Do I have to rewire for smoke detectors?

[badatmath]

The ones I am finding online do not have the same sort of pin arrangement as my current ones plug into. Like a straight line , where the new ones I am seeing are more like a triangle.

I have one that lets out 3 beeps a couple times a day despite changing batteries twice and the great internet wisdom tells me it must be replaced but to rewire seems more than a little much.

And I am getting the idea that replacing one is not a thing, I must do the whole house?

 

[OldShooter]

You might get lucky and find new smoke detectors made by the same company, which are more likely to have the same pin configuration.

Otherwise it is really no big deal to change the bases. Shut off electricity to the base, remove two screws that hold it to the ceiling box, remove the wire nuts that attach the current base wires to the house wiring. Then connect the new wires, matching the colors to the old connections, and fasten the new base.

Another thought: If your problem smoke detector is the type that shines a light beam to detect smoke opacity you might be able to just clean the sending and receiving lenses by wiping with a clean rag. If it is an ionization type detector you are probably out of luck. Youtube is probably your friend in figuring this out.

 

[flyingaway]

Following.

Are these the chained smoke detectors? I have a few n my house which were originally installed about 15 years ago. I am thinking to replace all of them, but have not gotten around to do it.

 

[Sunset]

I replaced mine with ordinary battery operated ones. Covers the hole in the ceiling nicely.

 

[badatmath]

I don't think I can replace them all without a handyman or a taller ladder anyway. I perch on the top of the ladder (where you aren't supposed to stand) to change the batteries in one as it is. The others are more accessible. Still looking.

I did find they sell such things as wiring harness adapters though. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-H...bination-Detector-Adapters-21028461/309522936

Yep they are chained. Yes they are too old.

Mild rant: why is nothing simple?! I don't really want to read about each kind of alarm and what pins it has . . .

 

[Spock]

I just replaced 2. There is an adapter kit that converts from the old "3 in a row" (Firex 120-1182b) to "3 in a triangle" connectors (Kiddie i4618ac).
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kidde-H...bination-Detector-Adapters-21028461/309522936


The new ones also came with a pig tailed connector ready to wire nut into the house wiring.


Seems to work OK... yet neither of them have the "green LED indicating AC power" as described on the package. So either the package lied or there isn't AC power despite being hardwired in the ceiling.

Also note that the new ones will start beeping when they are 10 years old. Planned obsolescence.

 

[badatmath]

Seems kind of irritating to have to add more stuff the the landfill. And I am reading I need photo electric or dual sensors and seeing mostly ionization.

I removed the new battery and held the test button 30 seconds and blew out the dust maybe that will help. Yes, I still realize alarms from 1998 are not good. . .

Ugh the dual sensor one I was looking at is $62. That will add up fast.

 

[latexman]

I replaced mine with the 10 year worry-free smoke detectors. About $20 each at Home Depot and Lowes. In 8-10 years, replace them and throw the old one away.

 

[ncbill]

Well, if they're hardwired use the adapter kit or re-wire.

Those of us with hardwired have to replace with the same to stay in code.

My original ones didn't have battery backup & in a power failure they held enough residual charge to sound like someone was torturing R2-D2.

Not loud like when sounding their alarm, but disconcerting.

So I replaced them with ones that had battery backup.

 

[Montecfo]

I had the same issue but found similar Kidde hardwired smoke detectors. Original ones were also Kidde. They did have a little kit to use with different connectors.

I replaced all 7 with no issues. I figured they would be squawking but all seem to work fine.

Similar with CO2 detectors. I googled a picture of ones I had and found the same unit online somewhere. Bought and replaced. No issues.

Sadly, the house did burn down a month later.

Just kidding.

 

[SecondAttempt]

You might get lucky and find new smoke detectors made by the same company, which are more likely to have the same pin configuration.

Otherwise it is really no big deal to change the bases. Shut off electricity to the base, remove two screws that hold it to the ceiling box, remove the wire nuts that attach the current base wires to the house wiring. Then connect the new wires, matching the colors to the old connections, and fasten the new base.

Another thought: If your problem smoke detector is the type that shines a light beam to detect smoke opacity you might be able to just clean the sending and receiving lenses by wiping with a clean rag. If it is an ionization type detector you are probably out of luck. Youtube is probably your friend in figuring this out.

I find I have to replace smoke detectors every few years (4-5). I think the reason is tiny spiders or other insects getting in there. You could try buying some "canned air" used for dusting off electronics and other stuff to try to clean them out. Don't use the "freeze spray" though without turning off the power and waiting half an hour or so after spraying to turn them back on because you could damage them. Rewiring is pretty simple but I have gotten lazy and buy the same brand so I do not need to do even that. Some brands will come with adapters as well although they tend to cost more.

Just make sure you TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER OR SERVICE DISCONNECT!!!!!

I live in Hawaii, have no heat and no sources of combustion (i.e. no carbon monoxide) in the house so I tend to get the cheapest available. These are usually contractor packs of FireX brand. When I lived on the mainland and had aa gas furnace I stuck with First Alert which seemed to be a better brand.

 

[SecondAttempt]

Sadly, the house did burn down a month later.

Just kidding.

I wonder how many house fires occur every year because of miswired smoke alarms done by homeowners who get infuriated over malfunctions.

I bet the answer is not zero.

 

[Telly]

I don't think I can replace them all without a handyman or a taller ladder anyway. I perch on the top of the ladder (where you aren't supposed to stand) to change the batteries in one as it is. The others are more accessible.

Oh please, badatmath, don't do that! Ladders are not expensive at all, compared to the body damage that can occur! And not all damage is fixable.

 

[pb4uski]

+1. My smoke detectors timed out at 10 years and I was able to find replacements for that make and model on Amazon. If you can't find the same pin configuration then you can replace the base and all. Turn off the power to that fixture, remove it and replace with new. And either rent or borrow a bigger ladder so you can do it safely or hire a handyman to do it.

 

[Taco]

I recently replace all of my hard-wired smoke detectors. I did not find any locally with the same connector as my old ones. So I got 4 pack at Home Depot that came with pigtail connectors. So just had to remove the pigtail from the old detectors and wire in the new - as OldShooter outlined above.

But if they are hard to access, I'd say just throw some money at it and let someone else do it. Falling off a ladder is not worth it...

 

[Montecfo]

I wonder how many house fires occur every year because of miswired smoke alarms done by homeowners who get infuriated over malfunctions.

I bet the answer is not zero.

And folks that disconnect them due to annoyance. Clearly this is the diligent crowd but alas all are not.

 

[street]

If it were me before replacing detectors that are all tied together with AC power. I would recommend highly to clean them thoroughly with air projection or vacuum. All boards and sensors need to be dust and grim free to work properly.

Been there done that. Old Shooter had great advice and if still a problem I would disconnect AC power and go strictly battery powered going forward.

Good Luck!

 

[Montecfo]

If it were me before replacing detectors that are all tied together with AC power. I would recommend highly to clean them thoroughly with air projection or vacuum. All boards and sensors need to be dust and grim free to work properly.

Been there done that. Old Shooter had great advice and if still a problem I would disconnect AC power and go strictly battery powered going forward.

Good Luck!

Mine worked fine. But their useful life had expired.

 

[street]

Mine worked fine. But their useful life had expired.

Gotcha I must have not read it clearly. Sorry about that!

 

[Yipper]

In my state we need to either have hard-wired smoke detectors or the 10 year battery ones in order to get a CO or when selling a property. I've been told even the hard-wired detectors have about a 10 year lifespan so good to replace every decade regardless.

 

[badatmath]

Do I really need dual sensors or just photoelectric?

I am afraid dual might increase false alarms.

 

[OldShooter]

Do I really need dual sensors or just photoelectric?

I am afraid dual might increase false alarms.

IIRC some types of fires are better detected by one type of detector vs the other. Google will tell you.

 

[badatmath]

Yeah google said some conflicting things like usual. . . I will figure it out.

 

[badatmath]

Ugh cleaning did not fake it out I guess I will go shopping tomorrow.

 

[old medic]

And I am getting the idea that replacing one is not a thing, I must do the whole house?

With our major remodel, we have to wire the whole house for new detectors.