Weird, Scary, Mold Monster

Update

Well I know you home improvement junkies are waiting for the latest info and photos, so here they are.

I had Joe the Plumber come and fix the leak. The problem was indeed in the elbow. Joe wouldn't go so far as to say that the original plumber screwed up. Here's the fixed pipe:

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About $175 for that, and worth every penny.

Looking at the structural stuff, I now think that I may not need any repair. Check this out: there's only about 30 inches of damaged wood, and the joist sits on the undamaged top plate from the exterior wall.

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Here's the view from below, with things cleaned out a bit:

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In other words, the damaged wood isn't really supporting anything.

In any case, the water damage/mold guy is coming on Thursday. I think he might just say "dry it out and close it up," but we'll see.

I have a fan and dehumidifier running in the office, and this arrangement in the garage:

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I really should have gone after this aggressively as soon the monster reared his head in the kitchen's airspace. I let a whole month of leaking go by. Part laziness, part fear of mold.

Stay tuned!
 
The pro said to just dig out the damaged wood, dry it out, paint it with the appropriate preservative and close it up.

I've had the fans and dehumidifier going 24/7, and it looks good. Thanks again for the advice.
 
I don't know yet -- suggestions?

That shockwave stuff sounded a little too industrial, and I think the mold is no longer a problem.
 
I don't know yet -- suggestions?
Splash around Kilz primer, replace the insulation, and wall it up?

Maybe the garage drywall should have a piano hinge so that you can pop it open for an inspection every few years.
 
Mount a remote controlled camera and strobe light inside (wireless, of course) with a motion detector and DVR so you can have a running account of any reemergence of "bugs". All kidding aside, this has been a pretty good DIY (hope I never have to remember it) thread.
 
That pipe joint is now probably the least likely to leak of all the joints in the house.

BTW, the plumber said that the green stuff on the other pipes did not indicate leaking, and was related to the flux used during the soldering.
 
I don't know yet -- suggestions?

That shockwave stuff sounded a little too industrial, and I think the mold is no longer a problem.
I don't know what type of preservative he might be talking about. What would we be "preserving" it from? If the moisture issue is solved, the mold shouldn't come back. The only effective anti-mold, anti-moisture, anti-termite "preservative" I can think of for wood in a sealed-up area would be treated lumber (and then you'd need special fasteners and to keep it out of contact with the copper pipes). I just don't see a need for that here. AFAIK, the brush-on waterproofing, etc is no more effective than paint.
I'd just put a new vapor barrier on the warm-side of the stud bay (either apply two coats of "Zinser BIN" or even kraft-paper insulation) and then press in some fiberglass and wall it up.
 
Use a hair dryer to dry it out (to be sure it is dry) and put kilz on it - and forget about it. Could use any shellac lying around to do the same thing.
 
I don't know what type of preservative he might be talking about.......... .


Probably copper napthenate. Popular with the wood boat people. A common brand name is Cuprinol.
 
I got some of this, at the recommendation of the hardware store paint guy.
 
Al, be very careful with this stuff. Be sure to wash your hands before you go to the bathroom:

"...made up of solvents that carry resin deep into the pores where they evaporate and leave behind hardened resin resulting in hardened wood."

You know the drill - if the situation lasts more than 4 hours, consult a carpenter.
 
I got some of this, at the recommendation of the hardware store paint guy.

I used this stuff on a rotted window sill. It worked pretty well to stiffen the wood, but I don't think its intent is to kill mold.
 
Al, be very careful with this stuff. Be sure to wash your hands before you go to the bathroom:

"...made up of solvents that carry resin deep into the pores where they evaporate and leave behind hardened resin resulting in hardened wood."

You know the drill - if the situation lasts more than 4 hours, consult a carpenter.


This may be the product I need to boost my Ebay sales . How long does it harden wood for and does it work on old wood ?
 
I have fixed some rot in RV floors. Used old style Green antifreeze to kill mold etc first. After a few days of drying use your favorite epoxy type stuff to stabilize rotted wood. YMMV.
 
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