Your recent repair? 2013 - 2020

[Ronstar]

I have 3 ongoing repairs. I have a malfunctioning traction control module in my corvette. I removed it, and sent it to a company to be refurbished. It should be back today, and I'll install it and see what happens. My boat motor has been running sluggish, so I'm putting in new fuel, seafoam, and changing the spark plugs. I'll clean the carb if that doesn't solve the problem. But my most important repair is my kegerator. I'm fixing a leaky faucet and swapping out the beer lines for new ones.

 

[ls99]

Agree with priorities, gotta have the beer.

 

[Telly]

Picture attached. Yes, you can force it open with a stent. But there's a downside to that. It will allow warm air to flow back, and even worse, a lot of dirt and fuzz to regurgitate backward. This is exiting below the fridge near the coils where dirt and fuzz are in abundance. Better to get the occasional dirt from inside the apartment above. We all think no dirt gets in our fridge, but you'd be surprised what gets in by the "air suction" during door action.

BTW, I'm just going to put the task of cleaning this beast on a 3 year maintenance window. Easier to do before the ice jam develops.

Thanks for the pics. Our earlier frig had good door seals, and it would take a little bit more effort to open a door a moment after closing it (cool air dumps out, replaced with warmer room air, close door, air cools and contracts creating partial vacuum until it equalizes through vent or drain tube). Our new frig, a moment after you close the door, it takes a very large increase in effort to open it. Worse with freezer door than frig door (makes sense with temperatures). Its like a time-lock. Close the door, then exert an even pull force on a handle, and wait... after it equalizes to equal the pull force, the door pops open. So I suspect our new one has a valve like yours somewhere.
I should find it, before I NEED to find it!

 

[NW-Bound]

My motorhome dashboard on the trip last year displayed the "Service Engine Soon" light, then that went away. On this year trip, it displayed that again intermittently.

At home now, I plugged in the OBD II reader that I bought but not used, and with a free software for an Android tablet, promptly retrieved two fault codes: P0171, P0174.

These 2 codes translated to "System Too Lean (Bank 1)" and "System Too Lean (Bank 2)". On the Web, they say that it could be something as simply as a loose hose clamp on the intake, letting air in past the airflow sensor.

I hope that the above to be the case, but will need to wait until tomorrow to poke around in the engine compartment.

 

[BBQ-Nut]

Kitchen drawer guide rail bracket broke in the back where it is attached to the back of the cabinet.


I've had these plastic brackets age and crack before and in the past I've replaced them. Takes some time to align the rail into the new bracket, ensure it is level, pre-drill the screw holes...etc...et al


I was lazy today - the top of the bracket was still intact - just the bottom portion broke off. So I used a zip tie around the top portion to make a loop that will support the guide rail.


Fixed and done in 1 minute.


And - it even afforded me the opportunity to declutter the drawer of items we haven't used/touched in years. Nice and neat now!

 

[LinCella]

Chipped front tooth. Dentist repaired it ($250) and it looks great. Also, got a mouth guard (another $300!) so I won't chip any more of them!

 

[BOBOT]

Came home to water on the kitchen floor in front of the fridge.

A quick search revealed it is a common problem with bottom freezer Whirlpool/Maytags.

The good news it is an easy fix: just open the back panel, pop off the drain grommet, clean it, melt the ice dam, and reinstall.

The bad news is that this evaporator drain clogs easily. There are thousands of hits on it. Problem is stuff like fuzz easily gets sucked into the freezer during normal opening and closing. Some of it will work its way back to the evaporator. This gets in the drain. The drain grommet is there to stop warm air backflow, but in turn catches every possible piece of debris. When the drain stops, it freezes up and eventually flows into the compartment and onto your floor.

Joe-
Here's your fix; just did it myself. P trap tube replaces the duckbill grommet. Piece of cake & should be permanent. This vendor also has Youtube videos showing how. My question is, why the he** didn't they build it this way to begin with ?

 

[imoldernu]

My motorhome dashboard on the trip last year displayed the "Service Engine Soon" light, then that went away. On this year trip, it displayed that again intermittently.

At home now, I plugged in the OBD II reader that I bought but not used, and with a free software for an Android tablet, promptly retrieved two fault codes: P0171, P0174.

These 2 codes translated to "System Too Lean (Bank 1)" and "System Too Lean (Bank 2)". On the Web, they say that it could be something as simply as a loose hose clamp on the intake, letting air in past the airflow sensor.

I hope that the above to be the case, but will need to wait until tomorrow to poke around in the engine compartment.

Both suggestions are possibilities.
My 96 Cadillac SLS has thrown those two codes ever since we bought it in 2004. Happens when the car idles for any extended period in warm weather.
The onboard center in my car has an erase code ability, so i just reset and go for another 1000 or so miles before ith appens again. GMC forums are familiar with this problem.
When I brought it into a dealer back in 2005, he told me I'd need a new exhaust system @ about 3K... (catalytic converters etc.)

One recommended fix (check on line help) is to open the MAF (air flow ) hose and find the sensor... a tiny hair thin sensor that should only be cleaned with electronic cleaning fluid... not brake cleaner.

For the past 11 years, we're still getting about 22 mpg w/ the northstar engine... 28 on trips.
Others recommend changing the O2 sensors, but the Cadillac Forums that I go to say the MAF sensor is the most common . In my case, I've done neither, and as long as the problem is intermittent, I ain't agonna fix it.
Good luck!

 

[NW-Bound]

Thanks for the MAF cleaning suggestion. I will wait a couple of days to acclimatize back to the heat here at home before going out to work this problem.

As I check for vacuum leak, I will take the MAF off to clean the sensor wires too. My gas mileage has been erratic with last year's trip as well as the most recent one. My trips in 2010 and 2011 right after I bought the MH had a lot better mpg's.

Whatever I do, I will not know for sure that the problem is gone until I make another trip. Seems like a good excuse to hit the road again.

 

[sengsational]

Speaking of evaporator coil drains, it appears my main drain pan in my A/C coil in the attic is rusted thru and the condensation is leaking into my secondary pan. Just what I need....a 15 year old unit go south and the system is R22.

I know that replacing the inner pan is a pain as it is part of the coil housing.

The inner pan rusted through on my upstairs unit last summer. I still haven't fixed it or had it fixed, so it's dripping into the backup pan. Also R22. Mine is 22 years old, and builder installed "quality".

My plan was to fix it as soon as it warmed-up. Now it's too hot!

 

[aja8888]

The inner pan rusted through on my upstairs unit last summer. I still haven't fixed it or had it fixed, so it's dripping into the backup pan. Also R22. Mine is 22 years old, and builder installed "quality".

My plan was to fix it as soon as it warmed-up. Now it's too hot!

Unfortunately, builder in my tract home installed "builder grade" appliances throughout the development. Many houses I have seen here have upgraded appliances and A/C units. Fellow down the street had the A/C contractor replacing he whole unit and the furnace yesterday. I may go for a new A/C unit as I had the money budgeted for this year. That way I will be good for a decade and a half or longer.

One thing I have learned from living in Houston is that A/C units and 30 year roof shingles have half-life utility.

 

[REWahoo]

One thing I have learned from living in Houston is that A/C units and 30 year roof shingles have half-life utility.

And those of us with heat pumps get even poorer results - 10 to 12 years is my experience.

 

[sengsational]

And talking "builder grade", I thought I'd sneak a little bit of glue into a place in the ceiling where the popcorn coating was hanging loose. Hardly noticeable, but once I saw it, I couldn't leave it alone. With a hypodermic needle and a little super-glue? Don't try it! I had it up there pretty good, but I tried to improve it and a few seconds later, I had a bunch of chips fall off, leaving me with unprimed wallboard and inch or two across!

So I scraped the loose stuff off (about a foot in diameter) and, after a trip to the hardware store, gooped on the popcorn repair stuff.

It looks pretty good, texture-wise, but does anyone have an easy way to get it to match the ceiling color better? It's too white!

 

[REWahoo]

It looks pretty good, texture-wise, but does anyone have an easy way to get it to match the ceiling color better? It's too white!

Stand underneath it and smoke a couple of cartons of cigarettes...

 

[Lakewood90712]

Not an immediate problem, all lawnmowers, tillers, generators, etc. are currently in working condition, but the ancient Chinese mower repair shop owner I have trusted, for like 30 years , passed, and now I have to find a new repair shop.

I haven't had a conundrum like this scene my last barber retired .

 

[GravitySucks]

Replaced both garage doors, springs, and rails.
Lucky to have a good friend who is handy. It took the two of us two and a half days.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Early Retirement Forum mobile app

 

[Lisa99]

We're about to buy a gently used 5th wheel RV so I'm praying that I don't become a regular on this thread!

 

[jazz4cash]

Water Powered Self Winding Hose Reel

Bought a fancy expensive water powered hose reel. I hate winding the hose back up and I hate having a mesy tangled pile of hose to fight with. It worked so well I went back to Lowe's and bought a second unit for the back yard. After 4 yrs they started acting up...running erratically/ would not rewind. I liked themd so well I already decided to replace at least one of them if I could not fix them but I was actually hoping it just needed some generic seals replaced so I took it apart and sure enough some of the seals were dislodged. Unfortunately, I damaged the plastic valve when I tried to get to the seal. The company was out of business in the US and a search on the brand name (Hydro Industries) took me to a site selling hydroponic growing equipment. Fortunately the rights were purhased by Suncast and they were selling the valve for only 8 bucks and another part I needed was only $4. Shipping was fast and cheap. Cost me $28 to rebuild both units and they are as good as new. I've had good luck with various other Suncast products.

 

[ls99]

We're about to buy a gently used 5th wheel RV so I'm praying that I don't become a regular on this thread!

Congratulations.

A new opportunity to practice your electromechanicalplumbing skills.

 

[ArkTinkerer]

We're about to buy a gently used 5th wheel RV so I'm praying that I don't become a regular on this thread!

Just a dose of reality--if you took your home and drove it across the country with everything bouncing up and down when you hit every pothole do you think it would survive unscathed? At megacorp we test some systems by vibrating them until they fall apart. Most large items are put in their shipping packaging and then on a machine that is made to simulate the bouncing of a shipping van. Interesting what falls out of such a test...

 

[REWahoo]

Just a dose of reality--if you took your home and drove it across the country with everything bouncing up and down when you hit every pothole do you think it would survive unscathed? At megacorp we test some systems by vibrating them until they fall apart. Most large items are put in their shipping packaging and then on a machine that is made to simulate the bouncing of a shipping van. Interesting what falls out of such a test...

+1

As someone who has owned an RV of one type or the other for the past 30 years, I agree that no matter how well they are built things are going to come loose, leak, short out, fall off, break, blow away or deteriorate. Guaranteed.

 

[NW-Bound]

What is that they say about the two happiest days of an RVer's life... Oh wait! That is about boaters.

Anyway, when I am done with my RV, it's going to be given away, so there will be no selling.

 

[ERD50]

Can I call it a repair, if I didn't use any tools, duct tape, or glue?

For several months now, I've noticed a water hammering in the pipes when I shut various faucets throughout the house. I know that's bad, it puts stress on all the pipes.

At each faucet, the typical set up is to have about a 6" extension of pipe rise above the take-off point. This traps air, and provides a cushion against the sudden closing of a faucet against the non-compressible water. Over time, that air gets dissolved into the water.

So I finally thought of it when DW was around to open & close faucets on command (well, OK, I asked nicely ). We use our cordless phones as walkie-talkies (need to be within range of the base station). I close the valve to the well pump - pressure tank side, have her open faucets set at middle (half hot, half cold), and I open the faucet in the basement to drain and let air into the system. Took just a few minutes to run through all the faucets, then turn pressure back on and close them as they pushed air out of the lines (but the air in the anti-hammer sections is trapped).

It worked. No more water hammers! Only one of the faucets coughed up some sediment and crud, I may have to clear some of the filters in the aerators over the next few days, but I'm glad I got this done.

-ERD50

 

[zinger1457]

It didn't start out as a repair but could easily turn into one if not careful. Decided to add 4GB of RAM to my HP Laptop, it was always a simple upgrade in every other computer I've owned. This time it was anything but simple, had to completely disassemble the laptop. These are the steps (from the HP manual) that you have to perform to add/replace memory modules on my laptop. Each step has it's own section in the manual that includes more detailed instructions.

1. Shut down the computer.
2. Disconnect all external devices
connected to the computer.
3. Disconnect the power from the computer by first unplugging the power cord from the AC outlet and then unplugging the AC adapter from the computer.
4. Remove the battery.
5. Remove the keyboard.
6. Remove the top cover.
7. Remove the hard drive.
8. Remove the USB board.
9. Remove the WLAN.
10. Remove the system board.

 

[M Paquette]

Finished restoration, alignment, and calibration of a Tektronix 932 oscilloscope. This is a nice basic bench instrument that I'll need for my next projects, complete cosmetic and electronic restorations of a 50 year old transmitter and receiver pair, a HeathKit SB-301 and SB-401.