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Old 09-09-2011, 11:05 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by samclem View Post
I think we might already be there with motor oil. Our new car (Honda CR-V) specifies use of 0W-20 oil.
I completely agree. I was an auto mechanic for 8 years...and I own an older CRV now. Even if I bought a new one, there's no way I'd use 0W-20...particularly in the summer. I'd have to do some research...but typically I use one weight heavier than they recommend...or in your case that would be 10W-30.

For those of you unfamilar with oil grades... the first number is how "viscous" the oil is at a particular temperature (don't know the exact temp...but think of it as the thickness in winter)...and the lower the number, the thinner the oil. The W stands for "Winter", so a 0W-20 has the "viscosity" of a 0-weight oil in winter, and a 20-weight (thicker) oil in summer.

If you were to open up a 0W-20 and a 20W-50 oil, the 20W-50 would be NOTABLY more viscous (thicker).

If you open a 0W-20 oil in winter and videotape yourself pouring it, then heat the oil up to a summer temperature and pour it again, it would be notably thinner at the warmer temperature.
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:15 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Finance Dave View Post
I completely agree. I was an auto mechanic for 8 years...and I own an older CRV now. Even if I bought a new one, there's no way I'd use 0W-20...particularly in the summer. I'd have to do some research...but typically I use one weight heavier than they recommend...or in your case that would be 10W-30.
I also own a CRV, my model is from 2003 and it states 5W-20. I don't have any problems using 5W-30 or 10W-30 if needed. My neighbor bought a 2011 4Runnier and won't use anything other than 0W-20 even though they claim you can use 5W-20 if necessary. He won't do it even though 0W-20 (he bought it from Toyota) is 3-4X more costly than 5W-20 around here, if you can find it.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:25 PM   #43
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Just be aware that if you rotate your tires and they contain a TPMS module which shows on your cabin display by tire location, your display will get confusing since the internal TPMS is "keyed" to the original wheel location.

I had tires replaced on my SRX and didn't understand what was happening when I was adding air to one side (front tire) but the cabin display showed no difference; however the other side showed an "overage" in air.

Since the tires are directional, I just can't switch the front tires (which are different sizes from the rear), and I have no desire to break the bead just to have them remounted. I just have to remember that what is shown on the monitor is not actually the tire that is showing the high/low air pressure.
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Old 09-09-2011, 01:52 PM   #44
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Thanks for the tips. I'll reconsider this next time I need new tires.

The pump idea is a good one, and the bicycle pump will work in an emergency.

"Ha ha, Al, what's that you are saying? It would take forever to pump a car tire with a bicycle pump!"

Well, I experimented and found I could raise the pressure from 35 psi to 43 psi with only 50 strokes. I wouldn't want to inflate one from scratch, but this could work in a pinch.
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Old 09-10-2011, 04:58 PM   #45
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My friend with the run flat tires that's always complaining about how expensive that are to replace, is at it again. He just paid $109 to do a patch on one of them! I think 1 brand new tire for my CRV is less than that.
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