JoeWras
Give me a museum and I'll fill it. (Picasso) Give me a forum ...
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2012
- Messages
- 11,745
C cells are entering the graveyard.
Sure, but what are they used for?
Radios are the only thing I have that use "C" size batteries.
With such low power draw an "AA" in a "C" size adapter works great.
Or make your own for free. They do work, but certainly wouldn't use for critical applications. I use them in bait aerators.
If you have a few things that still take C or D, you can buy a little 'shell' adapter that takes an AA, so it physically fits. Saves you from needing to stock C/D cells.
Like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Popular-Mechanics-Battery-Converters-Rechargeable/dp/B08KYJBRX5
-ERD50
C batteries are rare but I have a faucet that operates by touch that uses batteries. It needs six batteries. It came with an adapter that can use AA batteries but the case is made for C batteries. I went ahead and bought some rechargeable C batteries so that I don’t have to get under the sink and change the batteries as often. The AA were lasting a little less that one year. I don’t know how long the C batteries will last but I’m thinking a few years.
I’m fully switched over to rechargeable batteries now except for my thermometer (for body temp) which takes a 9V.
Rechargeable C-size cells are as low as 4500 mAh capacity versus 3500 mAh for AA-size Energizer primary lithium batteries...which is why I use the latter in place of C-size batteries.
I've got an answer for you: watch battery. These were very common for quartz wristwatches, especially the analog hand type. I know because I just replaced a few on some old watches I found that I hope to sell (good luck?) at a garage sale.
BTW, on the CR series, the numbers make sense. The "20" means 20mm in diameter. The "32" means 3.2mm thick. I've also seen CR2016s. These typically go in watches, the LCD type. Thinner.
I drive no distance at all to order batteries from Amazon. I stick with name brands that I know and hope they are not counterfeit. So far, so good. I have failed on standardizing button cells, but try to limit my purchases to AA battery devices where I have a choice.
If it's for the kitchen sink I'd probably just buy (or make) a AC to 9VDC adapter for the above since I have an extra outlet available underneath.
Rechargeable C-size cells are as low as 4500 mAh capacity versus 3500 mAh for AA-size Energizer primary lithium batteries...which is why I use the latter in place of C-size batteries.
The ones I bought say 5000mAh Ni-MH. That’s at least double the Eneloop AA’s I was using with the adapter.
My main grievance with Ni-MH and NiCad cells is that their self-discharge is high. You charge up a power tool, then two weeks later it is dead.
On the other hand, primary cells (non-rechargeable) have much longer shelf life because their self-discharge is very low, but they are expensive for being non-rechargeable.
Rechargeable lithium cells have an amazing long shelf life. Once a rechargeable lithium cell has a high self-discharge, it is worn out and spent.
The 2032 is becoming the new AAA. I always have plenty on hand. Amazing how many devices use them now.
Interior of a "keyless" key fob for a 2016 Dodge Charger.
Yes, 2032 is the size on motherboards as the CMOS battery.
I also have rechargeable 2032 and button battery tester. 2032 batteries have a pretty good shelf life but the rechargeable is for a digital caliper that likes to drain batteries.
Do you use your digital calipers A LOT? Or are you just a victim of the cheap Chinese calipers that continue to drain the battery even when "off"? If so, get a pair of Mitutoyos (if you can ensure they are not knock-offs) and that should solve that problem. Or just remove the battery from the low-cost calipers after each use.
One problem with this battery is if you ever have any young children visiting - perfect swallowing size. So keep any spare batteries out of their reach.
Our last pack of button batteries had a notice that they are coated with a bitter tasting substance to deter kids from putting them in their mouths.
Do you use your digital calipers A LOT? Or are you just a victim of the cheap Chinese calipers that continue to drain the battery even when "off"? If so, get a pair of Mitutoyos (if you can ensure they are not knock-offs) and that should solve that problem. Or just remove the battery from the low-cost calipers after each use.
Here's my solution (in pictures). Not ideal as several steps involved and have to unscrew to battery cover, but better I think than having batteries die on me.