Plumbing (toilet repair) question

[Jerry1]

One of my toilets just started making a hissing sound when it fills the tank. My inclination is to get a new fill valve for it. So I found that part online (see link below) and was about to buy it (it’s part #1 - $40.09) when I looked at the next part (cap assembly - $5.87) and wondered if I should just get that.

Beyond saving money on the part, the installation would be a lot easier to just replace the cap assembly. They even call it the “fill valve repair kit”. Do you see any reason to not just get the cap assembly? It doesn’t look like there are any other functional parts in the fill valve that I would get by buying the entire valve versus just the cap. Would I be being penny wise and pound foolish? It doesn’t seem so.


https://www.plumbingsupply.com/americanstandardtoiletparts-vormax.html

 

[Happyras]

My first inclination would be to buy a full fluidmaster assembly from Home Depot or Lowes for <$10 and be done, or am I missing something here.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-400A-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467

 

[HawkeyeNFO]

Need more details. Did you shut off the water and look at the parts? Need to figure out what is broken before throwing parts at it. That said, it's only $40.

 

[aja8888]

Take the cover off the tank and look inside while you flush it. Maybe the small fill hose fell out of it's clip. Toilets are pretty easy to troubleshoot.

 

[Jerry1]

My first inclination would be to buy a full fluidmaster assembly from Home Depot or Lowes for <$10 and be done, or am I missing something here.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-400A-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467

Interesting. In general, I’d prefer an exact replacement part. That looks the same, but before I drain the water and make a mess, I’d like to be sure I have a correct part. Plus, I’m still intrigued with just replacing the functioning part and saving the trouble of draining the tank, etc.

 

[Jerry1]

Need more details. Did you shut off the water and look at the parts? Need to figure out what is broken before throwing parts at it. That said, it's only $40.

I’m sure it’s the fill valve making the noise. It’s operating properly (the float is moving, the water is shutting off at the right level . . . If there’s no other functional part, the cap assembly seems like a proper/easy fix.

Take the cover off the tank and look inside while you flush it. Maybe the small fill hose fell out of it's clip. Toilets are pretty easy to troubleshoot.

It wasn’t the fill hose. I was hoping for that.

 

[Time2]

I spent more to get what I thought was an old style better toilet fill valve. Picture below.

After slightly more than two years it started leaking. I bought a seal kit and installed it, that didn't stop the valve for continuing to leak. I consulted a Plumber forum and was told just get a Fluidmaster, they work well. So I did!
I wrote the date on the inside of the water tank, we'll see how long it lasts.

 

[pb4uski]

I’m sure it’s the fill valve making the noise. It’s operating properly (the float is moving, the water is shutting off at the right level . . . If there’s no other functional part, the cap assembly seems like a proper/easy fix. ...

We had a fill valve that was making a hissing noise. I turned down the water pressure at the toilet valve a tad and the hissing went away.

I'm guessing that it was too much water pressure that was causing the hissing noise. You might give that a try before buying and replacing parts.

 

[Jerry1]

My first inclination would be to buy a full fluidmaster assembly from Home Depot or Lowes for <$10 and be done, or am I missing something here.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-400A-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467

Well, this was more helpful than I thought. In the comments section someone talks about hissing and the manufacturer responded. Basically dirt or something OR, the flap is bad.

I’ll take it apart and see if cleaning it fixes it. However, it sounds like the rebuild kit will fix the problem if the flap is bad.

Thanks.

 

[Jerry1]

We had a fill valve that was making a hissing noise. I turned down the water pressure at the toilet valve a tad and the hissing went away.

I'm guessing that it was too much water pressure that was causing the hissing noise. You might give that a try before buying and replacing parts.

I live in an old house (1956). I worry enough when I have to turn the valve off completely. I’m not sure I’d trust it at anything other that all open or all closed.

 

[mountainsoft]

My first inclination would be to buy a full fluidmaster assembly from Home Depot or Lowes for <$10 and be done, or am I missing something here.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fluidmaster-400A-Universal-Toilet-Fill-Valve-400ARP25/100554467

Yep, there's only two moving parts in the tank, the fill valve and the flushing flapper. Any time I have an issue with a toilet I just replace everything with new parts like the Fluidmaster. They're cheap, work well, and much easier than trying to source original parts.

 

[tryan]

Same fill valve ~$10 at home depot or lowes

 

[Jerry1]

Same fill valve ~$10 at home depot or lowes

Yes. I confirmed it’s the same valve. Interesting - $30 difference

I went ahead and ordered the cap assembly (fill valve repair kit). I got two caps as I have another toilet exactly the same. I got both, including shipping for $20 so $10 per toilet - not bad.

It totally makes sense to have just bought the complete new valve, but rebuilding the cap seems way easier, so I chose that option. No draining the tank or making sure the new seal doesn’t drip plus no working the valve into position and readjusting the water level stop. All easy things, but not having to do them will be better. I’ll report back. Thanks all for the help.

 

[zinger1457]

If replacing the entire fill valve any universal fill valve will work, don't need the exact same replacement. Sometimes just removing the fill valve cap and cleaning it out will fix it. Mineral deposits collect inside over time reducing the seal.

 

[thod]

Literally, just replaced the flush valve in one of our toilets. Took me 15 minutes (not including the trip to the store to buy it.)

Replacing the flapper would have taken longer, but it was not the problem.
Only tools needed was an adjustable wrench, sponge, bucket, plumbers' tape, and paper towels.

The valve cost $9.72 (including tax).

 

[target2019]

I live in an old house (1956). I worry enough when I have to turn the valve off completely. I’m not sure I’d trust it at anything other that all open or all closed.

I posted about my old shut-off valve under the tank. It so happens that I did get the replacement part you mention.

But the shutoff valve leaked even more, being so old. The water supply line runs from the basement, under a slab. When I thought in depth about that, I decided to install a shutoff in the basement, before the supply goes under the slab.

I hired a plumbing company to fix a half-dozen problems throughout our house including that shut-off valve.

After, I replaced the entire valve assembly as well as the cartridge seal in the toilet.

You can try that minor repair, but the shut-valve is a wildcard, right?

 

[Winemaker]

You don't have to change the whole fill valve. Shut water off. You can 1) replace the black washer in the cap, just make sure the new washer is clean and the area where it sits is clean. No grit or pipe gunk. Or 2) Lift up the sliding ring on the fill valve, and the pull the upper length of the fill valve off the lower stem. Practice on the new one. After removing the old one, insert the new one and align. Push the sliding ring back down the shaft to install. don't forget to install fill hose and secure.

You don't have to drain the tank, changeout will take 2 minutes if you are slow.

 

[Jerry1]

You don't have to change the whole fill valve. Shut water off. You can 1) replace the black washer in the cap, just make sure the new washer is clean and the area where it sits is clean. No grit or pipe gunk. Or 2) Lift up the sliding ring on the fill valve, and the pull the upper length of the fill valve off the lower stem. Practice on the new one. After removing the old one, insert the new one and align. Push the sliding ring back down the shaft to install. don't forget to install fill hose and secure.

Thanks for the direction.

You don't have to drain the tank, changeout will take 2 minutes if you are slow.

That’s what I’m hoping.

 

[Jerry1]

I posted about my old shut-off valve under the tank. It so happens that I did get the replacement part you mention.

But the shutoff valve leaked even more, being so old. The water supply line runs from the basement, under a slab. When I thought in depth about that, I decided to install a shutoff in the basement, before the supply goes under the slab.

I hired a plumbing company to fix a half-dozen problems throughout our house including that shut-off valve.

After, I replaced the entire valve assembly as well as the cartridge seal in the toilet.

You can try that minor repair, but the shut-valve is a wildcard, right?

Your post made me realize that I don’t need to close the shut off valve. I can just turn off the main (a nice new ball valve) and not have to worry about the valve.

I think the valve is okay though. I installed the toilet when I bought the house 7 years ago and about 3 years ago I installed a bidet. However. Shutting off the main will be easier and eliminate any potential valve problems for this repair.

 

[Winemaker]

Your post made me realize that I don’t need to close the shut off valve. I can just turn off the main (a nice new ball valve) and not have to worry about the valve.

I think the valve is okay though. I installed the toilet when I bought the house 7 years ago and about 3 years ago I installed a bidet. However. Shutting off the main will be easier and eliminate any potential valve problems for this repair.

I have had troubles with main valves as well. Just beware. If you do shut off the main, change the shut off while you at it. That may take more than a few minutes.

 

[Jerry1]

I have had troubles with main valves as well. Just beware. If you do shut off the main, change the shut off while you at it. That may take more than a few minutes.

When I moved into this house, I did a lot of work. One thing being replacing the main shut off. There were other plumbing issues in that same area so a no brainer. I just wish I’d have thought to do the toilet shut offs. Ugh.

 

[Winemaker]

When I moved into this house, I did a lot of work. One thing being replacing the main shut off. There were other plumbing issues in that same area so a no brainer. I just wish I’d have thought to do the toilet shut offs. Ugh.

Whenever a tenant moves out of one of my units, (they're usually long term), I change out all shutoffs. This eliminates many headaches and is great insurance that any calls I get, are held to a minimum of my time.

 

[ncbill]

Debris can get into the fill valve and cause noises or slow refilling.

Even the vaunted Fluidmaster fill assembly is not immune, but it easy to clean those by:

1. cutting off the water, rotating the top cap 1/8" turn to remove it, holding a cup over the open top,

2. cutting on the water briefly to flush out debris (cup diverts the water back into the tank) then cut water off & reinstall the cap

Had to do that last year for a Fluidmaster fill valve I had installed at least a decade before.