Surfing Thread

[Nords]

How big is big ?

My reaction was: "RUNNNNNN!!!"

Would you feel the impact before you lost consciousness, or would you regain consciousness as you were dragged across the reef?

Where/when/who was this?

 

[ronin]

I am sure I'd be dead before anything else happened. It looks like teahupoo as thick as that lip is.

 

[TromboneAl]

If I had that sharky feeling then I'd paddle in.

Well, when you're the only one out there on a foggy morning, in a place that has had shark attacks in the past, there's no way to not have that sharky feeling.

I was hoping you guys would say something like "It's a one-in-500-million chance of being attacked," "more likely to be struck by lightning" etc. That's what I was looking for.

 

[ronin]

Cue the music from "jaws" duh da, duh da duh da...

Somehow friends and relatives saying "he died doing what he loved" doesn't quite get it done, eh?

Oh yeah, one more thing, don't pee in your wetsuit whatever you do... it's like shark lemonade!

 

[Nords]

I was hoping you guys would say something like "It's a one-in-500-million chance of being attacked," "more likely to be struck by lightning" etc. That's what I was looking for.

Well, if it makes you feel better you're absolutely right, but I've learned to listen to that little voice screaming inside my head!

Frankly what scares the heck outta me in the lineup is the helicopter pilots who hover down real low to check the thongs waves. One moment of "Wow, look at that!" inattention and we're all surfer sushi...

 

[TargaDave]

TargaDave - I am curious about your take on doing this without the support of an instructor and shallow water. I have a house on the water but we are talking only 100 yards of shallow water and then you are over your head. My take on this sport is that you need to build some pretty good skills before you take your own gear out in deep water. We figure we will stick with Hatteras and see if we can get good enough to be comfortable back home. At that point we can consider buying a kite. It will help that I have a jet-ski so DS and I can chase each other down as we blow miles down the river.

donheff,

Sorry for the late reply (haven't been on-line for a bit). You've got it about right. OBX-soundside on a steady 15 knot breeze is ideal for solo practicing after your first official lessons. Tougher locations and tougher weather (gusty) require better skills. A jet-ski chase vehicle and a lot of down-wind distance to hard objects will definitely add to the safety factor. Don't be intimidated by the first lessons. Safety skills-equipment are more important than riding skills.

A shot of my older daughter on her first kitesurfing lesson on the north Flats in South Padre Is a couple of years ago (she was 13 then). Another great learning spot.

T-Dave

 

[Nords]

6-8 feet at White Plains today and probably higher on Saturday. It's been a long time since I've seen this on the forecast: "HIGH SURF ADVISORY FOR NORTH AND SOUTH FACING SHORES". The forecast's "discussion" section (scroll down below the Oahu map) is pretty straightforward: "SUMMARY...Active surf pattern from around the compass into the weekend".

The detailed discussion is pretty interesting too. It looks like there are plenty of storms brewing up by Japan & Alaska as well as one parked about 1000 miles north of Hawaii. Are you guys getting any of it?

I added a noseguard and Proteck safety fins to the longboard. Seems to ride pretty much the same, although I'm much less dangerous...

 

[TromboneAl]

Big waves around here these days:

 

[TromboneAl]

I tried to get some photos to show how big the waves look, but you just can't get a feeling for it, lacking a frame of reference.

Here's a comparison of a normal day versus today:

 

[Nords]

Al, were you the photographer or were you out of the frame while you were putting on your wetsuit and scampering out there to catch a few?

We have the same "problem" here this weekend/early next week-- big surf on the North Shore and an "unseasonable" (the forecaster's word) south shore swell of 4-6 feet.

Choices, choices...

 

[JB]

A few surfing photos from our local beach

We had some very large surf last week and I had a chance to watch Laird Hamilton paddle into some 20+ ft waves on his 14' stand-up surfboard. This is Hookipa Beach Park on Maui.

 

[Nords]

Re: A few surfing photos from our local beach

A 14-footer down those faces? What type of design is that?!?

I wonder where the paddle goes when he wipes out... and Laird probably thinks leashes are for dogs, right?

I've seen one or two guys at the beach doing this. Blane Chambers has been going around Oahu giving talks. Maybe I'll have to visit one.

 

[JB]

I bet it's custom -- looked flat and fast, not much rocker. And he is surfing with a leash. He got worked pretty bad a few times but just kept of getting back on that board and paddling. Reminded me of the T-1000 cyborg from Terminator II. I have some good video from Thursday that I may post somewhere. Watching those guys in 20-30ft reminds me of what happens to me in 10ft. I bet the thrill is similar too!

 

[TromboneAl]

Great shots, JB. What is the main reason for doing it with a paddle?

Anyway, got my first surfing of the year in yesterday. Water temperature 50.4 degrees, 6-8 foot waves. My best ride involved my hand slipping during the popup, face plant on the board, but still able to get up, then a really long ride standing far forward on the board.

Can't wait for my surfing muscles to come back.

 

[JB]

I think stand up paddle is to longboarding as longboarding is to shortboarding. Once you can balance on the board and paddle it's much easier to catch waves. It's probably also less strain on your back and neck. I don't stand a chance at the local break when there's a stand up paddler going for the wave. They also do downwind runs on the open water.

I can't take credit for those photos, they were taken by the guy sitting next to me. I do have some nice video shots. I just need to find a place to post it where they don't decimate the quality.

 

[ronin]

Surf forecast has a whopping storm breaking free from the coast of Japan and dropping down in a southerly track towards Hawaii this week, regaining strength as it passes to the north, with large fetch aimed at California from the west at 270 dgr. (270 is really good for me). Could be 2x OH for Sun and Mon (which, ideally, is a school holiday!!). Could you island guys let us know how it pans out on the North Shore this week?

 

[Nords]

Surf forecast has a whopping storm breaking free from the coast of Japan and dropping down in a southerly track towards Hawaii this week, regaining strength as it passes to the north, with large fetch aimed at California from the west at 270 dgr. (270 is really good for me). Could be 2x OH for Sun and Mon (which, ideally, is a school holiday!!). Could you island guys let us know how it pans out on the North Shore this week?

Pat Caldwell is happy so far: "Outlook through Monday Feb 12. The current northwest swell will be reinforced by another west northwest swell Thursday. Surf heights will again be near or above the 25 foot warning levels for the north shore and 20 feet on the west shore."

It's not enough for the Eddie Aikau but they didn't invite any of us this year either.

We've been getting plenty of south shore wraparound even at the west side's current heights of 12-15. Considering the longer drive, bigger crowds, and sharper coral I've forsaken the North Shore this year for what's proving to be the best south shore out-of-season swells in quite a while.

I'll let you know how it goes in the next day or two...

 

[JB]

The first swell hit here on Tuesday afternoon. We had good conditions at my local break with 6-12' faces and 15 mph offshore winds. Down the coast it was 15' and more. Yesterday was head-high but still good. The new swell started hitting today (15 ft 17 sec) so we're in for another round. The wind clocked around to onshore so it might be mush. Hopefully we'll have good windsurfing later today or tomorrow when the wind turns to trades.

Check out this video from last Thursday.

 

[Nords]

Check out this video from last Thursday.

Ye gods, so paddlesurfing works best with four hands, hunh?

It seems to be mainly backside but Laird makes it look easy. I wish they'd shot more footage of his takeoffs, the part of the process that I still don't understand.

As for the windsurfers-- no wonder your knees hurt!

 

[JB]

I wish they'd shot more footage of his takeoffs, the part of the process that I still don't understand.

It's difficult to get shots of the take offs on the larger sets because the first waves obstruct the view. I was on a 15 ft bluff overlooking the break.

The next day he was at it again and this time ended up at the hospital with a gash on his face that required 14 stiches (he only has two hands). He was back at it the next day.

 

[ronin]

Sounds like a good, long period swell. I don't know how much weather is going to be associated with it by the time it gets here.

 

[ronin]

well, still no swell to speak of (3-4 occasionally 5 and bumpy) but the rain moved in so we will just have to hang out for a while...

 

[TromboneAl]

Thanks for that video, JB! It answered my main question of how it works with the paddle when your going out. The answer is, it's a mess, and I don't want any part of it.

DW and I were on that bluff watching some windsurfing at Hookipa many years ago (80's). I had some loose bills in my pocket, and when I pulled something out, at least 5 bills came out and blew across in front of the crowd. It was like an electric shock to the crowd. People were shouting "Money!" and chasing it. Didn't get any back. So that's what I remember when I hear Hookipa.

But I remember the wind blowing right to left when facing the water, so that video must have been shot during Kona winds, right?

 

[JB]

That's right. The normal trade winds are east/northeast which is sideshore at Hookipa. Once in awhile, usually in winter, a storm rages off Japan, moves into the north pacific, generates a large swell, then moves towards Hawaii and causes the winds to clock around to the southwest. It makes for great expert/pro level windsurfing at Hookipa.

It's been flat for a few days now and we're all awaiting the next swell which is due on Thursday.

 

[ronin]

We got skunked from the last one. Too much wind and island blockagage made it largely a no go out. bummer!