Another car puzzle

Well I did end up removing the negative battery cable which made the 24 and 41 codes go away. It also cleared the trip odometer

I didn't think of it when you first mentioned it, but some factory car stereos reset when you disconnect the battery requiring a code to unlock the security protection. Hopefully that's not an issue for you.

My wife's previous car (1997 Jetta) would honk the horn every time I reconnected the battery cable. Always scared me silly, with my head right down near the car horn.

the weird thing now is that after erasing the codes, the car seems to be getting normal gas mileage again.

I suppose there could have been a glitch in the computer that resetting might have solved. Works with many computer based devices.

Another possibility, when some sensors fail, the ECU will revert to a "fail safe" mode so you can still drive the car. So you may see the problem reappear after you have driven it a few hundred miles.
 
How are you calculating MPG?
Using the vehicle's computer?
Or filling the gas tank to full, recording the odometer reading, driving a couple hundred miles, refilling the tank to full, then manually calculating gallons used over the miles driven?
 
...

Anyway, the weird thing now is that after erasing the codes, the car seems to be getting normal gas mileage again. It may be a bit early to tell, so I'm going to watch it over the next day or two and see. Maybe there was a stuck setting and the ECU reset cleared it somehow?

Possible. You may want to reschedule your mechanic, to give it a few weeks or a few tankfuls, or whatever.

For some logical thinking behind the "stuck codes", I recall how our van from that era would work. We'd have a dead battery occasionally, the kids were small and sometimes would not get the door shut all the way, and we wouldn't notice the dome lights were on, and that would drain the battery.

Well every time that happened, the van would run just awful, it would take about 5 miles of driving for things to settle in, and maybe another 20~50 for it to be back to normal. It was so bad, sometimes dying at a stop sign, that DW always wanted me to take it out for her and get it running right. What happens, is it loses the settings that it had 'learned' that keep it running well, and it takes a while to re-learn those.

Perhaps your sensors were acting up, and your car 'learned' a setting that worked with a faulty sensor, so it seems to run OK, but with bad gas mileage? And be disconnecting the battery, the settings are back to factory default, which is maybe closer to 'normal' than the learned bad settings?

If that's the case, that sensor is probably going to go bad again. But it might be worth waiting, your mechanic will have trouble finding an intermittent problem. Though, just shotgunning it and replacing the sensor might not be a bad idea, depending on the cost to do that, and if you have a good idea which sensor.

-ERD50
 
It’s just a piece of equipment.

I usually guess just for fun ...

1. MAF or related - read, watch YouTube videos for your specific model, remove intake components to get yo the sensor, spray out with MAF sensor solvent ... NOT brake or other solvents.

2. O2 sensor(s) ... they pop codes a lot ...

Fuel system sounds like it is being told to go richer ...

MAF cleaning first, then ...
 
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How are you calculating MPG?
Using the vehicle's computer?
Or filling the gas tank to full, recording the odometer reading, driving a couple hundred miles, refilling the tank to full, then manually calculating gallons used over the miles driven?

Heh. 1993's don't calculate MPG for you.

I'm using the latter approach. Currently my mechanic appointment is Thursday, so I won't have enough reason to drive a couple hundred miles between now and then.

But the difference between normally good MPGs and the problem MPGs was so obvious that it sure looks like it's "fixed" for now.

@mountainsoft, no trouble with the stereo or the security system. Oddly enough my radio presets survived the loss of power.

@ERD50, yeah, I'm going to call them tomorrow and will probably cancel the appointment for now. If the problem recurs I'll just reschedule. You're right that I don't want him shotgunning an intermittent problem that may have gone away for the time being.

At this point I'd rather wait for the problem to recur, hopefully with a new code and/or engine light. If that happens, then I may try MAF cleaner or just having the mechanic replace the probably-intermittently-failing sensor.

Thanks again all.
 
Possible thermostat problem causing the choke to stay open and run rich all the time?
 
Fyi, running rich is a default response to many sensor issues. I ve heard lots of people say “hey my CE light is on but my car has more power!” Of course the LYBM crowd notices the drop in fuel economy instead.
 
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