Your recent repair? - 2021 to ?

[6miths]

Did tons of things at DS1's 'new' house. Built in 1958 and widowed older woman in it alone for many years. Tons to do. Put in some new light fixtures and outlets. Was shocked by some of the wiring. Also recaulked main floor bathtub and basement shower. One of my least favourite 'repairs'. Does look good when redone at least. And hey - no leaks!

 

[ERD50]

Did tons of things at DS1's 'new' house. Built in 1958 and widowed older woman in it alone for many years. Tons to do. Put in some new light fixtures and outlets. Was shocked by some of the wiring. Also recaulked main floor bathtub and basement shower. One of my least favourite 'repairs'. Does look good when redone at least. And hey - no leaks!

You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks.





-ERD50

 

[JoeWras]

You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks.



-ERD50

Ha ha ha! Now I get it!

But seriously... When approaching a home older than say, 1980, be really careful with electric wiring.

One thing I discovered the hard way is the concept of sharing neutrals. This is even more common in conduit systems, but can also happen with Romex.

The problem is that somewhere along the line, two circuits get tied together on the neutral. You are playing elsewhere, and have the breaker/fuse off. It looks good, even with a non-contact tester - no energy. Then you open up the neutral connection, and suddenly, get shocked. Basically, you can get return current from the tied in neutral if a light is on somewhere.

Oh and then there are the neutral ties to ground. Oh sheesh. I encountered that recently too. Basically using the ground wire as a neutral return. I should have taken a picture of this switch box I opened. It was a real sh.. show.

 

[ERD50]

Ha ha ha! Now I get it! .....

Well, it was pretty lame.

... But seriously... When approaching a home older than say, 1980, be really careful with electric wiring.

One thing I discovered the hard way is the concept of sharing neutrals. This is even more common in conduit systems, but can also happen with Romex.

The problem is that somewhere along the line, two circuits get tied together on the neutral. You are playing elsewhere, and have the breaker/fuse off. It looks good, even with a non-contact tester - no energy. Then you open up the neutral connection, and suddenly, get shocked. Basically, you can get return current from the tied in neutral if a light is on somewhere.

Oh and then there are the neutral ties to ground. Oh sheesh. I encountered that recently too. Basically using the ground wire as a neutral return. I should have taken a picture of this switch box I opened. It was a real sh.. show.

Nothing wrong with sharing the Neutral between two circuits on different phases. It's done all the time in the Chicago area, and we have very strict electrical codes, conduit everywhere in residential. In fact, it's advantageous - with those two circuits at max current (say 15A), the current in the Neutral cancels out, and has zero current. There can never be more than the max current on the neutral, and usually less (assumes resistive loads, changes a bit with reactive loads). So at max current, instead of 2 neutrals getting heated up a bit with 15A current each, you have zero current and zero heat in the single neutral. It flows directly from one phase to the other.

The issue you describe with having power from the other leg when the leg you are working on is switched off - I had that happen to me, suddenly the lights got super bright in the room, they were picking up current through the other leg, and one leg had more stuff ON than the other, so it got more than 1/2 the 220V combo of both legs.

Now, this won't happen if you simply disconnect the neutral from a device on the OFF leg. But if you BREAK the Neutral (which is easy to do if the device connects to a Neutral that comes in and out of the box and are tied together on a single wire nut), then you can have the situation you describe, current on the ON leg can flow through that disconnected Neutral into the other leg - whoops!

Considering that, it is a bit surprising that it isn't mentioned to turn off both breakers on a neutral. And I'm trying to remember if the correct way to wire a shared Neutral is to have a separate pigtail for the device Neutral, so you can disconnect it w/o breaking the downstream Neutral connection - but I don't think it is done that way?

Oh, Neutral connected to Ground anywhere other than a single connection at the panel is a clear NO-NO!

-ERD50

 

[Ready-4-ER-at-14]

One the way home from a suburb we started hearing a slight hissing noise. Having little hearing in one ear I can't tell direction of a noise. We were maybe 15 minutes from home and able to get off the express way in just a few more minutes. I was thinking maybe a cooling system leak. No dash lights were on nor was the engine running hot and I didn't see any steam or smell anything.

I had been thinking that because the car had hit a certain mileage maybe time to consider another just before the noise had stated. Surely it could not have read my thoughts! lol It seemed to be a little louder on surface streets but no other symptoms of problems.
Fortunately, we made it home and parked and got out and opened the hood. Strangely could hear nothing unusual or notice anything wrong.

Spouse said, she figured it out. The was a recently new soda bottle with a very small amount of Coke I had in the center cup tray whose cap was not on tight enough.
I still can't understand how it made so much noise for so long without us identifying it.

 

[JoeWras]

Now, this won't happen if you simply disconnect the neutral from a device on the OFF leg. But if you BREAK the Neutral (which is easy to do if the device connects to a Neutral that comes in and out of the box and are tied together on a single wire nut), then you can have the situation you describe, current on the ON leg can flow through that disconnected Neutral into the other leg - whoops!

Yes, this is key. If you find yourself unwinding a bundle of neutrals, be careful!

Or just turn off the main disconnect.

 

[Walt34]

Spouse said, she figured it out. The was a recently new soda bottle with a very small amount of Coke I had in the center cup tray whose cap was not on tight enough.
I still can't understand how it made so much noise for so long without us identifying it.

DW likes a brand of premade iced tea that comes in 52 oz. plastic bottles with a screw-on top. Occasionally she'll throw an empty and cold bottle in the trash without screwing the lid on tight and it'll make a similar hissing noise as the bottle (and air inside) warm up.

The first time that happened I spent a good 30 minutes or so poking around under the kitchen sink and dishwasher looking for the water leak.

 

[6miths]

You should always flip the breaker on the circuit and test it to avoid shocks.
-ERD50

Definitely! Good one.

 

[John Galt III]

I have a mystery drip under the driver side of the engine in my 2009 Nissan Versa. Can't see any wet spot on the engine or trans, though. I get a nickel sized spot on the driveway overnight. Have put cardboard under it, but then it doesn't drip. Drove over a stick a few months ago that flipped up and got jammed into the suspension near the driver side front wheel, and scraped on the road for a few feet, while turning into my driveway. Had to stop the car, get out, and pry the stick out. Didn't see any damage at the time. Waiting and watching.

 

[njhowie]

I have a mystery drip under the driver side...

Noticed it just one time? Ignore until it is persistent. If it happens again, dab your fingers in it, feel/smell it to determine what kind of liquid it is. Then can figure where to check next.

It's also possible the liquid was already on the driveway when you parked the car over it.

Stick a few months ago is highly likely not the cause of something happening today.

As for the obvious question...did you have the A/C on before turning the car off?

 

[Qs Laptop]

I did the annual ritual of tuning up my 20+ year old Lawn Boy 2-cycle self-propelled 21" lawnmower, but this time I did so with the intention of giving it to my youngest son. First off, I got the blade sharpened at local hardware store--$10.00 plus tax. Reinstall the blade on the mower. Now the fun part.

If anybody else does this chore you know how much fun it is. Greasy caked on finely chopped grass clipping in the carburetor and throttle linkage area, filthy air cleaner, tons of dried grass clippings underneath the drive belt housing, etc. Lots of opportunities to get dirty, greasy hands, plus the annual battle to start the thing the first time. It was so bad I had to remove the pull start housing, remove the gas tank, and pull the air cleaner, linkage and carburetor housing.

A lot of brush cleaning and a lot of carb cleaner later I got it all cleaned up and reassembled and throttle cable adjusted when I noticed I had a leftover gasket. Disassemble and reassemble. Grrrr... Check the spark plug and set the gap, it's good. Partially fill the tank with gas and try to start it. Won't start. Won't even pop or sputter. Remove the air cleaner and spritz a small amount of starter fluid in the air cleaner box, pull the starter cord, and V-r-r-o-o-o-m, runs for 10 seconds then dies. OK, I have confirmed I've got spark.

Spritz more starter fluid in air cleaner box, and it starts again. While running and starting to falter I press the primer bulb to give it gas, as if I'm administering CPR. Engine peters out and dies. OK, it's not getting gas. Drain the gas tank of gas. Remove the fuel line to the carburetor (spill the usual required amount of gas on the garage floor) and spray carb cleaner directly into the carburetor bowl via the gas line input port. Reattach gas line. Add gas to tank, spritz starter fluid, pull cord, engine starts.

Start pumping primer bulb, engine stumbles and is going to die so I grab the starter fluid and spritz again, engine picks up again and now starts running on its own--Hallelujah! While it's running I adjust the throttle to high speed and start squirting carb cleaner into the carburetor intake area. With each squirt engine stumbles but keeps running. After several squirts I assume the carb is cleaned out and reduce the throttle a bit and let the engine run. It's fine. Stop engine, reinsert air cleaner. Start the engine again, it easily starts. Test the self-propelled function by mowing a couple of strips across the lawn. Done.

How many of you have been here?

I clean the exterior of the Lawn Boy with soapy water and a cloth and a brush, rinse it off and it actually looks pretty good.

Then I went to mow my lawn with my new battery powered lawnmower. I inserted the battery, closed the safety bail and pushed the start button. Instant on. What a difference!

 

[Out-to-Lunch]

I
How many of you have been here?

I definitely have been there! But now I am lazy and just treat myself to a new carb from Amazon for (amazingly) <$20. That is right, I now treat carbs as a maintenance item.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Then I went to mow my lawn with my new battery powered lawnmower. I inserted the battery, closed the safety bail and pushed the start button. Instant on. What a difference!

I wrote a review of my new battery powered lawnmower. Read it here:

https://www.early-retirement.org/fo...e-ego-electric-lawnmower-lm2135sp-118035.html

 

[Qs Laptop]

I definitely have been there! But now I am lazy and just treat myself to a new carb from Amazon for (amazingly) <$20. That is right, I now treat carbs as a maintenance item.

That makes a lot of sense, a lot easier than tearing it apart and giving it a thorough bench cleaning.

I suppose you replace it once every 6-7 years? Or how often?

 

[Out-to-Lunch]

That makes a lot of sense, a lot easier than tearing it apart and giving it a thorough bench cleaning.

I suppose you replace it once every 6-7 years? Or how often?

Yeah, that sounds about right. Highly variable, of course. I had one mower that I got for free that I did NOTHING to for ~15 years (until I hit a cast-iron pipe with it and ruined it). The replacement mower (bought used) has been through two carbs in 10 years.

I was asked by my sister-in-law to fix her riding mower, after what seemed like a fuel-delivery problem. She is not local, so I just bought a new carb and brought it with me. When I started troubleshooting, I discovered that it was the fuel pump that failed. So I have a shiny new carb waiting for her if she ever needs it!

 

[38Chevy454]

Replaced the disposal in my sister's house. Fairly straightforward, hardest part was the hard wired electrical connection vs the much easier plug in. About 1.5 hours start to finish.

 

[harley]

I had a strange one this past weekend. DW pulled out the bottom drawer under the oven in our new(ish) townhouse, and the drawer tipped forward and fell on the floor. The builders hadn't attached the screws at the back of the sliders. We didn't notice for a while because as long as you didn't pull it out all the way it was fine. Just had to lay on the floor and reach into a relatively small space to get the screws attached. Not a big deal, but just another sign of lazy-ass workmanship.

 

[John Galt III]

Noticed it just one time? Ignore until it is persistent. If it happens again, dab your fingers in it, feel/smell it to determine what kind of liquid it is. Then can figure where to check next.

It's also possible the liquid was already on the driveway when you parked the car over it.

Stick a few months ago is highly likely not the cause of something happening today.

As for the obvious question...did you have the A/C on before turning the car off?

Hi NJ. More than a one time thing. I thought it stopped at one point, but it is back. I have a 2 foot diameter zone of spots now. I never have the A/C on. Defroster, yes, but the spots show up even when defroster is not used. Seems like something is oozing out when the car is driven, slowly oozes down the engine/trans, and the final few drops drip off after I park it. The 'good news' is that it isn't my recent changeover to synthetic motor oil. The underside of the filter, and the crankcase are bone dry. A silver lining!

 

[Walt34]

Hi NJ. More than a one time thing. I thought it stopped at one point, but it is back. I have a 2 foot diameter zone of spots now. I never have the A/C on. Defroster, yes, but the spots show up even when defroster is not used.

In most cars the defroster also dehumidifies the air by running the A/C compressor and directing the now-chilled air through the heater core to heat it back up before directing it to the windshield vents. So yes, running the dehumidifier can (but not always) result in water condensate draining onto the floor.

 

[Ronstar]

Push mower wouldn't start. Cleaned the carb - now runs.

 

[Qs Laptop]

Push mower wouldn't start. Cleaned the carb - now runs.

That's what I said (above), though you said it much more succinctly than I did. LOL.

 

[BlueberryPie]

My son noticed a puddle under the washer. Wiped it off, saw water slowly build up. I took the top off, it looks like the electrovalves are slowly leaking at the top, as in watch the beads form and fall off every 10s or so.
Quick Google search confirms that they can leak there.
Quick search on Amazon shows I can get the assembly with hot/cold valves mounted on the proper Y-shaped manifold. $23, free shipping with Prime. Worth a try.

3 days waiting for the part to show up, 1/2h to replace it and voila, breathed new life in the washer "good as new".

 

[njhowie]

Push mower wouldn't start. Cleaned the carb - now runs.

Push mower was running soft past couple seasons. Likely would have gotten to the point of yours. I didn't want to spend time cleaning or replacing the carb. Used this stuff, and while mowing after 4th refueling engine revved back up and has new life. I'm now also adding to riding mower and power washer fuel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K9FCLPZ

 

[ls99]

Had pedestal from old dryer, out in gatage. Had moved old as unit and unbolted pedestal in garage. When I bought a replacement clothes dryer, just put it in place. Finally got around to lug pedestal back into basement and put dryer on it. Now the washer and dryer drums are same level. While had things apart, cleaned vent pipe of accumulated fluff. Used electric leaf blower to move the stuff out. Also replaced a section of flex hose with 4" rigid pipe.

 

[Out-to-Lunch]

I did the annual ritual of tuning up my 20+ year old Lawn Boy 2-cycle self-propelled 21" lawnmower, but this time I did so with the intention of giving it to my youngest son. First off, I got the blade sharpened at local hardware store--$10.00 plus tax. Reinstall the blade on the mower. Now the fun part.

If anybody else does this chore you know how much fun it is. Greasy caked on finely chopped grass clipping in the carburetor and throttle linkage area, filthy air cleaner, tons of dried grass clippings underneath the drive belt housing, etc. Lots of opportunities to get dirty, greasy hands, plus the annual battle to start the thing the first time. It was so bad I had to remove the pull start housing, remove the gas tank, and pull the air cleaner, linkage and carburetor housing.

...

How many of you have been here?

I definitely have been there! But now I am lazy and just treat myself to a new carb from Amazon for (amazingly) <$20. That is right, I now treat carbs as a maintenance item.

Well, today was the first time I tried to fire up the mower this spring, after changing the carb last summer. Wouldn't start after a number of pulls, so I hit it with starting fluid (ether), and it fired right up and promptly died. Did that once or twice more, then bent over to take a closer look. OH YEAH! When I installed that carb last summer, I also installed a fuel shutoff valve for winter storage. Opened the valve and it started right up!