Outdoor lighting and wiring protection

statsman

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With our old house in California, we were able to wire up the few outdoor light displays we had during the holidays and keep the wiring/extension cord connections out of the elements.

With our house here in Texas, DW has decided she wants several more light strings in the front yard, including on two small trees and on some lawn stakes. We have two outdoor electrical outlets available on each side of our front porch (covered, GFCI). But most of the connections between the light fixtures, etc., and the extension cords will be out in the elements.

What do you use to protect these connections? Suggestions seem to be all over the map. Most times, the recommendations involve connecting a single light source (string, display, etc.) to an extension cord. But what if you are connecting light strings together in order to wrap a tree or for lawn stakes around the yard. Any suggestions for protecting those connections?
 
As long as the connections are not sitting in a pool of water, the chances are they'll be okay. If there's a short, the GFCI will kick it off.

You could wrap the connections with a large Baggie and duck tape.

I've got an extension cord going to a sump pump below my swimming pool, and I have no problem with the connection open to the elements.
 
We use plastic cling wrap and duct tape for the plug connections. Through rain and snow, we’ve never had a problem.
 
I'd also go with the use of plastic wrap around the connections if you are worried. Mine are semi-protected, under the porch roof or garage eaves, so they don't get much direct weather exposure, so I don't bother. But I used to do some trees out in the open, I have wrapped a few connections that I thought might get water into them, but wasn't 100% on that, and never had a problem.

Oh.... TEST YOUR GFCI!!! Hit the test button to ensure it switches off, then reset it. I actually had one fail stuck ON, which surprised me, I figured they would be designed to fail-safe, but that's not always possible, or 100%.

-ERD50
 
I've never had a problem with light string connections getting wet. Or any other outdoor extension cords either. Most have evidence of dirt and oxidation, still work fine.
 
The plastic wrap suggestion gives me an idea. We have some leftover plastic stretch wrap (green, small 5") that's used when packing items for a move. We barely used ours as the movers used their own. Seems I should be able to get a reasonably tight wrap around the cord connections without it getting too bulky. I don't expect it to be waterproof. Just some extra protection to reduced the probability of the GFCIs tripping.

Thinking back, I did use some duct tape on a few connections, which worked, but removing the tape left a sticky residue.

The GFCIs in the house were tested a few months ago as part of a house inspection for our home warranty with the builder (extended due to COVID-19; at least something positive came from that disaster). I'll double-check the two outlets off the front porch and the one in the garage that are being used.
 
I just try to position the socket end in a way that it’s not facing up and unable to collect water. I do like it better when it’s under some cover, but I don’t wrap any of the connections. Never had any issues, shorts, anything.
 
I use ziplock sandwich bags, put one end in the bag, zip it shut, make a small hole to get the other end in the bag, and then use plastic ties to close the bag around the wires.
Leaving the connection in the bag.

I never thought of using cling wrap, which seems to be another good idea.
 
You can also buy cord protectors from hardware stores, like this one for about $6. Not as frugal as Baggies and duct tape, but still pretty cheap and very effective.
 
With our old house in California, we were able to wire up the few outdoor light displays we had during the holidays and keep the wiring/extension cord connections out of the elements.

With our house here in Texas, DW has decided she wants several more light strings in the front yard, including on two small trees and on some lawn stakes. We have two outdoor electrical outlets available on each side of our front porch (covered, GFCI). But most of the connections between the light fixtures, etc., and the extension cords will be out in the elements.

What do you use to protect these connections? Suggestions seem to be all over the map. Most times, the recommendations involve connecting a single light source (string, display, etc.) to an extension cord. But what if you are connecting light strings together in order to wrap a tree or for lawn stakes around the yard. Any suggestions for protecting those connections?

good timing. i'm putting in two 120v dusk-dawn floodlights to illuminate our American flag at night. one will require an ourdoor rated extension cord. i was wondering how to protect the extension cord/pigtail on the flood light connection from the elements. as often happens a search on Amazon for one thing turned up these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2281D1/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_jLb0FbX8H5BGR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
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In our current home's Xmas lighting scheme, we have a fair amount of plugs being semi-exposed. Semi being not covered. It consists of daisy-chained strings of LED lights, a few blow-molded characters plus 9-10 extension cords connecting to them all. They are run on 2 separate circuits, both on GFCI devices. For over 15 years here, we have never felt the need for covering all of the plugs. Some wiring/plugs sit on the ground under rain/snow etc (when we have snow) I know of the possible issues. I trust the GFCI's to do their job. We have never tripped a GFCI. Covering with tie-wrapped bags would not prevent water from getting to the plugs/sockets.

If they were required to be covered from the elements, I'm certain some warning would have been required by UL to be included on the strings of lights and the "outdoor" rated extension cords. Certainly do what helps you sleep at night.

BTW, a short from line to neutral will not trip a GFCI. They are designed to detect leakage to ground.
 
BTW, a short from line to neutral will not trip a GFCI. They are designed to detect leakage to ground.
I was wondering about that. The LED light strings I have seen, whether just strings or attached to fixtures (trees, deer, Santas, etc) are always two-pronged with no ground prong. In many cases, the male and female plugs are not polarized.
 
My wife is nutty for Christmas lighting. I have noticed that she is switching over to led lighting now which all seem to have a transformer that steps the voltage way down and to dc from ac. She has a little tester she uses indoors on the that is powered by a couple of tiny batteries. The led’s also allow easy color changes and blinking patterns and our new ones even have a day night sensor that turns them on at dusk and off at 11pm.
 
....

BTW, a short from line to neutral will not trip a GFCI. They are designed to detect leakage to ground.

I was wondering about that. The LED light strings I have seen, whether just strings or attached to fixtures (trees, deer, Santas, etc) are always two-pronged with no ground prong. In many cases, the male and female plugs are not polarized.

CRLLS is correct. The GFCI protects against a common risk - someone comes into contact with the "hot" (line is another term for it) while they also have some contact to "ground", which can be actual damp ground, or some other grounded object.

Normally, ALL the current flows from the "hot" side back to the "neutral" side (the wide plug on a polarized plug). The GFCI detects any small imbalance between these currents, which means some current is leaking to ground.

But if the person touches both prongs, they are completing the circuit from hot to neutral (just like any light bulb or appliance), and the GFCI thinks all is well, while you are being fried!

So it makes no difference if the plug is polarized or not, or if it has a ground. The reason some appliances have a ground, is so that any internal fault shunts current to ground (usually a metal case), protecting the user from being that path to ground, and will also blow a GFCI if in use.

-ERD50
 
CRLLS is correct. The GFCI protects against a common risk - someone comes into contact with the "hot" (line is another term for it) while they also have some contact to "ground", which can be actual damp ground, or some other grounded object.

Normally, ALL the current flows from the "hot" side back to the "neutral" side (the wide plug on a polarized plug). The GFCI detects any small imbalance between these currents, which means some current is leaking to ground.

But if the person touches both prongs, they are completing the circuit from hot to neutral (just like any light bulb or appliance), and the GFCI thinks all is well, while you are being fried!

So it makes no difference if the plug is polarized or not, or if it has a ground. The reason some appliances have a ground, is so that any internal fault shunts current to ground (usually a metal case), protecting the user from being that path to ground, and will also blow a GFCI if in use.

-ERD50
Typically, if you grab both line and neutral with the same hand, you will of course feel the shock. It is highly unlikely that you will suffer any permanent damage, possibly an electrical burn, if that. The electrical path is not through the heart, just from finger to finger. However, should you grab line with one hand and neutral with the other, all bets are off. I have done a similar shock test on my forearm under controlled, lab conditions in a safety engineering class. The theory is sound. I'm not suggesting anyone test this themselves.
 
Well, that was an unnerving couple of posts. :confused:
 
It looks like I'm the dissenter here. I've been putting on a rather large home Christmas display for over 8 years, synchronized to music. I have over 100 extension cords in my front yard. I do not ever recommend trying to keep the water out with wrap, tape or covers. Water will eventually get in become trapped and not dissipate or evaporate. I leave on ground even in snow.
 
It looks like I'm the dissenter here. I've been putting on a rather large home Christmas display for over 8 years, synchronized to music. I have over 100 extension cords in my front yard. I do not ever recommend trying to keep the water out with wrap, tape or covers. Water will eventually get in become trapped and not dissipate or evaporate. I leave on ground even in snow.

Nope. I concur with you. I think bags or coverings can trap moisture too. I leave everything wide open. In the few times we've had snow, it is a wonderful, wonderful effect seeing the lights under the snow.

I've been putting out displays for 32 years, with no coverings. My extension cords terminate inside (cord under garage door) on a GFCI. I have all kinds of connections including multi-plug converters that are open to the elements when I need only 2 of 3. I pay attention to load to assure the cord is not overloaded. That's easy now with LEDs.

In those years, I can only remember one trip on the GFCI, and one internal fuse blown. This was AFTER rabbits or squirrels ate the string.

Regarding the shock talk above, recall that almost all these lights have internal fuses in their plug.
 
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It looks like I'm the dissenter here. I've been putting on a rather large home Christmas display for over 8 years, synchronized to music. I have over 100 extension cords in my front yard. I do not ever recommend trying to keep the water out with wrap, tape or covers. Water will eventually get in become trapped and not dissipate or evaporate. I leave on ground even in snow.

That's a valid point. It might still be a good idea to cover a connection to shield it from the elements, while still leaving it open so moisture is not trapped - like putting a bag over the top, with a slit in it so it is open at the bottom.

Probably not needed, but I still don't like the idea of ice/snow/water in that connection.

One thing I will advise though: Where your cord gets plugged into the outlet, leave it draped down before it reaches the outlet (a "drip loop"). That will keep water from dripping down the cord and into the outlet, which could be bad (or at least cause a nuisance trip of the GFCI). Here's an example with a tile wet saw (p12):

https://www.rikontools.com/manuals/14-700.pdf

-ERD50
 
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