Roof Material Debate

I finally bit the bullet about 10 yrs ago and had a metal roof installed. After 3 shingle replacements in the past 35+ yrs with high quality shingles I was tired of their fast deterioration in my hot, humid, and hurricane prone area and the constant problem with a leaking roof. I have now been free from those problems and free from worry. I should have done this 35 yrs ago.


Cheers!
 
There is a home a coupe miles away from us that has a metal roof that is copper colored.... I don't think it is real copper, just painted a copper color... it looks really sharp.

I'm not sure where thye got it as I haven't seen that color anywhere else.

If it turns green you'll know it's real copper.
 
I am sure that roof material has changed over the years (I hope so as I paid for the top asphalt)...


But, 15 or so years ago my BIL was a bidder for a roof company... he said that the 30 year roof was the exact same the 20 year roof... the extra cost was just to cover costs for any warranty work plus some profit...


Remember, there are few claims on the life of a roof as people move all the time...
 
Well, the adjuster was here today and his recommendation to the insurance company is a new roof. So, I already gave one supplier the sf of roof and asked for a price for metal material. I will see what he comes up with. I have know idea what I will receive in payment.

My son has just went through this and got a little over 50K for siding and roof. Contractor is suppose to start on siding sometime this fall yet. He wants the shingling done next year in the heat of the summer for a good lay down seal.
 
I live in rainy western Oregon. House built 11 years ago, and we specified 50-year architectural composition (asphalt) shingles. 11 years in they still look good. And yes, when our house construction was done, I did register with the shingle manufacturer for their warranty coverage, so if 20 or 30 years from now their product comes up short, I can make my claim---if I am still alive!
 
This house and our last house are both thatched roofs. Don't think my experience will help you guys.

Although during my career as a builder did all kinds. Really depends on your house structure and local climate.
 
Shingle warranties have changed over the years but last time I checked (10+yrs ago) they were prorated and did not cover labor. So an average $30/sq after X years will only cover a small percentage of the shingle cost but no labor.
Just the cost of the Shingles for a modest 1500sq ft home is about $2k. Then there is the labor, any underlayment, 6 nails/shingle, etc. costs. If you are then allowed a prorated 20% on your warranty you will be covered for about $400. Then you start all over again.

As I said this may have changed since I stopped using shingles but then you pay for a better shingle or better warranty. When I compared the best shingle on the market vs standing seam metal roof that had better longevity with very little chance of leaking and less concern over weather damage it was an easy choice for me.


Cheers!
 
Metal "long run" color steel roofs are very common in New Zealand and have been for decades. Another benefit is for rural homes to use the roof as a rain collector to fill the water tanks. Not sure you'd want to collect rain off asphalt roofing tiles.


https://www.metalcraftgroup.co.nz/products/metal-tiles/

Metal tile make a beautiful roof but the cost is one of the most expensive.

I knew a few people that tried to make a claim on shingles. The last I heard from one guy is the process has been a nightmare. I guess in both cases the shingle companies fight back with every thing possible, so you finally just walk away. Shingle companies know giving that hard stance from the beginning will stop many from proceeding. If you hire a lawyer, it would be better to just take the lose on the shingle claim because of cost.
 
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I live in rainy western Oregon. House built 11 years ago, and we specified 50-year architectural composition (asphalt) shingles. 11 years in they still look good. And yes, when our house construction was done, I did register with the shingle manufacturer for their warranty coverage, so if 20 or 30 years from now their product comes up short, I can make my claim---if I am still alive!
good luck with that. I built my house 35 years ago and put on steel siding with a 40 year warranty against fading and blistering of the paint. after 20 years the side of the house that gets the most sun faded badly and I went to check on the warranty and found that the business had changed to another owner and the warranty was worthless. the original seller was us steel. figure that one out.
 
We had damage a few years ago. I didn't think I had any damage but I got my insurance out to look at it. Sure enough, I needed a new roof. Opted for a metal roof and also did Hardiplank. With a lighter color on the roof and added insulation with the Hardiplank, my electric bill here in south Texas took a significant dive. I haven't noticed a great deal of difference with the sound of precipitation. It was expensive but buffered by the insurance for the old roof. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.
 
I will be having an adjuster over early next week to look at my roof from wind damage in June. I replaced what was blown off from old ones I picked after storm and I had a new bundle of the same in the garage.

If I do get help to replace the roof I been considering tin. What kind of roof material do you have and what is your thoughts on tin versus asphalt?

Is there another product out there that I need to consider using?

What are your experiences of the different materials used on roofs?

Shingles can be installed using 6 nails instead of the typical 4 nails. Plus you have to make sure the nails are long enough. Some shingle manufacturer allow application of asphalt cement to reinforce the nails. Another issue is the underlying decking. Some decking uses boards with gap to allow expansion. If the nail is in these gaps, the holding power will decline. My recommendation: talk to an experienced roofer in your area or the shingle manufacturer.
 
Music Lover, I see a lot of roofers using that product or a similar one to that one.

vchan2177, that is a good thing to see what is recommend from manufacture. I have seen some of those nails and they aren't very long at all.

WWDog, I'm waiting to hear from insurance on what I will receive for replacement. I might have a contractor do the house in metal, and I will do garage. Garage is attached but no valley's and is a simple roof to do. I could do it in a day with tear off and metal roof in place easily. I will have to see the difference thou and then make a decision. I won't do anything till next spring early summer any way. Getting to cold here now for a good seal down.
 
Our prior home had slate, and we did the same with a big room addition. Lasts for 75+ years, but it's excruciating up front (including very steep pitch on the roof).

FWIW, in laws paid $$$$ for a 35 year asphalt shingle roof in 1991 in southern Missouri and it still has 5-6 years left, per recent inspection....
 
Music Lover, I see a lot of roofers using that product or a similar one to that one.

One of the benefits for DIYers is that it goes on fast...it took 2 of us 90 minutes to completely cover a 1200 sq ft roof. The roof is instantly watertight and you have piece of mind if rain is in the forecast.
 
I reroofed my shingled house recently and I recall the manufacturer specify a minimum 3/4 inch nail penetration into the deck. If your deck is only 1/2 inch thick, then you cannot use smooth nails. The nails with the greatest holding power are ringed shanked and large nail head diameter. 1/2 inch smooth roofing nails simply do not have sufficient holding power. Florida experiences hurricane winds so some counties in Florida has stringent roofing requirements so I suggest going online to determine the local roofing requirements. Most roofing shingle manufacturers will specifically state that the local ordinances on roofing preempted their roofing instructions because the local ordinances are stricter than the manufacturer.
 
We have asphalt shingles, but live in an HOA and that's what is required. If I could, I always wanted a metal roof. Especially in New England with the snow.
 
Shingles can be installed using 6 nails instead of the typical 4 nails. Plus you have to make sure the nails are long enough. Some shingle manufacturer allow application of asphalt cement to reinforce the nails. Another issue is the underlying decking. Some decking uses boards with gap to allow expansion. If the nail is in these gaps, the holding power will decline. My recommendation: talk to an experienced roofer in your area or the shingle manufacturer.

We had our roof shingled a few years back. IIRC the mfgr called for 4 nails min. For that I got 110MPH wind resistance guarantee. If the installer used 6 nails, the resistance increased to 130 MPH. Of course I told them 6 nails each. FWIW, every shingle except the top row, actually gets 12 nails. 6 along the shingle's nailing line and 6 more from the next row up The nailing line overlaps the top ~1" of the row below. I just built a shed and did the same 6 nails per. Easy to do and better results.
 
We had our roof shingled a few years back. IIRC the mfgr called for 4 nails min. For that I got 110MPH wind resistance guarantee. If the installer used 6 nails, the resistance increased to 130 MPH. Of course I told them 6 nails each. FWIW, every shingle except the top row, actually gets 12 nails. 6 along the shingle's nailing line and 6 more from the next row up The nailing line overlaps the top ~1" of the row below. I just built a shed and did the same 6 nails per. Easy to do and better results.

I agree. With 12 nails (6 in the middle and 6 at the top, the shingle will be very hard to blow off.

My GAF shingles instructions states the following nail requirements: 3/8 inch diameter nail head and long enough for 3/4 penetration into the wood decking.

1 inch roofing nails may not get you the 3/4 inch penetration into the wood decking when you subtract the thickness of the underlayment and the thickness of the two shingles. I used 1-1/4 inch roofing nails in my bosnitch nail gun when I re-roofed my house. I used 1-3/4 inch roofing nails for the hips and ridges because the hip and ridge shingles are much thicker.

However, I have seen 1 inch roofing nails used by the previous roofer, but I consider 1 inch roofing nails to be too short. If your deck is less than 3/4 inch thick, then you should consider using special roofing nails with ring shank surface instead of smooth surfaced nails.
 
FWIW, in laws paid $$$$ for a 35 year asphalt shingle roof in 1991 in southern Missouri and it still has 5-6 years left, per recent inspection....

The early-mid 90s were terrible years for composite shingles, followed by a bunch of class-action suits that weren't worth participating in. CertainTeed, Owens-Corning and GAF all settled lawsuits for producing substandard products.
 
The early-mid 90s were terrible years for composite shingles, followed by a bunch of class-action suits that weren't worth participating in. CertainTeed, Owens-Corning and GAF all settled lawsuits for producing substandard products.

That is interesting!! I beleive those three you mentioned are in the top 5 best shingle company's as of today.
 
We replaced ours with a metal roof almost 18 years now and quite happy with it. It’s not common in Southern California as most replacements are tile roofs, after much research my decision on the metal shingles are due to light weight and longevity. A friend from Hawaii suggested that as well since metal roofs are popular there. The house was originally a wood shingle roof in the fifties then replaced with tile roof in the eighties, I noticed a few cracks on the stucco walls and since the roof was replaced, there’s no cracks inside or outside the house. I think the light weight roof would be good for upcoming earthquakes too. It was about 15% more than tile roof then. Good luck with your decision!
 

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We replaced ours with a metal roof almost 18 years now and quite happy with it. It’s not common in Southern California as most replacements are tile roofs, after much research my decision on the metal shingles are due to light weight and longevity. A friend from Hawaii suggested that as well since metal roofs are popular there. The house was originally a wood shingle roof in the fifties then replaced with tile roof in the eighties, I noticed a few cracks on the stucco walls and since the roof was replaced, there’s no cracks inside or outside the house. I think the light weight roof would be good for upcoming earthquakes too. It was about 15% more than tile roof then. Good luck with your decision!

Pics attached
 

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The early-mid 90s were terrible years for composite shingles, followed by a bunch of class-action suits that weren't worth participating in. CertainTeed, Owens-Corning and GAF all settled lawsuits for producing substandard products.

The lawsuit is about products manufactured a long time ago or prior to 2009 as noted in the following:

GAF Timberline® Shingles Settlement (roofsettlement.com)

Currently GAF provides a lifetime warranty under certain installation and other certain conditions. This means that there are a lot of conditions in their limited lifetime warranty as noted in the following.

https://www.gaf.com/en-us/for-homeowners/warranties

I am age 70 so the GAF roof shingles that I just installed a few months ago will likely last during my lifetime of 20 to 30 years. That is all I care about.
 
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