New Roof Question

[ponyboy]

You bought the wrong kind of metal roof. Mine is a standing seam roof I had installed 7 years ago. Each panel has one edge that is screwed down to the roof and is then covered by the next panel, crimped down to lock it in place, and then that panel is screwed down every 12 inches. Repeat. Then entire edge around the roof is then crimped down to a special drip edge. There are no exposed screws (rubber washers are not used or necessary) and there is no place for wind to get under it. Mine has been through a couple of hurricanes and a few north easterns and shows no wear or damage. Of course if you are looking for the inexpensive metal roof then you have to deal with rubber washers and the screws eventually getting loose.

Cheers!

Ah I always forget...not many diy's here.

 

[sengsational]

• How many workers would be on the job
• How long will it take your team to complete the job
• Will the lead person speak English
• What is the payment schedule

One concern should be nights where a small team would start the tear off then just throw a tarp over your roof and come back (maybe) tomorrow. Unless it's raining, in which case, you'll have to find buckets, because the tarp blew off. In other words, find someone with a large enough team to do it in one day, guaranteed.


And of course, pay a the smallest percentage you can negotiate to secure the contract. You can pay most of the balance once the new roof is to your satisfaction, but hold back 10% or so until after the first big rain storm.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

You bought the wrong kind of metal roof. Mine is a standing seam roof I had installed 7 years ago. Each panel has one edge that is screwed down to the roof and is then covered by the next panel, crimped down to lock it in place, and then that panel is screwed down every 12 inches. Repeat. Then entire edge around the roof is then crimped down to a special drip edge. There are no exposed screws (rubber washers are not used or necessary) and there is no place for wind to get under it. Mine has been through a couple of hurricanes and a few north easterns and shows no wear or damage. Of course if you are looking for the inexpensive metal roof then you have to deal with rubber washers and the screws eventually getting loose.

Cheers!

Yep. I have some old farm property with a barn and granary that have galvanized standing-seam roofs at least 70 years old. I can see up into the rafters, and even after all that time there's no sign of water intrusion. The durability of those roofs was a factor in our decision to put standing-seam roofing on our home.

 

[Sunset]

Do metal roofs collect leaves and pine straw the same way asphalt roofs do?

The opposite is a problem in the North, snow and ice will slide off the metal roof easily. Friends installed a metal roof on a 2 story cottage. The next spring when they came up, they found the front wooden step and railings had been crushed by ice/snow sliding off.
It even took off the metal fence like thing that was mounted on the roof to prevent snow sliding off onto the steps.

Maybe a different thing would stop the snow/ice from sliding, but they don't use it in the Winter, so no issue for them.

 

[brucethebroker]

You bought the wrong kind of metal roof. Mine is a standing seam roof I had installed 7 years ago. Each panel has one edge that is screwed down to the roof and is then covered by the next panel, crimped down to lock it in place, and then that panel is screwed down every 12 inches. Repeat. Then entire edge around the roof is then crimped down to a special drip edge. There are no exposed screws (rubber washers are not used or necessary) and there is no place for wind to get under it. Mine has been through a couple of hurricanes and a few north easterns and shows no wear or damage. Of course if you are looking for the inexpensive metal roof then you have to deal with rubber washers and the screws eventually getting loose.

Cheers!

Lots of good info. Thanks.

 

[brucethebroker]

Here is some helpful terminology. Replacing a roof (here in the Midwest) can mean EITHER stripping the old shingles off and applying new tar paper and shingles over the plywood decking OR it can mean putting a second layer of shingles over existing shingles. In our area/climate, local code allows both. The second layer method is cheaper, and usually does a fine job for 20 years or so. You are not allowed a 3rd layer (unless you have a very, very steep roof).

 

[Jerry1]

Here is some helpful terminology. Replacing a roof (here in the Midwest) can mean EITHER stripping the old shingles off and applying new tar paper and shingles over the plywood decking OR it can mean putting a second layer of shingles over existing shingles. In our area/climate, local code allows both. The second layer method is cheaper, and usually does a fine job for 20 years or so. You are not allowed a 3rd layer (unless you have a very, very steep roof).

This is indeed code and for sure cheaper, but I just couldn't do it. Given how big the job already is, I can't convince myself not to get a look at the sheathing under the first layer of shingles and make sure everything is in good shape. I suffer for "might as well do it right" syndrome. It will be harder now that at this stage in my life I don't think I'll be in my current house more than ten years, but one never knows. For me, it's a moot point because the schlep that lived here before me put the second layer on so I'll have no choice. Probably should have done the second shingle method on my prior house because I only lived there about 5 years after I did the roof. I just don't think I could have done it.

Really appreciate the insight on the metal roof. I will definitely check that out when it's time to do mine. Maybe there will be some offset in the sales price when I sell it for having the longer lasting roof.

 

[meierlde]

Really appreciate the insight on the metal roof. I will definitely check that out when it's time to do mine. Maybe there will be some offset in the sales price when I sell it for having the longer lasting roof.

Don't forget you get at least a 5% break on homeowners insurance depending on the chances of hail where you live. (Depends on if your state has the discount, check with insurance agent).

 

[Sunset]

Here is some helpful terminology. Replacing a roof (here in the Midwest) can mean EITHER stripping the old shingles off and applying new tar paper and shingles over the plywood decking OR it can mean putting a second layer of shingles over existing shingles. In our area/climate, local code allows both. The second layer method is cheaper, and usually does a fine job for 20 years or so. You are not allowed a 3rd layer (unless you have a very, very steep roof).

Some people get carried away, I spent weeks last summer striping off 4 layers of roof on a boat house.

Our house had 2 layers on it when we bought it, but we got lucky and had a hail storm, so the insurance had to pay the extra $500 cost to strip 2 layers instead of 1.

 

[Badger]

I should have had installed a metal roof long before I finally had it done. I went through 2 shingle roofs in the meantime. These were 30+ yr shingles from leading companies that didn't last 15 years in the Fl weather and the warranty wasn't worth the paper it was written on. They are usually prorated and do not cover labor which is the most expensive part. So for a $3-4k job you might only get a couple of hundred dollars toward a new roof.

Although the metal roof cost more to install if you are planning on staying in that home then the metal roof is more cost effective. If I had the metal roof installed to begin with I could have saved myself a few thousand dollars, the inconvenience of reroofing, and avoided weather damage and leaks. Now the roof is tight, the heating/cooling is cheaper, and I don't see having to ever need a new roof.

Now I just laugh at bad weather.

Cheers!

 

[DAYDREAMER]

Love metal roofs, both asthetically and longevity. I installed standing seam metal last year. One recommendation: Install roof anchors so you can rope up when walking on it. Metal is very slippery, especially when wet, or dusty. My roof accumulates cedar and maple debris. Roof pitch is 4/12 and leaves do not slide off on its own. A few times during fall, I'll walk the roof with a blower to clean it.

 

[Mr._Graybeard]

There was a stretch in the 1990s when composite shingles were absolute garbage. Many of the major manufacturers had class actions against them for premature failure.

We live on a windy hill, so when we did a big remodeling of our house 20 years ago we had the roofer install barn-style T-lock shingles with a 30-year warranty. Boy, those pups were heavy -- and thick. But the grit wasn't secure in the surface, and it washed right off. After 12 years our insurer declared it irreparable and wrote us a check for a new roof. That's when we went with metal.

I'm with you, Badger. I used to check the roof for damage after every big blow. I don't have to do that anymore. I believe the metal roof will add to resale value of our house as well.

 

[GravitySucks]

Here is some helpful terminology. Replacing a roof (here in the Midwest) can mean EITHER stripping the old shingles off and applying new tar paper and shingles over the plywood decking OR it can mean putting a second layer of shingles over existing shingles. In our area/climate, local code allows both. The second layer method is cheaper, and usually does a fine job for 20 years or so. You are not allowed a 3rd layer (unless you have a very, very steep roof).

I did the double layer when put the new shingles on the last house. It worked well but I'm (well they this time, I'm to old to be up there) going down to the plywood for this house.