Polynesian islands

MuirWannabe

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DW & I are in the very early stages of planning a lengthy trip to the Polynesian islands and also probably adding 2-3 weeks in New Zealand. Most of my questions are about the islands. We are initially considering anytime in the Feb- Apr 2023 timeframe.

- is that a good time of year?
- which islands? We are thinking Bora Bora, Fiji, Nuku Hiva, Vava’u, and perhaps a couple others.
- activities? Snorkeling, local hiking for sure. But anything else we should be aware?
- great places to lodge? Or eat?
- best way to get around? Do you need car rental on islands? How to island hop? Better to take a cruise ship? We really probably prefer not a cruise ship.

We really know nothing about this corner of the world. Are there travel companies who specialize in trip planning for this area that you recommend?

Thanks for any advice. Consider me a sponge ready to listen and soak up your experience.

Muir
 
I would suggest using the Paul Gauguin. It is a very small cruise ship and it eliminates transportation between the islands. We have taken 2 cruises with the ship and are very happy with it.
I have attached the stories of the 2 cruises we took.
If you have any questions, we are happy to help.
 

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I would suggest using the Paul Gauguin. It is a very small cruise ship and it eliminates transportation between the islands. We have taken 2 cruises with the ship and are very happy with it.
I have attached the stories of the 2 cruises we took.
If you have any questions, we are happy to help.
Seconded, our cruise on the PG in 2009 was one of our favorite trips ever. We particularly love Rangiroa, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa. Bora Bora was nice, too, but not as remote. We got MUCH better quality carvings and black pearls for less on the smaller islands than the ones we saw in the big market in Pape'ete, which were of more uneven quality and yet a lot more expensive. (We didn't haggle, and offered a bit more for a few things because it felt like we were underpaying for such quality work and materials.) The PG staff worked with locals for tours, lectures, and shows, and the "kid's club" was run by two grad students in Marine Biology and had a lot of instructive activities, which our future STEM major LOVED. (Probably not applicable to you, but another favorable data point.)
 
We're going there in May of 23. Sailing on a boat with 100 others. Fiji, Bora Bora and a few others. DW has organized a of it so I'm just tagging along. We're using Windstar as we were impressed by their service in our cruise of Iceland.
 
We were there last January and the Society archipelago was pretty rainy at that time of year. We saw a lot, but a few days it was just heavy rain.

The Marquesas archipelago was dryer and a bit cooler at that time of year.

The area is vast and getting around can take quite some time.

The main archipelago is the Society Islands. Tahiti has most of the population. It’s the only really built up island - a mix blessing but worth seeing.

Bora Bora is the high end tourist island with lots of over the water bungalows. They are very pricey.

My favorite island in the Society island was Moorea. One of our guides described it as the garden suburb for Papeete with people taking the ferry between the islands. Development is restricted on that island. There’s an interesting University of California research station there too.

My other favorite island was Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas archipelago. Low population (just over 3000 people) and fewer English speakers, but a fascinating place. There’s only one hotel but many B&B type accommodations.

If you go there read Herman Melville’s Typee which his set on the island. Our guide was from the valley where most of the action in that book takes place. It was fun to explore.
 
I would suggest using the Paul Gauguin. It is a very small cruise ship and it eliminates transportation between the islands. We have taken 2 cruises with the ship and are very happy with it.
I have attached the stories of the 2 cruises we took.
If you have any questions, we are happy to help.


Thanks for the trip reports. I read both, and it looks like much fun was had. I’m still kinda stuck on a bias against cruising with this trip. I understand the Paul Gauguin is a smaller ship so that does help. Although you stated in the trip report it was being retired.

I just like the idea of staying on the islands. Perhaps one of those over the water bungalows on Bora Bora.

Your reports on the specific islands and activities were very helpful. There is much to consider.

Do you think the local guides you sometimes used were very important?
 
We're going there in May of 23. Sailing on a boat with 100 others. Fiji, Bora Bora and a few others. DW has organized a of it so I'm just tagging along. We're using Windstar as we were impressed by their service in our cruise of Iceland.


As I’m reading more, it appears May is the transition to the dryer months in the islands. Supposed to be a decent month to be there as it’s a shoulder month before the busy season. Maybe DW & I will consider March/April travel to Australia/New Zealand and try and hit the Polynesian islands in late April or May.

We were trying to find good places to travel in the US winter months early next year. So the Southern Hemisphere naturally came to mind. But I didn’t consider rainy season until now.

I’m still unsure about a cruise with the islands, although I get it also. Do you mind me asking for details about the Windstar one you mentioned?
 
As I’m reading more, it appears May is the transition to the dryer months in the islands. Supposed to be a decent month to be there as it’s a shoulder month before the busy season. Maybe DW & I will consider March/April travel to Australia/New Zealand and try and hit the Polynesian islands in late April or May.

We were trying to find good places to travel in the US winter months early next year. So the Southern Hemisphere naturally came to mind. But I didn’t consider rainy season until now.

I’m still unsure about a cruise with the islands, although I get it also. Do you mind me asking for details about the Windstar one you mentioned?

Confirm when hurricane season is, I think it is Jan-May.

Moorea is my favorite island. Bora Bora is like disneyland for Americans. You find quieter and more respectful tourists on Moorea and Tahiti.
 
Windstar sailing on Windspirit. It's a sailboat with 100 crew and 150 passengers. It's a ten day cruise around the islands. We really enjoyed the service Windstar provided on our first cruise this year. Everything was as good as could be expected. We heard about this boat and area from a crewmember that was on the boat during the initial covid lock downs. DW has always dreamed of a sailing experience and this was an opportunity to live it. The cabins are smaller compared to the Starpride we took around Iceland, there's fewer restaurants, and half the passengers.

We choose the dates based on the possibility of dryer weather.
 
We went in June but it was 20 years ago. We cruised on the Paul Gauguin and it was wonderful. Very different from being on a huge ship. Afterwards we spent several nights in an overwater bungalow at the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort. Wonderful!

We spent two weeks on Qamea, a private island small resort in Fiji. Loved that too. We are SCUBA divers and we did a lot of diving in Fiji as well as hiking.

It’s a beautiful part of the world. Fiji has some of the friendliest and genuinely nice people we’ve seen anywhere in the world. It was a bit more remote and less touristy than Bora Bora or Moorea.

We haven’t been but I’ve heard the Cook Islands are nice.
 
Most expensive vacation we ever went on. We did a week catamaran sail and a week at the Hilton on Moorea in an over the water bungalow.

Moorea was beautiful but the Hilton was run down and not worth the 1.1k/night we paid. Pool had missing plaster, wood was rough and splintered, roofs had missing thatch. Definitely not what we were expecting for the $$$$.

We went late August 2019, supposedly the warmer less rainy season. It was a little too cool for us but we did meet some other Travellers that went every year who said it was unusually cool that year.

We chalked it up to our most expensive least favorite trip to date. So many places to visit and all.

Would love to see Fiji, Cook Islands, New Zealand.

Best of luck and enjoy.
 
We just returned from a 19-night trip to the Society Islands. We visted Tahiti (6 nights), Moorea (7 nights), and Bora Bora (6 nights). I haven't been to Fiji or the other islands you mentioned in the OP, but I can answer a few of your questions with regards to these islands.

1. When to go? Definitely avoid going in rainy season. We have friends who went for two weeks in Dec-Jan and they said it rained too much for it to be very enjoyable. That said, the dry season is high season so prices will be higher for accommodations, etc and things will start getting booked up. We started booking in late July for our Sept-Oct trip, and there was very little availabiltiy in early Sept, especially on Moorea. We weren't able to find a solid 6 nights' accomodation on that island, so we ended splitting those 7 nights between 3 different places.

2. Which islands? This was our first trip, so we just stuck with Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. Tahiti was worth a few days IMO -- we rented a car and enjoyed driving around. But I know others on various travel forums find it the least interesting of the Society islands. You'll probably need to spend one or two nights here just due to flight schedules in and out. Bora Bora was alright, but we much preferred Moorea. There was much more to see and do, a wider variety of accommodations, and the snorkeling was great. Other islands that were recommended to us were Taha'a and Huahine, but we wanted to focus on the main islands since it was our first trip.

3. Activities? You already know about snorkeling and hiking. On Moorea we took a guided snorkel tour early on and they showed us some of the best spots (particularly just off Temae beach near the Sofitel). The guided tour included sea scooters which was really fun, and they took us by boat from the east side of the island to the south side, so we got to see quite a bit. We would have liked to rent our own boat and snorkel on our own -- we had actually booked a couple of days' rental for our Bora Bora stay but then weather caused the company to cancel. We were also on Moorea during humpback whale breeding season, and went on a whale tour with a marine biologist which was really informative and we did see whales and hear the male sing underwater.

4a. Lodging recommendations? Most of the travel forum posts we've seen have been about the Over-Water Bungalows (OWB). But we bucked the trend and just booked homes and apartments via Airbnb or Booking. We were still able to get waterfront property (snorkel from the backyard), but for a much better rate. Some of the big resorts do offer day passes. For example, we were able to spend the day at the St. Regis Bora Bora and it was wonderful and included lunch, use of the pool, and non-motorized water sports, like kayaks. So that was a way we could get the best of both worlds. Be aware that in high season at full occupancy, the resorts may not offer day passes. I had to call around -- the Conrad and the Four Seasons both gave me a polite but definitive "non". 😂

4b. Dining recommendations? On all of the islands we visited we saw many "roulottes" (food trucks). Unlike food trucks in America, these usually are permanently located and have seating areas. Look for them at the Vaitape and Puna'auia docks on Tahiti, and in various locations around Moorea. They are an economical alternative to resort dining, and the food was pretty good. We also had one of the best meals of our trip at Holy Steak on Moorea (filet with foie gras). Great views, and they have happy hour drink specials too. Drinks at the resorts can be very expensive (about $18-20 for fancy cocktails).

5. Getting around? We rented a car on each island. We usually self-drive because we like having the freedom to go where we like, and leave when we want. However, you could probably just rent a car for a few days of your stay on each island, just to explore (it takes about an hour to drive all the way around Moorea, and a little less than an hour to drive around Bora Bora). Most cars are stick-shift and outside of Tahiti, the roads are typically just one lane each way so driving is easy. Tahiti does have a freeway with many roundabouts -- it's a little bigger and more hectic, but we managed well with Google maps. If you don't rent a car on Tahiti, and decide to take the ferry to Moorea, there is an Avis right at the ferry dock there.

We did keep a blog of our trip, feel free to PM me for a link or if you have any questions I can answer while our trip is fresh in my mind. We also went to the South & North islands of New Zealand in early 2020 -- those posts are on our blog too.

Sorry for writing a book! :blush: Have fun planning your trip; it sounds wonderful!
 
We just returned from a 19-night trip to the Society Islands. We visted Tahiti (6 nights), Moorea (7 nights), and Bora Bora (6 nights). I haven't been to Fiji or the other islands you mentioned in the OP, but I can answer a few of your questions with regards to these islands.



1. When to go? Definitely avoid going in rainy season. We have friends who went for two weeks in Dec-Jan and they said it rained too much for it to be very enjoyable. That said, the dry season is high season so prices will be higher for accommodations, etc and things will start getting booked up. We started booking in late July for our Sept-Oct trip, and there was very little availabiltiy in early Sept, especially on Moorea. We weren't able to find a solid 6 nights' accomodation on that island, so we ended splitting those 7 nights between 3 different places.



2. Which islands? This was our first trip, so we just stuck with Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora. Tahiti was worth a few days IMO -- we rented a car and enjoyed driving around. But I know others on various travel forums find it the least interesting of the Society islands. You'll probably need to spend one or two nights here just due to flight schedules in and out. Bora Bora was alright, but we much preferred Moorea. There was much more to see and do, a wider variety of accommodations, and the snorkeling was great. Other islands that were recommended to us were Taha'a and Huahine, but we wanted to focus on the main islands since it was our first trip.



3. Activities? You already know about snorkeling and hiking. On Moorea we took a guided snorkel tour early on and they showed us some of the best spots (particularly just off Temae beach near the Sofitel). The guided tour included sea scooters which was really fun, and they took us by boat from the east side of the island to the south side, so we got to see quite a bit. We would have liked to rent our own boat and snorkel on our own -- we had actually booked a couple of days' rental for our Bora Bora stay but then weather caused the company to cancel. We were also on Moorea during humpback whale breeding season, and went on a whale tour with a marine biologist which was really informative and we did see whales and hear the male sing underwater.



4a. Lodging recommendations? Most of the travel forum posts we've seen have been about the Over-Water Bungalows (OWB). But we bucked the trend and just booked homes and apartments via Airbnb or Booking. We were still able to get waterfront property (snorkel from the backyard), but for a much better rate. Some of the big resorts do offer day passes. For example, we were able to spend the day at the St. Regis Bora Bora and it was wonderful and included lunch, use of the pool, and non-motorized water sports, like kayaks. So that was a way we could get the best of both worlds. Be aware that in high season at full occupancy, the resorts may not offer day passes. I had to call around -- the Conrad and the Four Seasons both gave me a polite but definitive "non". [emoji23]



4b. Dining recommendations? On all of the islands we visited we saw many "roulottes" (food trucks). Unlike food trucks in America, these usually are permanently located and have seating areas. Look for them at the Vaitape and Puna'auia docks on Tahiti, and in various locations around Moorea. They are an economical alternative to resort dining, and the food was pretty good. We also had one of the best meals of our trip at Holy Steak on Moorea (filet with foie gras). Great views, and they have happy hour drink specials too. Drinks at the resorts can be very expensive (about $18-20 for fancy cocktails).



5. Getting around? We rented a car on each island. We usually self-drive because we like having the freedom to go where we like, and leave when we want. However, you could probably just rent a car for a few days of your stay on each island, just to explore (it takes about an hour to drive all the way around Moorea, and a little less than an hour to drive around Bora Bora). Most cars are stick-shift and outside of Tahiti, the roads are typically just one lane each way so driving is easy. Tahiti does have a freeway with many roundabouts -- it's a little bigger and more hectic, but we managed well with Google maps. If you don't rent a car on Tahiti, and decide to take the ferry to Moorea, there is an Avis right at the ferry dock there.



We did keep a blog of our trip, feel free to PM me for a link or if you have any questions I can answer while our trip is fresh in my mind. We also went to the South & North islands of New Zealand in early 2020 -- those posts are on our blog too.



Sorry for writing a book! :blush: Have fun planning your trip; it sounds wonderful!


Great stuff. Appreciate all the insights. We will be reviewing all of this. I think we’re considering May at this point.
 
Most of the travel forum posts we've seen have been about the Over-Water Bungalows (OWB).

When we were in French Polynesia about 15 years ago we spent a couple of nights on Raiatea and got an overwater bungalow there at a very reasonable price. They can be ~$1000/night most places but we paid about $250 at an otherwise decent hotel because Raiatea is just not that popular with most tourists. We chartered a crewed catamaran and Uturoa is a major yacht port which is why we went there.

I did not like the OWB. I wanted the experience but the reality was hearing water sloshing against the pillars all night and not getting a good night's sleep. For a 1-2 night experience I would do it again but I don't think I would book a week.

I will give a minor shoutout to Raiatea. It is likely where the original Hawaiians departed from and it has the most most sacred temple (marae) in all of Polynesia (Taputapuatea which I was told by two different Tahitians translates as most sacred public space. National Geographic says it means "sacrifices from abroad" but I am quite sure they are wrong. Transliterating to Hawaiian it would be Kapukapuakea which even with my basic knowledge of Hawaiian translates as most sacred, reduplication of kapu (taboo) meaning sacred, and akea meaning a public space). In any case, you can still see the rocks where they executed people by "abrasion" - drawing them back and forth across a lava altar until they were dead. There are also vanila farms and other things to visit and the place is nearly deserted.

We also visited Taha'a but not the resort. Almost the entire island is a very expensive resort. There is not much there except the resort and a few locals, one of which we visited because our crew knew him.
 
We love the Cook Islands. Actually we've only been to Rarotonga and Aitutaki, which are the two main tourist destinations. The large beautiful Aitutaki lagoon is really something. Snorkeling is pretty good at both islands in the reef-protected lagoons and right off the beach. Don't need to get on those stinkin' snorkeling tour boats!
There are a few bigger resorts on Rarotonga but most are small which you can arrange yourself. They mostly are near the main road that goes around the entire island along the shore. We never found it necessary to drive as the bus goes around the island in about 1 hour; one each direction. There are no crowded beaches by the way. You can say they are practically deserted. Aitutaki is even more so.
Air New Zealand used to fly between LAX and RARO but has not resumed the flights. You have to fly to Aukland and turn around on a 3hr flight to raro. Air Raro supposedly is flying between PPT and RARO once a week but it's a new route for them. They weren't too sure from week to week when I checked a month ago unfortunately.
 
As for Bora Bora, that lagoon is amazing but that was 20 years ago for me. The tourism is over developed and overpriced. Go to the neighboring Maupiti for something more 'authentic'.
 
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