We do have a specific weakness that I need to correct: really crappy doors/locks/frames. What do I need to get (besides new doors and locks) to make it tough to just open one of the doors with a kick? There is the front door and a flimsy back door in a pretty private backyard where I imagine someone could get in without anyone noticing.
The frame is the weakest element. There are crappy doors and locks out there, but 99.99% of the zillion doors I kicked open, or saw kicked open, opened up because the frame failed - either by breaking or not holding the lock bolt/strike plate.
When I bought my current house in the late 80's, I was a detective getting 7-10 burglary cases assigned per
day. I worked a guy who confessed to something like 600 residential burglaries in a year - he was good for more but I got tired of all the writing. To say that I was determined to not be the victim of a burglary would be an understatement.
It would have been a professional embarrassment.
When I moved into the house, one of the first things I did was harden all the entry doors. The actual doors were fine - either solid wood or metal clad. But the rest of the situation was the typical cheap and weak builder grade garbage that every home in America is built with. The most useful thing was to replace the strike plate with a high-security one that anchors to the 2x4 studs that frame the doorway (not the cheesy wood that makes up the decorative door frame).
I can't find the exact version I used, they have two solid brass rods instead of one, but they are about the same length and they go through the frame and into the 2X4s. The strike plate is not going to fail unless they hit it with the tank.
Being a belt and suspenders kind of guy I also further hardened the frame by shooting some big 3 or 4 inch screws through the decorative frame and into the real wood framing. The small screws that hold the hinges were all replaced with the larger screws.
The worthless builder grade locks were replaced with quality
double-cylinder deadbolts with a
1" throw. Before installing the locks, I reinforced the door around the locks...
and during the installation I used cylinder guards.
And, then I replaced all the lock cylinders with high-security versions that are allegedly pick-proof and bump-proof. I prefer to think of them as pick and bump
resistant, because there is nothing burglar
proof.
BiLock - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
All that was based on 5 years as a patrol officer seeing 2-3 burglaries a day, and two-years as a property crimes detective investigating thousands of burglaries.
Since all that, after spending ten-years in narcotics kicking in doors and being some poor bastard's worst nightmare, I became more [-]scared[/-] conscious of the threat posed by home-invaders. So, I added the alarm system so I can maybe get those few extra seconds to wake up and grab a gun if need be. (Hey, it's my phobia and we all have something we are unreasonably afraid of. )
But, if/when I do it all over again in another house (or maybe some new doors as DW would like to have), then I would add one or two tricks that I've been thinking of. An additional deadlock, either on a different axis or at least a foot away from existing locks on the same axis. Something like an exit-only version
Locksmith Tool & Supply: 4800 Series Exit Only Deadlock , or a throw-bolt
Bright Brass & Aluminum Flush Bolts # SP265B3 by H.B. Ives
Metal frames are something I would love to have - but I'm still debating the cost of that.