemble the switch and unsolder connections between two boards that were sandwiched together to finally reach the suspect 10 microfarad 25 volt electrolytic capacitor in the relay circuit. ...

That's good work, I'm not so good at tearing that stuff apart and getting it back together again. I had a combination light switch fan speed controller where the light switch was arcing. I got it apart and was able to identify the contact, and I'm sure I could have got it cleaned up, and tweaked the spring for more solid contact, but it was all molded, riveted, and glued, so it was a mess by the time I got it apart.

My main incentive is that I read a lot of reviews complaining about the same problem on the replacements, but so far so good.

-ERD50

 

[euro]

Started a small job and realized that it was going to take me at least half a day to do the part I was working on. I have nearly every tool known to man, so I thought about what I could use to speed things up but drew a blank. Then I remembered a new tool I bought a coupe of years ago but never used. Hauled it out and finished the job in ten minutes. It seemed like magic the way it was so perfectly suited to the task.

I had always heard a lot of good things about the Bosch oscillating multitool, but couldn't think of anything I would need it for. Extremely glad I broke down and got one!

I agree - this thing is a must have tool. Amazing what you can do with it. Only downside: very noisy!

 

[DAYDREAMER]

My beloved 1996 Ram 2500 with 12 valve cummins has had a minor coolant leak in the front corner head gasket since i've owned the truck (bought yr 2000). The task to fix always seemed too daunting, do to the injection and compression pressures involved in diesel motors. Decided to put on my big boy pants and tackle the project to replace head gasket.

Head removal/gasket replacement required a deeper understanding of the engine function, so, internet and service manual digging I went. The hardest part of any project is taking the first step, so....I leaped off the cliff. Started removing parts, and if i didn't understand how they functioned, I researched. Removed the head using BIG BOY tools (lifts/breaker bars). Took the head to machine shop for surfacing/valve grind, at which time minor cracks were found in the valve seats. Decided since this is such a big job, and minor cost increase, i bought a new head assembly. Reassembled the monster, using all my newly learned knowledge. The proof of success .....will the motor start? Guess what-----IT RAN! Motor runs perfectly. I now have the ability and knowledge base to tackle beyond beginner level engine repair.

This project has been such an exciting, challenging, scary, BIG BOY task I have tackled since retiring. I love retirement.

 

[Yipper]

CONGRATULATIONS!!! that's a big job! ^^^^

 

[5Miler]

Congrats on your little triumph. Nowadays, most people don't know how to do small repairs like that.

It sounded like it took a bit of work to "un sandwich" the boards. My switches are made (sold?) under the brand name of KASA. When one fails, I will remember to poke around on the Web to pick up any repair tip.

I've seen the KASA products but I'm trying to limit my range of different manufacturers as my electronics ecosystem is getting out of hand. Mine run on Z-Wave but I do have a handful of TP-Link products that run on wi-fi along with a few Hue bulbs. Thinking of picking up a Hot Air Station to aid in some of my soldering work. Some are pretty [-]cheap[/-] inexpensive these days and I can see where one would have made my last few repairs a lot easier.

Beside, I need a new toy. Might just pick up one of the electronic microscopes to go with it. Prices seem to be really coming down on both items.

 

[5Miler]

My beloved 1996 Ram 2500 with 12 valve cummins has had a minor coolant leak in the front corner head gasket since i've owned the truck (bought yr 2000). The task to fix always seemed too daunting, do to the injection and compression pressures involved in diesel motors. Decided to put on my big boy pants and tackle the project to replace head gasket.

Head removal/gasket replacement required a deeper understanding of the engine function, so, internet and service manual digging I went.

While GOOGLE is our friend when searching for information, I sure miss the days when I could get my hands on a full Chilton's manual for auto repairs. In somewhere around 1975, my new wife and I managed to blow the rings in my 1972 Mustang. Not that impressive of a Mustang as it was a 6 banger. Being a poor 2 striper in the Air Force, I couldn't afford to take it in for repairs or buy a new car.

I worked part time at a full service Sunoco gas station and the owner let me use a bay for my repairs. Along with two of my buddies who also knew absolutely nothing about car repairs, we got our hands on the fat Chilton's manual and in three days reading each step along the way, tore that engine down, had the head machined next door, and put it all together again. I'm not saying we didn't make a mistake or two along the way but fortunately we discovered and remedied them before it was too late. That was the day we learned the importance of a ring groove scraper. Ran that Mustang for many more years until I gave it to my wife in the divorce. Rumor has it she blew the engine up a few years later as she was a bit of a lead foot.

Transferred to Germany in 1978 and bought an old Capri that had blown rings (what are the odds) and did the same repairs again, only by myself in the base auto hobby shop. Once more in over my head. Ran fine until I sold it when I transferred back stateside in 1981. I looked for a similar Chilton's manual for my 2001 Silverado but they just aren't as available as they used to be. Thank goodness for youtube I suppose.

 

[NW-Bound]

... Thinking of picking up a Hot Air Station to aid in some of my soldering work... Might just pick up one of the electronic microscopes to go with it. Prices seem to be really coming down on both items.

Heh heh heh... I have been thinking of the same thing.

 

[NW-Bound]

Replacing TPMS...

My 2020 Equinox just complained of missing the pressure reading of one tire. Replacing the sensor on the wheel is not hard, but I need to break the bead on the tire. There are ways to break the bead without a tire changer, but I have not done it myself.

I am a reasonably hardcore DIY'er (have rebuilt 3 engines in my youth, plus numerous lesser repairs), but have never messed with tires. For this job, the only special tool I will need is a TPMS triggering tool which goes for $9.

Do you think I should do the TPMS myself, or take it to Costco? Cost difference should be between $30 for DIY and less than $100 at Costco (my guess). It's not the money as much as learning something, but if it's too messy and tiring then I should not bother (as I am getting old).

 

[JoeWras]

Replacing TPMS...

I can't help you, but I hope you keep us posted because I have two valve leakers myself. It requires replacing the valve and TPMS. I'd love to hear your ultimate experience. I've read about people who break the bead. "Piece of cake" they say. I'm not so sure! I have a hard enough time with my bike tires.

 

[gutterman]

I changed the valve on a 12" trailer tire and had to break the bead to do it. I used a 2x10 12' long, my car, and a short section of 2x4 wood. I made a lever with the fulcrum being the short 2x4 pushing down on the tire bead, the short end of the lever my car, and me pushing down the long end of the lever. I almost lifted my car off the ground which wasn't all that hard to do. The bead broke loose at that point. I had to do it again a year later on the other trailer tire.



The interesting part was getting the bead back in place. I used a ratchet strap around the perimeter of the tire. I kept tightening the strap until it just popped back.



If you can rebuild an engine you can do this. Not too sure if a bigger tire would be harder? When I did mine I just figured I would take the tire and rim to a shop if I failed.

 

[bjorn2bwild]

Breaking the bead on one side is not too hard, I'm sure there are youtube videos for guidance.

The simplest method I have used involved using a floor jack and a nylon web tie down strap underneath the front wheels and cinched tight to the rim - Jack to pop the bead.