How hard is it to install cabinets?

[OldShooter]

You’ll definitely want to watch some TOH videos first because there’s never been a level floor and straight wall in the history of construction, lol! That is, “cabinet measurement” straight and level. IOW, 1/2 inch is nothing in a wall, but it will blow your cabinet layout out of the water (if it sounds like the voice of experience, that’s cuz it is). The TV shows will show you how to accommodate for the imperfections.

Yup. This. The flatness of the wall and whether its shape is a trapezoid vs being a rectangle will have a large influence on your enjoyment of the job. Ditto the straightness and parallelism of the upper and lower wall edges. Be sure to level the floors of the cabinets both front/rear and left/right. You do not want things rolling around in there.

Even with help, it is a good idea to build a couple of support frames to hold the upper cabinets the correct height above the lowers.  Plan to shim to height, plumb, and level.<br>

 

[48Fire]

I just watched a guy install our cabinets for $1,900. Impressive to watch an expert, with all the tools. He was done in 2 days. No injuries for me or my wife. No arguments

 

[6miths]

Piece of cake these days and especially when you are only looking at a single wall installation. I am no pro but redid the laundry/mudroom at the cottage last summer with a similar layout but washer and dryer instead of fridges and added a laundry sink. So many cabinet size options and 'innovations' such as hangers that just make things so much easier and give a professional look.

 

[rk911]

Uppers, lowers, everything. I figure it will cost me $3k to have our guy do it and it will be done right, but then I only get to supervise. Of course, if I do it, I may end up divorced.

 

[skyking1]

I built all our cabinets, but the install procedures are similar.
My method for the base cabs is to build a custom ladder base that fits tight to the floor, and is custom fit to whatever out of level condition you are dealing with in the flooring. I use a belt sander with 60 grit to shave the ladder for any bumps in the flooring till it fits tight and level.
I prefer this over shims, as they can displace or otherwise give out in some manner.
For the uppers I deal with any out of square corner and work out from that. I tend to screw the face frames together and plug the holes with cut plugs from the same stock.

 

[CRLLS]

I've installed cabinets 3 time over the years. As mentioned, it is a fairly straight-forward job. But cabinets are large and heavy. A 2nd person is a requirement when installing the uppers. Once on the ledger then all that is needed is a 2x4 wedged to support the outer edge while screwing it all in place. Also used a ledger board for the uppers. So much easier. For the 2 jobs we did with corner cabinets, we started in the corner and built out both ways unlike the video posted above. From there, it is just some finish carpentry.

 

[Music Lover]

I've done it 3 times, once in a friend's new build, one in a reno, and once repurposing a kitchen to our cabin.

I'm fairly handy and found it easy. Locate the studs beforehand and mark the inside of the cabinet where the screws should go to eliminate guesswork. If you are putting the uppers right to the ceiling you should have a double stud top plate that allows you to put screws in anywhere as long as you put the screws close enough to the top. It goes without saying but you HAVE to hit studs with the screws.

I had my wife and neighbor to help at the cabin so they held them in place while I put in the screws. Even with a heavy cabinet you can put in one screw and then level it before putting in a 2nd screw to lock it into place.

Do the uppers first so that the lower cabinets won't be in the way. You can also screw a 2x4 to the wall to rest the cabinet on to make things easier. Use a clamp to hold the next cabinet to the one already installed. Make sure to ensure the front edges are flush. If the clamp is metal take care not to scrape the inside of the cabinet, it maybe best to use a scrap of wood for protection.

 

[calmloki]

Just had lowers installed and the cabinet shop had a nifty new thing - screw out 4" feet so they could easily get the cabinet boxes level. This kind of thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Desunia-Cabinet-Leveler-Legs-Capacity/dp/B018ZQOYQ6?th=1

Would have saved our builder grade particle board cabinets from dissolving when we flooded the floor.

 

[ERD50]

I agree with others that it isn't a hard job, but it does take some planning and attention to the plumb/level of the room. The biggest one for base cabinets is finding and starting at the high point, so that as you go to the next cabinet and keep it level, you shim rather than have to cut anything away. Same with plumb, you have to find the furthest out point, and work from there, though a backsplash might give s a little leeway, depending.

That said, I ran into an unexpected problem putting in upper cabinets in our laundry room in our new place. They were to be full width of the wall, and we decided that having them extend out 1.5" from the back wall would be a (small) plus, a little easier to reach the back, so I just ran a 2x4 the width of the wall, one with the bottom edge just above the bottom edge of the cabinets, One down ~ 4" from the top of the cabinets. Screw those into the studs, then I can screw the cabinets in the best places w/o needing to hit a stud.

So all is going well, until I just can't seem to hit the stud along the top cross 2x4. What the heck, I checked them by hammering a finish nail in to find the exact center, and ran a plumb line up from there - they can't be that crooked?

I end up drilling a 1" hole so I can see what's going on. To my shock, the 'studs' stop ~ 6"~8" short of the ceiling! What the heck??!! Nothing in this house is shoddily constructed that I've seen, this just isn't making sense. A little more probing, and I figure it out...

This is a 'mechanical wall' (I think that's what they call them - it has the drains and vent stacks running through it for laundry and bathroom is on the other side of that wall. So it is thicker than a 2x4 wall. So those weren't 2x4 'studs', they were 2x3s that were nailed to the face of the 2x4 studs, just to add thickness to the wall, and provide something for the drywall screws to sink into. And there really was no need for them to go all the way up, the drywall is screwed into the top plate, so a 6"~8" gap between screws is normal anyway. But it sure threw me for a loop. I just moved the top cross 2x4 down another 4" or so, and it all worked out.

But you just never know.

-ERD50

 

[cathy63]

...I'm fairly handy and found it easy. Locate the studs beforehand and mark the inside of the cabinet where the screws should go to eliminate guesswork. If you are putting the uppers right to the ceiling you should have a double stud top plate that allows you to put screws in anywhere as long as you put the screws close enough to the top. It goes without saying but you HAVE to hit studs with the screws...

I am not so sure that always goes without saying. A few years ago, we started hearing weird creaking noises from one of our upper cabinets. Looking at it, we could see that the upper corner and attached molding were no longer touching the ceiling. Further investigation revealed that this one cabinet was not screwed into the studs despite being installed by licensed contractors during a kitchen remodel. It had been like that for 15 years before it started slipping. I guess being wedged between another cabinet and a wall were enough to hold it up for that long. We are very lucky that it didn't fall since it holds all of our dishes.

 

[Happyras]

If I hire someone else, they can feel her wrath. She has been making offhand comments about how we should hire someone vs. me doing it. So I guess that is decided. Will need to find another project.

I have to agree with your decision. I did exam room remodels on our clinic before sell, expanded offices and replaced many cabinets. The Monday morning quarterbacks came in after working all day and night Sunday's to shred every detail they could pick on. I had no choice, since who can you get to work on Sunday and I did not want to shut down the clinic. The flooring adhesive was not even dry when they walk in and start complaining why is it peeling.

After selling, we decided to tear out all of our kitchen and remodel. I choose to do this myself. Three rows vertical of cabinets to set, over 50 boxes. Since I did the install, I had little recourse on defects. The cabinet manufacturer used 9/16 plywood on some, and 1/2 inch on other boxes, making them off dimension when stacking. Took a lot of scratching to figure out why boxes on one row were 24" and the next row they were 24.125 wide. Needless to say, a lot of filler to make them OK, not perfect.

If I had used their installer, it would have been a lot easier to force replacements. I resolved to accept with a cash settlement.

 

[Out-to-Lunch]

Just had lowers installed and the cabinet shop had a nifty new thing - screw out 4" feet so they could easily get the cabinet boxes level. This kind of thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Desunia-Cabinet-Leveler-Legs-Capacity/dp/B018ZQOYQ6?th=1

Would have saved our builder grade particle board cabinets from dissolving when we flooded the floor.

+1. I bought my cabinets (in ~2014) from Scherr's, who make custom, but flat-packed, cabinets. So they are like Ikea construction, but custom, in your choice of materials. (I went with full plywood carcasses.) Anyway, they used these exact levelers, which I found easy to use.

 

[Koolau]

I just watched a guy install our cabinets for $1,900. Impressive to watch an expert, with all the tools. He was done in 2 days. No injuries for me or my wife. No arguments

Similar experience but $1300 for 2 days IIRC (14 years ago.) Here's the thing: The guy spent over 4 hours carefully measuring and marking before he drilled a single hole or attached a single piece of wood. Once he actually started, it LOOKED easy. Am I making a point here? Yes - it's easy if you know how, have the right tools, measure more than once! - Oh, and he did NOT have a helper! YMMV

 

[Ronstar]

Another thing. Take all of the doors off and drawers out before installing.

 

[Jerry1]

Similar experience but $1300 for 2 days IIRC (14 years ago.) Here's the thing: The guy spent over 4 hours carefully measuring and marking before he drilled a single hole or attached a single piece of wood. Once he actually started, it LOOKED easy. Am I making a point here? Yes - it's easy if you know how, have the right tools, measure more than once! - Oh, and he did NOT have a helper! YMMV

I had a similar experience with a guy who tiled our bathroom in our prior house. He seemed a little off, but he came with a great recommendation. Okay, we’ll see. Then he spends what seems like eternity doing the layout work, mostly in his head, but he did mark up the walls. Well, long story short, everyone who ever looked at our house (subsequent contractors and others) always asked who did our tile work. People who know what they’re doing make it look easy. That doesn’t mean it is easy.

 

[Music Lover]

I had a similar experience with a guy who tiled our bathroom in our prior house. He seemed a little off, but he came with a great recommendation. Okay, we’ll see. Then he spends what seems like eternity doing the layout work, mostly in his head, but he did mark up the walls. Well, long story short, everyone who ever looked at our house (subsequent contractors and others) always asked who did our tile work. People who know what they’re doing make it look easy. That doesn’t mean it is easy.

Bad tile layouts is one of my pet peeves. When I tiled my shower I made sure to buy the right size tiles and lay them out correctly. Other than a crooked or uneven job nothing looks worse than a tiny 1" strip of tile in a corner.

Before I tiled the shower (3 walls, 3x5) my wife and I laid out all the tiles on the basement floor so we could properly "randomize" the layout.

 

[kingkarmann]

Measure, measure, measure!
Oh, did I say measure?!

 

[papaof2]

One person can install upper cabinets BUT only after the base cabinats are in place. You need to know how to support and balance a cabinet on a small hydraulic jack - I usually make a simple 2x4 support that fits the bottom of the cabinet.
You put the cabinet against the wall and slide it up, then use the jack for support and to make the final adjustment of the cabinet's vertical position.

I haven't done that in a while - after passing 70 and having shoulder surgery (torn rotator cuff) I leave the heavy work to younger people ;-)

 

[Music Lover]

One person can install upper cabinets BUT only after the base cabinats are in place. You need to know how to support and balance a cabinet on a small hydraulic jack - I usually make a simple 2x4 support that fits the bottom of the cabinet.
You put the cabinet against the wall and slide it up, then use the jack for support and to make the final adjustment of the cabinet's vertical position.

I've installed uppers alone by screwing a 2x4 to the wall to support them, then just rest them on top. It can be tricky but if you measure correctly and start the screws into the cabinets first it's not that hard. If you do it that way it's easier if the base cabinets aren't in the way.

Both methods work fine, it's really just a matter of preference.

 

[imnontrad]

Yes, you could probably install. But to get them level, handle the situation where the cabinet might not fit right etc - eh.
I think you would be better off hiring someone who does this for a living. A less than adequate job would be noticed if you later choose to sell the house.

 

[MC Rider]

Yes, you could probably install. But to get them level, handle the situation where the cabinet might not fit right etc - eh.
I think you would be better off hiring someone who does this for a living. A less than adequate job would be noticed if you later choose to sell the house.

And check their work. When we redid the kitchen, once they had the "fridge port" cabinet in place, we tried to slide the fridge in. No go! and it turned out the side of the cabinet was not plumb. Had to argue with the installer guy, but he relented and fixed it when I suggested calling the office. There's a couple small imperfections. If you know where to look.

 

[Music Lover]

Yes, you could probably install. But to get them level, handle the situation where the cabinet might not fit right etc - eh.
I think you would be better off hiring someone who does this for a living. A less than adequate job would be noticed if you later choose to sell the house.

I think it's easily doable for most competent DIYers. When it comes down to it, you're really just hanging some boxes on the walls. Measure, take your time, make sure the screws hit studs, and make sure they're level.

 

[Sunset]

I find that cabinet above the fridge pretty useless, I took it off before our new fridge came and am thinking I might just paint the wall, rather than install it back in place. Especially as the fridge might be an inch too tall.

 

[bs300]

I've done a few. I'd recommend an adjustable support pole for the uppers. Either piston or screw. They support the cabinet and allows micro adjustments just before installing screws. Also cabinet face clamps. They hold individual cabinets face frame together and flush for screwing together. Level, tape measure, stud finder, cordless driver, and get the right screws for cabinets, not longer drywall screws.

 

[Music Lover]

I find that cabinet above the fridge pretty useless, I took it off before our new fridge came and am thinking I might just paint the wall, rather than install it back in place. Especially as the fridge might be an inch too tall.

We use the cabinet above the fridge for seasonal and rarely used items.