What We're Making

[street]

Jerry1, looks like factory built and very creative solution.

RobbieB, very interesting project, and I like when an issue or problem can be fixed from DIY method.

 

[Ronstar]

Made a nightstand for the guest bedroom

 

[homestead]

Made a nightstand for the guest bedroom

Perfect!

 

[Koogie]

Made a nightstand for the guest bedroom

Nice ! Like how you mirrored the X pattern from the headboard in the side and back braces on the table.

 

[RobbieB]

Robbie likes it! Built hella strong like I do -

You could prop up cars on that or hide from earthquakes!

 

[Ronstar]

Perfect!

Nice ! Like how you mirrored the X pattern from the headboard in the side and back braces on the table.

Robbie likes it! Built hella strong like I do -

You could prop up cars on that or hide from earthquakes!

Thanks. Hopefully it is the last piece that I will have to paint.

 

[Ronstar]

Finished up my carbonator project. This is an aarke version, same concept as soda stream and uses the same bottles and gas cylinders.

The gas cylinders are brutally expensive to refill and have a device inside that will break and destroy the valve if filled too fast. I did figure out how to defeat this and have been filling from a large 20# tank. The twenty pound tank cost as much to fill as 2 (less that 1 pound each) SS cylinders. But the "inverted cylinder" method would not dispense the final 5 pounds of CO2.

This little project fixes that final problem;

I bought a 3 foot braided SS hose adapter and when I drain the last 410 gram SS bottle I'll hook it up to the big tank -

Nice build and great idea on the refill from a 20# tank. I wished that I would have thought of the refill idea when I was brewing / kegging my own beer. Getting a 5# tank filled is a pita. Had to drive 40 minutes and they were sometimes closed when I got there.

 

[Koogie]

Thanks. Hopefully it is the last piece that I will have to paint.

OTOH, I like to paint all my projects. Paint hides a multitude of sins...

I notice the table and the headboard had exceptionally fine surfaces. Was it melamine you used or are you that good at surfacing and finishing ?

 

[Ronstar]

OTOH, I like to paint all my projects. Paint hides a multitude of sins...



I notice the table and the headboard had exceptionally fine surfaces. Was it melamine you used or are you that good at surfacing and finishing ?

It’s poplar sanded to 220. Then zinsser BIN primer. Sanded to 220.

I used Annie Sloan chalk paint for finish coat, sanding between coats. Then Annie Sloan clear wax.

Hard to tell from photos, but I had a hard time controlling brush marks. But I guess that’s the look of chalk paint.

 

[Surewhitey]

It’s poplar sanded to 220. Then zinsser BIN primer. Sanded to 220.

I used Annie Sloan chalk paint for finish coat, sanding between coats. Then Annie Sloan clear wax.

Hard to tell from photos, but I had a hard time controlling brush marks. But I guess that’s the look of chalk paint.

Zinsser makes a great primer for smooth finishes. I personally use the shellac version with the hplv sprayer.

I re-newed a client's 50's bathroom with new doors and trim using the primer and good paint. I'm glad they kept the perfect condition tile and sink.

 

[Ronstar]

Very nice! Cabinets look great and it's good that your client wanted to keep the retro look.

 

[Koogie]

Wow. Another nice finish. What do you consider "good" paint ?

For the benefit of the beginners (and slow learners like me) would you mind also outlining your finishing process ? I did learn something from Ronstars explanation for instance as I wouldn't have thought of wax as a finishing coat over paint.

 

[harley]

Finishing is (IMO) the hardest part of woodworking. I would suggest subscribing to a couple of woodworking newsletters that are put out by the various magazines. Wood, Fine Woodworking, and Family Handyman are the ones I currently get. I believe you can get them without subscribing to the magazines. But they regularly have articles about finishing and painting that can be pretty useful.

I'm getting ready to refinish my front door. It's a fiberglass door with a wood grain built into it. I've refinished it 3 or 4 times already, but out here at the shore with the wind and sun nothing holds up very well. I think this time I'm going to use a gel stain, wiping on/off a whole bunch of coats. Then I'll cover it with marine grade polyurethane, again a number of coats. Hopefully it won't end up peeling off as quickly this time.

 

[street]

Started making a Ulu knife a few hours ago. Got everything done except shaping the grip. Letting JB Weld dry before doing the wood shaping.

 

[Surewhitey]

Wow. Another nice finish. What do you consider "good" paint ?

For the benefit of the beginners (and slow learners like me) would you mind also outlining your finishing process ? I did learn something from Ronstars explanation for instance as I wouldn't have thought of wax as a finishing coat over paint.

So for most cabinet jobs, I've narrowed down to what works well with an inexpensive HPLV sprayer. The fine mist spray really lays down a smooth finish if the paint is less thick. Also, most of what I spray is in the flat to reduce any runs. If I'm not in the flat, I just pay a little more attention to detail.

With that said, one of the best primers I've ever used and almost use exclusively now is Zinsser BIN shellac primer. It is perfect out of the can to spray, totally covers any dark areas completely and only takes 30-45 minutes to dry. Sanding lightly, it's silky smooth. Down side, cleaning requires denatured alcohol. And it is really a permanent product if you get it on you or your clothes. But the final product is worth it. I typically use a separate gun for my primer vs the paint...$45-50 / gal...

The paint I have come to love to spray is Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane trim paint. It's $95 / gallon, but you get what you pay for. I have an account that gets it down to $60 / gallon. I can do a complete, average kitchen (doors & exterior boxes) with 1 gallon and 2 coats on everything. I is also less thick and I may put 5-10% warm water to dilute it just a touch, but technically not necessary. It has a warm water & soap cleanup, so easier on cleaning the guns. Also, I spray doors and larger panels in cross patterns. Spray one direction and then perpendicular to that. Otherwise in large panels you may see the "strokes".

There are tons of videos on YouTube for painting. I like Paint life TV, personally. Also, for more on the carpentry side, Bourbon Moth is more interesting to watch and learn from.

 

[finnski1]

With that said, one of the best primers I've ever used and almost use exclusively now is Zinsser BIN shellac primer. It is perfect out of the can to spray, totally covers any dark areas completely and only takes 30-45 minutes to dry. Sanding lightly, it's silky smooth. Down side, cleaning requires denatured alcohol. And it is really a permanent product if you get it on you or your clothes. But the final product is worth it. I typically use a separate gun for my primer vs the paint...$45-50 / gal...

Zinnser BIN shellac primer is the only thing I tried that worked on painting my kitchen cabinets. They are pine with many knots and the shellac primer has not allowed any knots to show thru since I painted them several years ago. It has to be the shellac version. I tried the regular BIN stuff and it did not work . Neither dd the Kilz brand.

 

[Ronstar]

….I did learn something from Ronstars explanation for instance as I wouldn't have thought of wax as a finishing coat over paint.

I’ve only used Annie Sloan clear wax as a topcoat over Annie Sloan and Rustoleum chalk paints. Chalk paint needs a protective topcoat. And I’ve used minwax polycrylic as a topcoat for chalk paint also.

I’ve only used chalk paint 3 or 4 times. Most times I use Sherwood Williams pro classic. And I don’t use a topcoat over proclassic.

But I use zinsser bin primer on all wood projects that I paint.

 

[street]

I have made many knives through the years. There is nothing fancy about them but use them all the time. All my knives I use in the outdoors I make. I have about 3.5 hours in this one.
I will use it for the garden produce.

 

[Surewhitey]

I have made many knives through the years. There is nothing fancy about them but use them all the time. All my knives I use in the outdoors I make. I have about 3.5 hours in this one.
I will use it for the garden produce.

This could be my hobby of the future. I've thought about buying blanks & focusing on the wood handles, just haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

[Ronstar]

I have made many knives through the years. There is nothing fancy about them but use them all the time. All my knives I use in the outdoors I make. I have about 3.5 hours in this one.
I will use it for the garden produce.

Those are some awesome knives! You could be on History Channel's "Forged in Fire"

I've seen where people turn old table saw blade into knife blades. I may have to try one someday.

 

[street]

Surewhitey and Ronstar, I hope you do make some knifes. Mine are nothing special I like a project now and then I can do in a day times or two days. I have made many and I use then daily and through my hunting fishing interests. I have given many away through the years and people use them in life.
Here are a few I had a picture of. These are from heavy blades and I always use found wood for handles or horns. The ulu knife has burr oak as wood handle.

 

[pacergal]

nice knife handles, street!
My DH has been into making handles since retirement. He is not at the point of perfection as yours, but he is enjoying it and each time is happier with the outcome! It keeps him busy in his shed/office--lol. He is looking at starting wood carving sometime.

 

[street]

Pacergal, that is great. Being creative and using my imagination is what's fun I'm sure your husband can say the same.

Thanks

 

[Surewhitey]

Surewhitey and Ronstar, I hope you do make some knifes. Mine are nothing special I like a project now and then I can do in a day times or two days. I have made many and I use then daily and through my hunting fishing interests. I have given many away through the years and people use them in life.
Here are a few I had a picture of. These are from heavy blades and I always use found wood for handles or horns. The ulu knife has burr oak as wood handle.

Where do you get & what kind of metal do you use for your knives?

 

[street]

Where do you get & what kind of metal do you use for your knives?

I use old shovels, bandsaw blades, skill saw blades and old hand saw blades. A lot of that old tempered steel a guy can find at junk sales etc..

I hope you an find some material and start experimenting. Please keep us posted on your progress.