Drain for yard. Fixed vs Flex

[Texas Proud]

We are having our yard beautified with stones etc. One of the things I want is a drain for the back yard.


So, a simple question... should we have them install flex pipe or ridged?


I am worried that the flex pipe will keep water as it is not straight and we will have more mosquitoes.... but I have no idea and am starting my research....


Comments are welcome..

 

[eytonxav]

Rigid pipe will flow better and be less subject to clogs, but is more expensive and more difficult to install.

 

[ChiliPepr]

Mosquitoes lay in standing water, even if you had some water left in the drain, the next rain would wash it (and any mosquito larvae) out.

 

[CRLLS]

More info please.....

What type of drain? Sump Pump? Yard drain? Roof Gutter drain? French drain? or?

Where is it draining to? Relocating the unwanted water to a lower area of the yard? Connecting to a city storm drain?

Fabric covered perforated flex pipe can be had. It should work for many applications. It keeps the dirt out of the pipe preventing mud dams. It would also allow the "standing" water in the corrugations of the pipe to drain to the ground when the ground is dry. If you need to get the drain away from the foundation, you could use hard pipe for the 1st 10 ft or so, then connect to flex pipe.

 

[Texas Proud]

Drain is for getting water from the back yard out of there... right now it is just a river flowing along the side of the house and at time I mean a river... takes a lot of soil away from the back yard...


In the future I am looking to add flow from downspouts to the system.... but for right now they will just flow into the yard and be picked up through the grate...

 

[Ronstar]

I would use the 4” perforated corrugated flexible black plastic pipe with fabric sock. That’s what I used for getting drainage out of a low area. I used non perforated corrugated near the house for downspout connections to keep drainage away from the house. There are all sorts of fittings, drainage inlets, etc made to fit the 4” corrugated pipe.

 

[Freedom56]

Drain is for getting water from the back yard out of there... right now it is just a river flowing along the side of the house and at time I mean a river... takes a lot of soil away from the back yard...


In the future I am looking to add flow from downspouts to the system.... but for right now they will just flow into the yard and be picked up through the grate...

We probably don't have as much rain as you do here, but when it does rain it's usually pretty heavy and for several days. We have an 8" ridged pipe drain running under both sides of our property to take water from behind our backyard to the street in the front. The 8" pipe tees off to two 4" ridged pipes under the sidewalks onto the street. If you have a "river" of water, you will need at least an 8" pipe. We connected our rain gutter downspouts to this 8" drain pipe using 4" ridged pipes and things work very well. We have no stagnant water anywhere during and after a storm. See the attached photos for some examples/ideas.

 

[ncbill]

For drain pipe, buried underground?

In my development we are still digging up original (now collapsed) flex pipe & replacing it with Schedule 40 PVC (can roto-rooter out the latter)

 

[Starsky]

Your "them" should be able to determine the proper type of pipe based on the type of drainage and the application. If they ask, your choice can be based on the cost and lifespan of the material and your budget. Given the considerable effort to install a good drainage system, scrimping on pipe would be a poor decision.

Proper installation is the most important element of a good drainage system - and the installers should let you know if/when there's a choice to be made.

 

[samclem]

Rigid. And with proper slope the entire way (generally considered to be 1/4" per foot). I would even make a point of checking the fall, where they can see you, at an early point of the process as the pipe is going in. Flexible pipe is faster and cheaper to install, the contractor may say it is "just as good," and it virtually assures that the pipe will have high and low points as it follows the bumpy contours of the bottom of the trench. Low points = trapped water and slow water (so the silt in it will drop out of suspension and clog up the pipe).

The big cost is in the digging. Don't try to save money on the pipe itself, and don't let them tell you that flex, with all its corrugation bumps that catch silt, thin walls that collapse, and up-and-down lay is "just as good."

 

[travelover]

I'd also go with rigid and I'd add a clean out so it can be snaked if needed at some future date. You can even leave the clean out plug buried slightly as long as you remember where it is located.

 

[Texas Proud]

OK, thanks... I think I will go ridged....


Now, I will have a straight shot from the main drain to the street, but I am going to extend the pipe to a different place in the yard... so I plan on a 45 off the straight, a short straight, another 45 to get it back 10 feet or so...



Now I have to decide if I should have a 90 and another 10 feet or do a 45 a short straight another 45 to make that turn less harsh....


Suggestions?

 

[ERD50]

...

Now I have to decide if I should have a 90 and another 10 feet or do a 45 a short straight another 45 to make that turn less harsh....


Suggestions?

Do two 45's instead of one 90. Absolutely. Not debatable. The downside is what, one extra piece? Versus less chance of a clog, and better flow?

Where's that "EASY BUTTON"?

-ERD50

 

[travelover]

Do two 45's instead of one 90. .........

Yes, and as mentioned a clean out access can be added at this point for less than $10. Could save a world of grief later.

 

[samclem]

Yes, I'd vote for two 45s. And of course you'll be using "long sweep" DWV fittings, not the tighter angles used for supply lines. +1 on putting in cleanouts to make things much easier later.

 

[Freedom56]

OK, thanks... I think I will go ridged....


Now, I will have a straight shot from the main drain to the street, but I am going to extend the pipe to a different place in the yard... so I plan on a 45 off the straight, a short straight, another 45 to get it back 10 feet or so...



Now I have to decide if I should have a 90 and another 10 feet or do a 45 a short straight another 45 to make that turn less harsh....


Suggestions?

I would keep the straight shot to the main drain to the street and use a "T" instead of a 45 for anything you want to connect at different points in your yard. If you are using 8" rigid pipes for the main drain, you can use a 8" to 4" T for other drains in your yard. Keep it simple.

 

[Texas Proud]

The main line is going to be 4 inch.... you cannot have any more as it needs to drain through the curb at the street.



Right now I am thinking about not putting in the extension to the other side of the back yard... I was out looking and I am not sure if there is going to be a need for it and also not sure of the slope... I can always add it later...



There are many tree roots in the way and I also know there are sprinkler lines that might be in the way.... if I am ridged something has to give if there is a conflict...


I will make sure there is a clean out installed... thanks all who suggested that... it did not cross my mind..

 

[samclem]

I installed a "curtain drain" to take away surface water, sounds like your project. One challenge , big or small depending on soil type, is keeping water moving toward the pipe as fines slowly block any screens, sock, or mesh filters over the years. I wound up using a system tested by the Army Corps of Engineers. Solid pipe with slits cut every 2 inches to let water in.
Set the pipe in a trench with coarse sand. Use coarse sand all the way to the surface, or put a little topsoil over it if grass is desired. Not much sand found its way into the pipe, and lack of a filter "sheet' keeps it from silting up solid right away.

 

[Texas Proud]

I installed a "curtain drain" to take away surface water, sounds like your project. One challenge , big or small depending on soil type, is keeping water moving toward the pipe as fines slowly block any screens, sock, or mesh filters over the years. I wound up using a system tested by the Army Corps of Engineers. Solid pipe with slits cut every 2 inches to let water in.
Set the pipe in a trench with coarse sand. Use coarse sand all the way to the surface, or put a little topsoil over it if grass is desired. Not much sand found its way into the pipe, and lack of a filter "sheet' keeps it from silting up solid right away.

Not quite what I am worried about. What I have is a normal back yard. When it rains all the water that lands in the back yard and runs off the roof in the back has only one direction to go, toward one side of the house.. it is about a 2 to 3 foot section that has significant water flow when it rains hard.... all I want to do is put in a drain box at the beginning of the section and pipe it out to the street...


Our neighbor has a bed of river rocks along the side of their house to stop the soil erosion... I will have this also, but want the drain to get the majority of rain if not all...

 

[pb4uski]

I recall that when they installed our septic system and the 4" sewer pipe from the house had to make a 90 degree turn they used a sweep that was about 3' around. I had never seen one before.

 

[Texas Proud]

Well, it is being dug right now... going with fixed pipe...


Funny that when they were digging they came across flex pipe in the ground that was filled with dirt....


Will get a few pics if I can before they close everything up... I have been out saying how I want the pipe to run and making sure I have the clean outs... the guy had bought a straight T instead of the curved one...

 

[Texas Proud]

OK... another question....


Should the pipes be glued?


Right now they are dry fitting, and they seem to be held together pretty well... since this is just water run off I do not know if we should have them glued or not...

 

[samclem]

Glue. Settling, backfill vibration, cleanout torque, cleanout pressure (hose, pressure washer, etc). Plus, with solvent in the joint it is easier to push the pieces fully into the seat, if you work fast. Why not "glue" (solvent)?

 

[pb4uski]

OK... another question....


Should the pipes be glued? ....

Yes. Easier in the long run to do it right rather than do it over.

 

[fidler4]

There is a guy in Florida that has a Youtube channel call Apple Drains. Apparently it rains occasionally in Florida so yard drainage is an issue. His videos are of the various yard drain install jobs his company does. https://www.youtube.com/user/appledrains