Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

.......... The starter is definitely bad, he tried hitting it with a hammer, but all it did was start smoking. It’s toast.
...........
Ace mechanic. :LOL:

Actually not as bad as it sounds. It was a last ditch effort to get one more start out of the starter. I’ve done that before and it actually works. That is, if it’s a stuck bendix. We both knew it was unlikely, but were willing to try anything at that moment.
 
Actually not as bad as it sounds. It was a last ditch effort to get one more start out of the starter. I’ve done that before and it actually works. That is, if it’s a stuck bendix. We both knew it was unlikely, but were willing to try anything at that moment.
I understand. I put myself through engineering school working as a mechanic. My mirth was directed at "all it did was start smoking".
 
My wife reported that the "service engine soon" light turned was illuminated on her Nissan 370z. I connected my Bluetooth OBD II reader and read a code of P0345 (camshaft position sensor). The local AAA recommended garage wanted $125 to diagnose the problem (i.e. read the fault code) and $350 to change the sensor. The Nissan dealer (also AAA recommended) wanted $150 to diagnose the problem and the sensor replacement would be $500 on top of that. I decided to order the OEM sensor from Amazon for $29.45 and do the work myself. A few years back I replaced the passenger side camshaft position sensor (Code P-0340) and it took about 30 minutes to complete. This time the sensor is on the driver's side.
 
Upcoming (hopefully) simple repair:

Yesterday youngest DS was over visiting to do his laundry. After an hour or so he found me and said the dryer will not start. His first dryer load ran fine, but when he tried to start the second load it would not start. Fortunately for a sudden failure like that I figured it was something basic, and it was - the door switch actuator tab had failed, it had worn to the point of breaking off.

I found the needed part on Amazon for less than $10 (including shipping) than should be here by Friday. I also found a YouTube video showing step-by-step how to change the door switch actuator for the exact same model dryer - amazing since the dryer is 20 years old. The only tools needed for the repair are a couple of screwdrivers and needle nose pliers. So hopefully this will not impact my weekend plans :).
 
One bathroom fan refused to start spinning. I had replaced it several years ago with an upgrade kit but the manufacturer discontinued that model in favor of a new one. Ordered that from Amazon but it wouldn’t fit the housing. I found the discontinued one online but Grainger canceled the order since they really didn’t have any. Found a replacement motor at the local Lowe’s but the mounting screws were on the wrong side.

So I finally did what I should have done in the first place, which was to blow the caked-on dust out and lubricate the motor shaft. Works great now. :facepalm:
 
Well sure, but you are not a professional mechanic.


You don't have to be an auto mechanic to do some basic repairs. Sensor replacements are expensive even though the parts are relatively inexpensive. The computer in your car diagnoses the problem for you. All you need to do is read the fault code. I leave the greasy jobs like changing oil to the dealer or garage.

The part arrived today and it took 45 minutes to fix (only because it was hard to reach). The fault code cleared after I replaced the part. The hesitation from the engine when starting went away. My wife is happy and we saved about $500 to $700 for a simple repair.
 
You don't have to be an auto mechanic to do some basic repairs. Sensor replacements are expensive even though the parts are relatively inexpensive. The computer in your car diagnoses the problem for you. All you need to do is read the fault code. I leave the greasy jobs like changing oil to the dealer or garage.

The part arrived today and it took 45 minutes to fix (only because it was hard to reach). The fault code cleared after I replaced the part. The hesitation from the engine when starting went away. My wife is happy and we saved about $500 to $700 for a simple repair.
I was joking. The "professional mechanics" were going to charge you $500 for a job that they could probably do in 20 minutes, having done it many times before and having any special tools. So, that is what, $1000+ an hour?
 
I was joking. The "professional mechanics" were going to charge you $500 for a job that they could probably do in 20 minutes, having done it many times before and having any special tools. So, that is what, $1000+ an hour?

The prices car garages and dealer repair centers are outrageous, like $125 for an air filter change. Many people don't maintain their cars as a result. Whatever we save with our DYI approach is spent on travel, leisure, and hobbies.
 
You don't have to be an auto mechanic to do some basic repairs. Sensor replacements are expensive even though the parts are relatively inexpensive. The computer in your car diagnoses the problem for you. All you need to do is read the fault code. I leave the greasy jobs like changing oil to the dealer or garage.

The part arrived today and it took 45 minutes to fix (only because it was hard to reach). The fault code cleared after I replaced the part. The hesitation from the engine when starting went away. My wife is happy and we saved about $500 to $700 for a simple repair.

Sweet savings :flowers:
 
I was joking. The "professional mechanics" were going to charge you $500 for a job that they could probably do in 20 minutes, having done it many times before and having any special tools. So, that is what, $1000+ an hour?

I got the joke.

But then I replace my own cabin and engine air filter for around $12 each :cool:
 
I got the joke.

But then I replace my own cabin and engine air filter for around $12 each :cool:

I change my own air and cabin filters, while I still get some free maintenance on my Hyundai.

When I change the filters I put the mileage in big marker letters on the filters, for the tech to see.

And I still get the time to change your filters advice at the dealer.
 
Sweet savings :flowers:

Sweet future savings also. I bought a set of 3 sensors and only one needed to be replaced per the fault code and Nissan service manual. So if the other sensors should fail, I have the parts on hand.
 

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Eight months into the year and we've replaced the following:

- Water softener (DIY, $675)
- Water heater (DIY, $400)
- Submersible well pump and well repairs ($4,250)
- Pressure/boost pump ($1,725)

$7,000+ spent so far, after an estimated savings of $3,000 on the two DIY repairs.

Can't help noting it has all been on the incoming side of the plumbing system and wondering what's next...
 
Eight months into the year and we've replaced the following:

- Water softener (DIY, $675)
- Water heater (DIY, $400)
- Submersible well pump and well repairs ($4,250)
- Pressure/boost pump ($1,725)

$7,000+ spent so far, after an estimated savings of $3,000 on the two DIY repairs.

Can't help noting it has all been on the incoming side of the plumbing system and wondering what's next...
Oh! I know! I know! Best to pre-empt it. Close all the bathroom doors, and hang "Out of Order" signs on all of them. Then go use the neighbor's instead! :angel:
 
Eight months into the year and we've replaced the following:

- Water softener (DIY, $675)
- Water heater (DIY, $400)
- Submersible well pump and well repairs ($4,250)
- Pressure/boost pump ($1,725)

$7,000+ spent so far, after an estimated savings of $3,000 on the two DIY repairs.

Can't help noting it has all been on the incoming side of the plumbing system and wondering what's next...


Output system check?
 
Oh! I know! I know! Best to pre-empt it. Close all the bathroom doors, and hang "Out of Order" signs on all of them. Then go use the neighbor's instead! :angel:

You have obviously forgotten we live out in the sticks and would have to wade through the scorpions, ticks, chiggers, rattlesnakes, tarantulas and vinegaroons to make that trip. DW would not be amused...
 
Upcoming (hopefully) simple repair:

Yesterday youngest DS was over visiting to do his laundry. After an hour or so he found me and said the dryer will not start. His first dryer load ran fine, but when he tried to start the second load it would not start. Fortunately for a sudden failure like that I figured it was something basic, and it was - the door switch actuator tab had failed, it had worn to the point of breaking off.

I found the needed part on Amazon for less than $10 (including shipping) than should be here by Friday. I also found a YouTube video showing step-by-step how to change the door switch actuator for the exact same model dryer - amazing since the dryer is 20 years old. The only tools needed for the repair are a couple of screwdrivers and needle nose pliers. So hopefully this will not impact my weekend plans :).

The part arrived yesterday. The repair last night was as easy as the video showed. We have a dryer again, yay! :)
 
Oh! I know! I know! Best to pre-empt it. Close all the bathroom doors, and hang "Out of Order" signs on all of them. Then go use the neighbor's instead! :angel:


I have a BIL that owns a standard 3bd 2bth home, he used the bath of the master bdr as storage. (huh) Then he also has a 5 gallon bucket in the other bathtub with a cup. Uses the cup to dip water from the bucket to bath with. Maybe normal where he is from, but I will gladly spend the money on water and energy for the simple pleasure of a hot shower.
 
Had a free(almost) and easy repair yesterday.
Decided to rearrange the "library" area of the house(it rained a lot what else was I gonna do) and in the process it meant moving my 27 year old audio equipment.
After all furniture was rearranged, fired up the stereo and only one channel works. After swapping cables etc discovered it was the right channel in the power amplifier.
I vaguely remembered fixing this once years ago. A quick googling and I found and remembered there are 4 internal fuses, 2 for each channel.
Well lo and behold in the desk drawer is the exact 4amp, 250v glass fuse required, in fact there is a package of 4.
So about a half hour later(most of the time was extracting it from the cable mess in the cabinet and removing a dozen tiny screws) it was all fixed.
Didn't have to go anywhere or order anything. My favorite kind of fix.:)
Also last week I installed a new alternator and serpentine belt on the Toyota Tacoma. The belt split in half after the alternator bearing seized up.
Only cost me $200 as a DIY. Probably saved $300 or so.
Yeah I know, not terribly exciting stuff nor lots of money but at least I got it in the right thread forum.:LOL:
 
My 2009 Nissan Versa has developed a hum from the blower motor fan (heater, vents, a/c) in position 3 and 4. Looked at Youtube videos. The 2 suggestions were to check for clogged in-cabin air filter, and clogged fan. Both supposedly easy. Tried filter first. Grab, pull, twist, yank, finagle, wiggle, curse. Nothing. Won't budge. Afraid to break it. Gave up for now. Then tried removing the fan. Just supposed to twist it clockwise and pop it out. Nope. Same problem. Won't budge, afraid to break it, or sprain a tendon. Stumped so far. Living with hum. Will have to look again at more Youtube videos, I guess. The Youtube videos used to be so useful, what happened?
 
My 2009 Nissan Versa has developed a hum from the blower motor fan (heater, vents, a/c) in position 3 and 4. Looked at Youtube videos. The 2 suggestions were to check for clogged in-cabin air filter, and clogged fan. Both supposedly easy. Tried filter first. Grab, pull, twist, yank, finagle, wiggle, curse. Nothing. Won't budge. Afraid to break it. Gave up for now. Then tried removing the fan. Just supposed to twist it clockwise and pop it out. Nope. Same problem. Won't budge, afraid to break it, or sprain a tendon. Stumped so far. Living with hum. Will have to look again at more Youtube videos, I guess. The Youtube videos used to be so useful, what happened?
I've literally found dead mice in my blower causing the same noises. They ate all the cabin air filter as well and nested in there. The noise was from the fan not running well but what worse was the awful smell I had until I cleaned everything out:facepalm:
 
Well, not "repaired" yet, but finally tore down the '57 VW's engine to find the root cause of the knocking..... a "floppy" con rod on #4. Relieved that there seems to be no damage to the engine case that is original to the car. Best case, a rebuilt con rod with new bearings, worst case, it might have trashed the crank and I'd be in for a new one of those.


Disappointing that this happened only about 200 miles after rebuild. I do think that my friend who rebuilt it to short block knew what he was doing, but probably missed something.
 

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Well, not "repaired" yet, but finally tore down the '57 VW's engine to find the root cause of the knocking..... a "floppy" con rod on #4. Relieved that there seems to be no damage to the engine case that is original to the car. Best case, a rebuilt con rod with new bearings, worst case, it might have trashed the crank and I'd be in for a new one of those.


Disappointing that this happened only about 200 miles after rebuild. I do think that my friend who rebuilt it to short block knew what he was doing, but probably missed something.


Good luck and glad the case is not damaged. When I rebuilt engines (many of them, including VW of your vintage), I checked the rod and main bearing clearances with Plastigage before I buttoned it up. Plus, I used a bit of Lubriplate or similar on the bearing/crank interface. I wonder if the problem had to do with improper bearing clearance of oil too hot type failure?
 
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