New Camry purchase

[GTFan]

Why wouldn't TCS kick in to prevent wheel spin?

 

[Bamaman]

My rear tires are making noise--out of alignment. 225-60-18 tires for mid size SUV's are incredibly expensive, but there must be 100 different tires on the retail market.

I better turn up the radio, and start feeding my piggy bank. Dealer wants $139 for a 4 wheel alignment, but Pep Boys and NTC get $99.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

I know how much torque Synergy Drive can produce -- we own a Prius. It has the traction control option, although I think all Synergy equipped vehicles have some degree of traction buffering because the sudden shift from zero traction (ice patch) to total traction (bare ground) would deliver a serious shock to the drivetrain because of the electric drive's instant torque.

If you're ever in the market for tires, I find Continental to have some great true "all-season" designs, particularly the DWS06. The PureContact line is also good. In either case, you won't get 80K miles out of them -- the rubber compounds are a little on the soft side so they can maintain traction in temperatures below 40 degrees. And you won't be able to corner like Earnhardt on a hot summer day.

I've always purchased tires with an aim to the worst possible conditions in which they have to perform. Bridgestone, Goodyear, Michelin and others make direct competitors to the Conti DWS -- Michelin's CrossClimate line looks promising, although I'm more of a Continental loyalist. Do your research, and don't go out there on hockey pucks!

 

[ProspectiveBum]

If your vehicle is still safe to drive and reliable for your needs, I would hang on to it. Now is probably the worst time decades to be buying a new vehicle.

I agree. DD (17) is driving a hand-me-down Honda Odyssey with 215K miles on the clock. It threw an airbag code a couple of months ago, and I started contemplating buying something newer to replace it due to the safety concerns, and my expectation that any airbag replacement would be eye-wateringly expensive. After finding absolutely nothing available at even close to a reasonable price, we took it to the dealership and were told that it was a 1-time code, possibly related to a drained battery at the time. They cleared the code and it hasn't come back. That was $139 well-spent, and hopefully, by the time we need to replace it the car market will be back to normal.

 

[brett]

We live in the snow belt. Our cars have always been FWD because those are the models we have wanted to purchase.

Never had an issue. Never an accident. We have lived and worked in Canadian snow belt areas for 50 plus years

We see two huge problems with winter driving. The first is people who simply do not understand how to drive in winter, nor do they understand how they can use their automatic transmission selections to manage slipping or reducing speed on ice or snow.

Second is people with AWD vehicles, especially ones with high centers of gravity such as smaller SUVs, who seem to think that they are immune to the elements. Ice, black is a danger for everyone no matter what they happen to be driving.

These vehicles, when driven on black ice, etc, give inexperienced drivers a very false sense of security. When we travel along a major highway in our area post snow or ice storms it is the smaller SUVs that tend to litter and be stuck in the medians and roadsides. These are also the ones that we see turned over on their sides or roofs.

 

[Koolau]

We live in the snow belt. Our cars have always been FWD because those are the models we have wanted to purchase.

Never had an issue. Never an accident. We have lived and worked in Canadian snow belt areas for 50 plus years

We see two huge problems with winter driving. The first is people who simply do not understand how to drive in winter, nor do they understand how they can use their automatic transmission selections to manage slipping or reducing speed on ice or snow.

Second is people with AWD vehicles, especially ones with high centers of gravity such as smaller SUVs, who seem to think that they are immune to the elements. Ice, black is a danger for everyone no matter what they happen to be driving.

These vehicles, when driven on black ice, etc, give inexperienced drivers a very false sense of security. When we travel along a major highway in our area post snow or ice storms it is the smaller SUVs that tend to litter and be stuck in the medians and roadsides. These are also the ones that we see turned over on their sides or roofs.

I agree with this assessment of AWD. You really have to know how to use it. We decided our AWD Subaru could get the "uninitiated" into trouble much faster than the brakes could get them out of it. This was proven by the next owner who totaled it in the snow. She couldn't stop even though I'd warned her of the potential danger. YMMV

 

[kgtest]

We live in the snow belt. Our cars have always been FWD because those are the models we have wanted to purchase.

Never had an issue. Never an accident. We have lived and worked in Canadian snow belt areas for 50 plus years

We see two huge problems with winter driving. The first is people who simply do not understand how to drive in winter, nor do they understand how they can use their automatic transmission selections to manage slipping or reducing speed on ice or snow.

Second is people with AWD vehicles, especially ones with high centers of gravity such as smaller SUVs, who seem to think that they are immune to the elements. Ice, black is a danger for everyone no matter what they happen to be driving.

These vehicles, when driven on black ice, etc, give inexperienced drivers a very false sense of security. When we travel along a major highway in our area post snow or ice storms it is the smaller SUVs that tend to litter and be stuck in the medians and roadsides. These are also the ones that we see turned over on their sides or roofs.

Good point. I have seen many avoidable snow related traffic incidents where someone either over reacted or under reacted. There is that sweet spot where you have just enough room in between you and the other drivers.

I realize this is a terrible time to buy a vehicle. But I'm not convinced a month or even a year from now in terms of supply will be any better then today. In terms of price, my understanding is a dollar today is worth less than a dollar yesterday.

Another reason is I came into a little cash recently and could use the depreciation for my business and might actually be able to get a decent amount for the used car I sell.

25k plus tax new from the manufacturer. I can get a $500 military veteran credit. Then if I deduct the sales tax on my tax return via business deductions and then sell this old car for 4 or 5k I am looking at a $21k vehicle that I can put about 6 to 12k cash down on with the remaining 9k to 15k financed at 1.89% I'll put the $500 in tax reductions towards the purchase price and its really $8,500 to 14,500 financed at a fairly great rate. Interest rates on the rise but I can likely pay it all off within a year.

Maybe no time is a decent time to buy a car but if I finance at 1.89 and put any extra cash in the market it becomes the same fundament debate of pay the mortgage (note) off or not. If the market cant beat 1.89% returns I'll pay myself by eliminating the note.

Plus DW car passed 200k miles. Its the highest amount of.miles we have ever had on a vehicle.

 

[Jim59]

I would suggest you get the car serviced and repairs carried out to the other few items. As you say the car drives fine, regular service will put double those miles on it. No need for another car.

 

[kingkarmann]

In the current situation there is no way I would purchase a new car unless mine burnt to the ground.
Even then I would probably bite the bullet and go with a CPO.
DW and I keep our cars much longer than the average. Hers is a 2005, mine is a 2012. Both are meticulously serviced by me or my trustworthy mechanic.
I would even go as far as having major component parts like drivetrains or suspension's replaced. As long as they are safe and reliable with no structural issues I have no problems driving older cars.
To me it would make much more sense dropping $10-$12K in a comprehensive repair/overhaul vs. $50k+ on a decent new car.

 

[REWahoo]

In the current situation there is no way I would purchase a new car unless mine burnt to the ground.
Even then I would probably bite the bullet and go with a CPO.

You might want to reconsider. That same "current situation" has resulted in some CPO vehicles priced above the MSRP for that same vehicle sold new. Of course, good luck in finding a new one.

The auto market is a real mess...

 

[brett]

2006 Accord and 2007 Toyota Solara (Camry).

Both run like tops. Any thought of upgrading either has disappeared.

Both are like new. Barring any unforeseen events do not see any reason to replace either.

 

[Music Lover]

Gotta disagree on AWD. It's oversold in this country. Part of the issue is the mediocre tires manufacturers put on most new vehicles.

With good tires appropriate for the season, a front-wheel drive car can handle inclement weather as well as AWD -- and better than AWD running on badly-designed all-season tires.

AWD might be oversold in places where there is no snow, but I live in a winter climate and would never choose FWD over AWD. Yes, good tires on a FWD vehicle may outperform crappy tires on an AWD vehicle, but AWD will outperform FWD with similar tires every single time. And good tires on an AWD will outperform crappy tires on a FWD by a wide margin.

I have a set of dedicated winter tires, the all season tires are used in summer. IMO, that's the only way to go. Cost is minimal if you change them yourself (I do) as when you are using one set the other set isn't wearing.

 

[Accidental Retiree]

2006 Accord and 2007 Toyota Solara (Camry).

Both run like tops. Any thought of upgrading either has disappeared.

Both are like new. Barring any unforeseen events do not see any reason to replace either.

2004 Toyota Sequoia here. DH maintains it very well, both mechanically and cosmetically, and I expect to get at least another 125K miles on top of the 125k I already have.

There’s nothing new I’d rather drive.

 

[Texas Proud]

Sooooo, you say your wife is cheating her employer by driving extra miles that she does not need to in order to get a larger reimbursement check...


Got it.

 

[PaunchyPirate]

This morning I took my 2021 Highlander Hybrid into my Toyota dealer for its free 5000 mile service (tire rotation and checkover). I ran into the sales rep who sold it to me in late September of 2021. I live in a small town market. And I paid MSRP price (nothing was added on by the dealer).

He told me that they are still not tacking on any dealer add-on pricing or unnecessary features that you must pay for. He said his management just doesn't want to go down that path. But they are not selling anything below MSRP.

He also said the supply chain seems to be producing slightly more cars than it was in the last few months, but not by much. They currently have 120 "orders" for new cars. They have only been able to secure about 84 of them so far (from their regional factory allocation or by making swap deals with other dealers' allocations). He said there is a constant negotiation between the regional dealerships as they try to move cars around to match up to customers' specific desires.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

AWD might be oversold in places where there is no snow, but I live in a winter climate and would never choose FWD over AWD. Yes, good tires on a FWD vehicle may outperform crappy tires on an AWD vehicle, but AWD will outperform FWD with similar tires every single time. And good tires on an AWD will outperform crappy tires on a FWD by a wide margin.

I have a set of dedicated winter tires, the all season tires are used in summer. IMO, that's the only way to go. Cost is minimal if you change them yourself (I do) as when you are using one set the other set isn't wearing.

Diff'rnt strokes. AWD will help you go, but it won't help you stop.

 

[Music Lover]

Diff'rnt strokes. AWD will help you go, but it won't help you stop.

I know. But stopping is only part of winter driving.

 

[aja8888]

I know. But stopping is only part of winter driving.

Sometimes, that's the most important part!

 

[brett]

2004 Toyota Sequoia here. DH maintains it very well, both mechanically and cosmetically, and I expect to get at least another 125K miles on top of the 125k I already have.

There’s nothing new I’d rather drive.

Same here. We went to an Acura dealership a few years with the intent of buying that day.

Everything was perfect with the new Acura we were about to buy. Except one thing.

DW looked at me and asked what the issue was. I told her I preferred the vehicle I had already been driving for 10 plus years. We walked out. Good decision for me....I was not ready to buy. Money was not the issue.

 

[Koolau]

2006 Accord and 2007 Toyota Solara (Camry).

Both run like tops. Any thought of upgrading either has disappeared.

Both are like new. Barring any unforeseen events do not see any reason to replace either.

My 2012 Toyota has less than 100K as does my 2000 Buick. Also, I find I do not like the new "aggressive" styling on today's cars. I no longer recognize, for instance, a Honda Civic. What's up with all the crazy head and tail lights and all the gee-gaws around the grills of today's cars? They look like space ships - and not in a good way IMHO. YMMV

 

[Cobra59]

It's a very common practice to upsell as many services as possible, even if they are not needed. Brakes + plugs + shocks + struts + brake & coolant flush + fuel injector cleaning, all at once? I would have these checked by a trusted independent mechanic. Preferably you're following the recommended maintenance schedule.

On the other hand, used cars are being sold for very high prices these days. You might be shocked at how much your car is worth, without doing any of these things. Get a bid from carmax or places like that.

Not sure the high price for used cars applies to a vehicle with 200k miles on it.

 

[Cobra59]

DWs old 2013 Camry LE 2.5l is starting to age. Just crossed the 200,000 mile mark.

I am super frustrated with the dealers. Every car I find online and I inquire about they state has not yet arrived, is already purchased by a customer, or is no longer available.

It is not the dealers that you should be frustrated with, it is the global supply chain that has been and continues to be very slow and backed up for a number of product categories (vehicles being one of them) for a number of reasons. Last year I waited 8 months for my new car to be ordered and delivered. This year, the wait for that same car is longer for many people.

 

[brett]

I had my last Camry for 17 years. Then my son had it for 2.

Always did Toyota service. I wrote off the car for business. The last time I took the car into Toyota they gave me a list of things. The total was $3100. I decided to buy an Acura. Never did.

Instead I asked around and find a private Toyota mechanic. Found one who was highly recommended and Toyota trained. Gave him that list. He told me what needed to be done. It came to $1600. All replacement parts were Toyota branded right down to the coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid. That was year 12. Drove the car for another 5 years after than....no issues, no repairs other than usual mtce.

Now our 2007 Solara and the 2006 Hondo goes to this private shop.

 

[Cobra59]

I had my last Camry for 17 years. Then my son had it for 2.

Always did Toyota service. I wrote off the car for business. The last time I took the car into Toyota they gave me a list of things. The total was $3100. I decided to buy an Acura. Never did.

Instead I asked around and find a private Toyota mechanic. Found one who was highly recommended and Toyota trained. Gave him that list. He told me what needed to be done. It came to $1600. All replacement parts were Toyota branded right down to the coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid. That was year 12. Drove the car for another 5 years after than....no issues, no repairs other than usual mtce.

Now our 2007 Solara and the 2006 Hondo goes to this private shop.

Or do the service yourself (or the part that you are comfortable with). The Lexus dealer quoted $150 for new air filter and cabin air filter. I said I would do it myself and ordered the parts from a Toyota dealer while in the Lexus service waiting room. Total cost with free shipping was $35, installed by me in 15 minutes. I also have a trusted independent mechanic that does the more complicated things or repairs that require special tools.

Dealership service department is a profit center (the largest profit center for some dealers). Not everything has to be done that they list.

 

[brett]

Or do the service yourself (or the part that you are comfortable with). The Lexus dealer quoted $150 for new air filter and cabin air filter. I said I would do it myself and ordered the parts from a Toyota dealer while in the Lexus service waiting room. Total cost with free shipping was $35, installed by me in 15 minutes. I also have a trusted independent mechanic that does the more complicated things or repairs that require special tools.

Dealership service department is a profit center (the largest profit center for some dealers). Not everything has to be done that they list.

I do exactly the same for my in cabin air filters. We also stopped with those service packages that highlight/include things like that and 'checking the car door locks and lubricating same'. Plus all the other nothings that show up on those lists to give the impression of a great deal of work for a great deal of money.

Or a 'road test'. Standard practice for my tech once he is ready to give the vehicle back to us or if he wants to double check a potential issue that we have raised.