Car Maintenance:2018 Audi Q5

[mystang52]

I'm coming up on 40,000 miles for my 2018 Q5. Among other things routine maintenance includes changing the transmission fluid and brake fluid.
Based on Youtube I can just use a turkey baster to remove the old brake fluid and then just pour in fresh fluid. That sure seems easy enough; any reason I cannot do that?
Should I just pay the premium price to have my dealer change the transmission fluid, or can I trust Aamco or similar specialty shop?

I knew, when I bought my Audi, that maintenance costs will be pricey. But if
some maintenance jobs are standard, I see no reason to pay the dealer their significantly higher charges.

 

[Dtail]

I don't have an Audi, but have a BMW and have gone to a standard dealer and a BMW dealer. Not sure who I like or trust more just yet.

 

[Montecfo]

As a longtime owner of BMWs my philosophy is to avoid the dealer(very high coats) and avoid generic garages (questionable quality). I prefer to find an honest mechanic with specialty in German cars and with a reasonable shop labor rate and take my cars there. I am very happy with my mechanic.

 

[slk320]

If you want to flush/change the fluid in the lines and brake calipers as well, you will need to bleed the brakes at the calipers as well. Lots of good info on the Audi enthusiast forums.

Not a hard job, just tedious. If you do not have a power bleeder you will need a second person to press the brake pedal during the bleeding process.

Chuck

 

[Car-Guy]

I've never owned or worked on an Audi so my comments are "generalized" for most cars... First I'd question needing to change brake fluid at 2yrs/40k miles. Seems early to me, but if it makes you feel better go for it... It's not hard to DIY but a specialty brake shop should be able to do the job as good or better and cheaper than a stealership. (Not a typo) IMO if you don't bleed the lines you are only doing half the job. Turkey basters won't do that...

Changing the automatic transmission fluid at 40k is a good idea... I usually change mine at 50k miles and it's also an easy DIY job. But again, a good transmission shop should be able to do the job as good or better and cheaper.... IMO, don't take shortcuts on changing the transmission fluid... Use only the manufactures recommend fluid types and change the filter too. And don't try to reuse gaskets like they were dryer sheets . New gaskets are cheap enough.

If you don't want to take your car to brake and transmission specialty shops, any good reputable auto repair shop should be able to do both. It's not rocket science.

 

[Montecfo]

It's not rocket science but competence still matters. A coworker took her Honda SUV to a brand name national quick oil change place.

They had one job: change the oil.

They did it halfway. They drained the old oil.

They also ended up buying her a new engine.

My point is even seemingly simple auto maintenance tasks can be screwed up royally by poorly managed shops.

 

[Car-Guy]

It's not rocket science but competence still matters. A coworker took her Honda SUV to a brand name national quick oil change place.

They all make mistakes from time to time.... That's another reason why I do my own work.... (I realize everyone can't do that) At least if it's done wrong, I know who to blame.

 

[Tractor guy]

As a longtime owner of BMWs my philosophy is to avoid the dealer(very high coats) and avoid generic garages (questionable quality). I prefer to find an honest mechanic with specialty in German cars and with a reasonable shop labor rate and take my cars there. I am very happy with my mechanic.

+1 for this. My shop is about 2/3 the price of the dealer & will tell me when he doesn't need to do something. For example, he checked the water level in my brake fluid and told me I didn't need to change it in my Mercedes at 50K miles (2 years). He changed it a year or two later.

I asked around my office to find this shop. Talk to people with German cars.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

It's possible to "gravity bleed" brakes if you don't have the tools or an assistant. Just open a bleeder valve (start at the back wheels) and let it drain for 15 minutes or so (less time for the front wheels). Start with a reservoir full of fresh fluid and top it up when it starts getting low. I usually buy a quart of Valvoline DOT 4 synthetic fluid and run about two-thirds of it through the rear calipers, then flush the front brakes with the final third.

If you have an assistant work the pedal, ask them not to push the pedal all the way to the floor when pumping the brakes. There may be debris on the brake piston rod that has accumulated outside the rod's normal range of travel, and you don't want that stuff getting into the rubber seal.

A lot of the German manufacturers call for brake fluid change every two years. It's probably overkill, but they're a safety-minded lot that has to comply with German and EU regs.

Ironically, the same mfrs were big on "lifetime" transmission fluid for a number of years. It's good that they're getting away from that, but Audi/VW doesn't make ATF service easy. Check out this video:

 

[Montecfo]

+1 for this. My shop is about 2/3 the price of the dealer & will tell me when he doesn't need to do something. For example, he checked the water level in my brake fluid and told me I didn't need to change it in my Mercedes at 50K miles (2 years). He changed it a year or two later.

I asked around my office to find this shop. Talk to people with German cars.

When vetting shops I find it useful to ask their shop labor rate. I began doing this when my then favorite shop wanted to charge me approximately double what another shop I had vetted bid to change a head gasket on a prior BMW. I changed shops right there and then.

 

[mystang52]

OP here. I won't do anything close-to-complex car repairs. My understanding, re: brake fluid replacement, is that they do not bleed the system, just replace the fluid in the reservoir. So, I figure I could do that. I wouldn't even think of trying the transmission fluid myself.

 

[OldShooter]

If you want to flush/change the fluid in the lines and brake calipers as well, you will need to bleed the brakes at the calipers as well. ...

This. With the amplification that the bleeding, usually done just to get air out of the lines, has to be enough to flush all of the old brake fluid out of the system.

Why? DOT 4 brake fluid, recommended for that car, is hygroscopic. It absorbs water. As water is absorbed, the boiling point of the fluid goes down. In extreme situations this can cause the fluid to actually boil. These are situations you will almost certainly never see in a street car, but the water also can lead to corrosion in the brake lines and calipers. The point here being that all of the old fluid has to be gone. Not just the old fluid in the reservoir that you get with your turkey baster but also all the old fluid in the lines and calipers. If you have someone in the car pumping the brake pedal be absolutely certain that the reservoir level is kept high enough that no air can be sucked into the system. Also be sure to attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose submerged in a clear glass container where you can observe the fluid being ejected, make sure that there are no bubbles in the system, and make sure that no air is sucked back when the pedal is released.

An alternative is to use a vacuum brake bleed kit, making it a one man job. The caveat about not letting the reservoir get low still applies. Looking at Amazon there seem to be hundreds of $20 kits, most of which look scary to me. I think the kit I have, left over from racing days, is a MityVac like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITM...hild=1&keywords=Vacuum+Bleeder&qid=1603207854 Note the metal pump.

Oh, and brake fluid is kind of nasty stuff. I have gotten a rash on my hands from working with it, and it will strip at least some paints.

 

[Ian S]

You really want a complete brake fluid flush done so just replacing the master cylinder fluid won't cut it. I've worked on my own cars including a couple of Audis but stopped about 10 years ago - really didn't have the urge to get under a car any more or even down on the floor next to it. My current car, a Genesis Coupe has been fully dealer serviced since new. Dealer oil changes were as cheap as any others so why go elsewhere and it was easier to prove proper service in case the 10 yr 100,000 mile power train warranty had to be invoked. If you are out of warranty on your Audi and don't want to use the dealer, I'd suggest finding a good independent VW/Audi service tech for the work.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

This. With the amplification that the bleeding, usually done just to get air out of the lines, has to be enough to flush all of the old brake fluid out of the system.

Why? DOT 4 brake fluid, recommended for that car, is hygroscopic. It absorbs water. As water is absorbed, the boiling point of the fluid goes down. In extreme situations this can cause the fluid to actually boil. These are situations you will almost certainly never see in a street car, but the water also can lead to corrosion in the brake lines and calipers. The point here being that all of the old fluid has to be gone. Not just the old fluid in the reservoir that you get with your turkey baster but also all the old fluid in the lines and calipers. If you have someone in the car pumping the brake pedal be absolutely certain that the reservoir level is kept high enough that no air can be sucked into the system. Also be sure to attach a clear plastic hose to the bleed nipple with the other end of the hose submerged in a clear glass container where you can observe the fluid being ejected, make sure that there are no bubbles in the system, and make sure that no air is sucked back when the pedal is released.
...

Years ago I helped DMiL pick out a used car and found a nice Acura Integra coupe that had obviously been sitting somewhere for quite some time. After we bought it I took it home to freshen fluids and such. I braked down from highway speed a few times to test the brakes, and by the third time the car developed severe brake fade -- a classic symptom of water in the brake fluid boiling off. I flushed the system with fresh fluid and all was well.

BTW, if you have an air compressor my "poor man's pressure bleeder" might work for you. I get a spare reservoir cap, drill a hole in the middle and install an air hose coupling or Schraeder valve. I fill the reservoir to capacity with fresh fluid, dial down the pressure on the air compressor to 10-15 psi and hook up the hose to the fitting on the cap. After opening a bleeder valve I keep a close eye on the fluid level in the reservoir as the air pressure pushes fluid through the system pretty efficiently.

 

[FIREd]

My 2017 Audi will reach the 40,000-mile mark in the next couple of months. I plan to pay the premium to have the dealership service the vehicle.

 

[travelover]

My 2017 Audi will reach the 40,000-mile mark in the next couple of months. I plan to pay the premium to have the dealership service the vehicle.

Good idea. Be sure to tip the mechanic and the service writer.

 

[ls99]

A slight tangent, hopefully useful.
Yesterday, on my 99 suburban, after 20 years had my favorite mechanic shop replace the flexible brake lines to the wheels and rear axle. Old hoses have a bad habit of bursting at the least convenient times and places..

Naturally this involves replacing all the brake fluid which leaks out once the brake lines are removed. This means, first brake fluid change in 20 years and around 140000 miles.

After the hoses replacement the system was filled with brake fluid, one mech climbed in and pumping brake the other bleading each brake cylinder. After a half hour still not done.

The problem was, a device called the proportioning valve (divvies up the braking line pressure between front and rear brake cylinders) got stuck when the system became empty of fluid. Eventually they got the valve unstuck (did not need replacing, it just happens to stick in empty systems) and got all the system bled. A test drive to verify functioning and the suburban was returned to me.

I am sure glad I did not try to do it myself. As Roseanna Rosana Dana was fond of saying, there is always something. Happily paid the man.

 

[ER2B]

I have a 2017 Acura MDX with a German made 9 speed automatic transmission. No problem with bleeding the brakes as I have a vacuum bleeder. The ATF is another issue as the stealership wants $600 for a flush and fill. I will be at 50k pretty soon and I am learning as much as I can to do it myself. I'll need an ATF temperature gauge which will cost me about $150 but at least it'll be a one time expense. Procedure should be similar to an Audi.

 

[eytonxav]

You very likely have a local Audi enthusiasts group near you (check facebook or one of the Audi Forums). While Audi dealer prices are high, there is apt to be a local Audi specialty shop that could do this much cheaper and I would check with the local group for a recommended shop. That said, unless the fluid is dirty or has a burnt smell or is very low, you may not really need to change it for another couple of years.

 

[Scrapr]

Good idea. Be sure to tip the mechanic and the service writer.

Is that a "thing"? I haven't done it at the dealership. I figured the hourly rate was big enough that it was not needed. I like the service writer. Never seen the mechanic

 

[jimbee]

Is that a "thing"? I haven't done it at the dealership. I figured the hourly rate was big enough that it was not needed. I like the service writer. Never seen the mechanic

I think a sarcasm tag was implied.

 

[NateW]

For the brake fluid flush, the master cylinder, ABS pump, all brake lines and calipers must be flushed. I use a Motive power bleeder on my 2004 VW Jetta. The Motive is fairly inexpensive. If you do decide to perform a brake fluid flush, please look in the shop manual for the sequence. For VAG (Volkswagen Auto Group) vehicles, the wheel position you begin the flushing sequence depends on the brake system manufacturer (it could be the left rear or the left front). At least this was true of VWs around the 2005 model year. Also, if the brake fluid resovoir runs dry and the master cylinder draws in air, a dealer scan tool (or the VCDS scan tool that emulates the VAG scan tool) must be used to activate the antilock brake system pump in order to purge all the air.

 

[Scrapr]

I think a sarcasm tag was implied.

whoosh....