Solar Panel Installation Experiences?

Yes, the distributed systems all have the MPPT function built into the panel-mounted electronics.

For the "power optimizer" systems, I am still trying to find out more info to satisfy my curiosity. In one design that I have seen, each panel box has a DC-DC step-up converter with MPPT function to pump the panel voltage of around 50V up to 400VDC. This 400VDC bus voltage of the array is brought down to a large DC-AC inverter mounted by the power meter/circuit breaker box.

The systems I have seen have what is called a micro inverter on each panel. They aren't cheap, but sure solves the shading issue. I haven't seen a lot of folks using them on DIY solar forums, but they are there.
 
The systems I have seen have what is called a micro inverter on each panel. They aren't cheap, but sure solves the shading issue. I haven't seen a lot of folks using them on DIY solar forums, but they are there.

That's the system Yoheadden and I talked about earlier in the thread. It has a lot of advantages.

However, the micro inverters are of the grid-tied design. Without the grid, they shut down, because they are not meant to pump out AC power on a stand-alone basis. Each of them synchronizes to the grid individually.

Of course it is possible to synchronize all the micro inverters without the grid by more circuit sophistication, so that you have solar power when the grid is down. I have not seen this though.

On the other hand, I can see the "power optimizer" design being readily made hybrid, meaning supporting both grid-tied and off-grid operations. When the panels supply DC power down to the central inverter, it's easier. Plus, you can also have a high-voltage DC battery.

DIY'ers should not mess with high-voltage batteries however. I would not.
 
Modern systems use smaller micro inverters attached to the panels. The panels then operate independently from each other. Much better than the old system.

We have 24 panels with microinverters and we are also able to monitor each panel's PV production (or failure) with this setup.
 
We just had a rare power outage here for a couple hours. No problem, but did make us think about sustained power loss. Some years ago we actually ran the gas car to check/charge cell phones. big waste...

For that just buy a power bank like a Jackery.

Several of those can accept solar panel input directly.

Get a big enough one, add solar panels, and you can have A/C, lighting, and outlets energized for a room for far less than covering your whole house:

 
A recent 31-hour power outage got me thinking about this again. We've only lived here in Indiana for a year, and the neighbors say this kind of thing is rare. Our neighborhood power is underground, but trees fell on above-ground distribution lines a half-mile away, so it was a pretty widespread outage. Weather after the event was OK, so it would have been worse in rainy or winter weather.

We got by with just our dual-fuel 3200-watt generator running on propane. The only real concern was the new freezer that was nearly empty; empty freezers warm up quickly. I was able to move the little it contained to the fridge's freezer, which hardly warmed at all over 24 hours. Beyond that we just used flashlights at night. AC (1500 watt portable) in the bedroom would have been nice, but I had guessed the power would come back sooner than it did.

I'm going to start with a generator connection and an interlock-type transfer switch, as things we'd like to power are on as many as 12 different breakers.

Next step will be an inverter and battery. Do you watch Will Prowse's DIY solar on youtube? Look at the EG4 systems he reviews. The main part is an inverter/charger/solar controller, backed up by some big and expandable LiFePO4 batteries.

After that, maybe solar, but probably not on the roof. I'm thinking portable for use with the RV too.

I think the cost of all this stuff will continue to decrease, just as battery technology continues to improve.
 
Back
Top Bottom