Would you repair a 2011 Toyota Avalon with $5000 damage & 190,000 miles??

freetodream

Recycles dryer sheets
Joined
Feb 6, 2012
Messages
69
Location
Rochester
Our car was side swiped along drivers side with somewhat minimal damage. It runs just fine.

Insurance will pay us about $4500 for damage, has 190,000 miles on it.

Approx. retail value repaired is between $7000 to $9000.

Fix it Pros & Cons

-it is too "new" to just write it off
-mechanically is in good condition with new tires
-it will start to rust if not fixed in a year or two
- I don't enjoy selling cars
-it drives fine as it
- we drive it 20,000+ miles/year with this car
- I'm "OK" with writing off, my wife is fine doing that
-trade=in value will be quite low if not fixed
- its easier to just drive it and not fix it

I'm in a dilemma of what to do.

Would you fix it or take the money, drive it and write it off?
 
When would have ended your relationship with the car if there was no damage?
 
Any way to get the insurance payment without fixing the car?

Does fixing the car cost $5,000 of which insurance pays $4,500 ($500 net cost)?

I’d try to get the money from insurance without fixing it then sell it for whatever you can get. If it’s drivable, someone will buy it.

Otherwise, I’d probably fix it and sell it and not be in any hurry while I figure out my next car.
 
I'd probably fix it to some degree, especially if you're in salty WNY, then keep on driving it. If the damage is truly minimal, I might not even try to fix it. Probably depends if the doors still function.
 
Any way to get the insurance payment without fixing the car?

Does fixing the car cost $5,000 of which insurance pays $4,500 ($500 net cost)?

I’d try to get the money from insurance without fixing it then sell it for whatever you can get. If it’s drivable, someone will buy it.

Otherwise, I’d probably fix it and sell it and not be in any hurry while I figure out my next car.

Yes we need more info. Can you get the insurance payment either way? If so, I'd take it and then sell or donate the car.
 
Yes we need more info. Can you get the insurance payment either way? If so, I'd take it and then sell or donate the car.
+1


BTW, according to Kelly Blue Book, a well equipped (loaded) 2011 Toyota Avalon w/190k miles on it and in average condition is valued in a trade-in range of $4700 to $6400. Maybe as much as $1000 more in excellent condition.
 
Last edited:
The old Avalon will also have lower insurance costs, lower tag fees, and lower depreciation.

Consider these also.

New car fees and insurance can be huge these days. You may want to check that out.
 
It sounds like it served you well but it is time to let it go. Get something newer with far better safety features.

+1 It's about time to say goodbye to this car instead of sinking more time and money into it.
 
I would see if https://www.car-part.com/ had doors/fender in correct color nearby and contact a local body shop or independant to do the legwork and swaps... and remainder of work. Well .. actually i would DIY most of it.
 
A picture of the damage would be nice.

You are getting $4,500 for a car whose retail price is about $8,000, if not damaged. With a retail price of $8,000 this means you could have gotten perhaps $6,000 - $6,500 as a trade in before it was damaged.

You said you don't like selling cars but if you were to sell this car as is, with the damage, could you get more than $3,500 for it? If so, you would then have $4,500 from the insurance company and $3,500 from the buyer of your car. That's $8,000 right there.

If you were trading it in, and the price you would have gotten was $6,500 then you only need to sell the damaged car for $2,000 to reach the number.

If these numbers are possible I would take the money and sell the car.

One thing about a damaged car is that there isn't much back and forth haggling with a potential buyer. If someone sees a photo of the car and still comes out to look at it, they are definitely interested. Plus, you don't have to haggle too much--"Look, it's a damaged car. I want $3,000 for it. No use trying to bargain because the rear passenger power window doesn't work. It's $3000, take it or leave it."
 
Me, personally, If I was going to keep driving the car, I would fix it. You can probably get another 100,000 miles out of your good Toyota.

If you were thinking of buying a new car anyway, then take the money, sell the car as is and go buy a new one.
 
Personally I'd let it go. A car with 190,000 miles on it, especially a modern one, is sort of like a 90 year old man that's still in really good health. It might last a little while longer, but its expiration date is sooner than you think.

To me, a car with 190,000 miles on it is something you give to your kid when he or she gets their license, or sell/give cheap to a family member or friend who needs a cheap set of wheels.

Also, at $4500 worth of damage, that car's either totaled, or close to it. Many insurance companies total a car when the estimate to repair tops 60% of its book value. $4500 is 64% of $7K, and even 50% of $9k.
 
Would you fix it or take the money, drive it and write it off?

I don't understand what there is to write off. The insurance company has offered you fair compensation for the decrease in value of the vehicle:confused:? And the car still has value as an operational vehicle even if an ugly duckling.

I would take the money and fix anything that impairs the proper operation of the vehicle and necessary to pass any state inspection requirements.

I have done this three times in my nearly 60 years of vehicle ownership. One was hail damage which I just lived dented sheetmetal, sold the car to an individual years later. Second was damage from hitting a deer, replaced the headlight assembly, duct taped the bumper cover, and sold years later to an individual. Third car was backed into the tailgate in a parking lot, just sheet metal damage and the tailgate operated fine. Traded that van for another used car about 5 years later.
 
Last edited:
I don't understand what there is to write off. The insurance company has offered you fair compensation for the decrease in value of the vehicle:confused:? And the car still has value as an operational vehicle even if an ugly duckling.

I would take the money and fix anything that impairs the proper operation of the vehicle and necessary to pass any state inspection requirements.

I've never had the insurance company offer me that choice, of taking the money and just driving it as is. But then, every claim I've had has either been extremely minor, or the car was totaled.

The last time I had a car totaled was in 2009. It was a 2000 Intrepid with about 151,000 miles on it. Someone pulled a hit and run on it in a parking lot. The damage wasn't THAT bad, but it tore a major wiring harness, and that triggered a bunch of idiot lights. The insurance company offered me something like $1988. If I wanted to keep it, I think I had to pay a $300 salvage to get it back, but then I had 90 days to get it fixed and inspected, and would only be given a salvage title. So if it got wrecked again, I'd probably get zero for it.

So at that point, I decided to just let it go. It had been a good car. But, Intrepids of that era were known for issues with their 2.7 DOHC V6. And, while their transmissions were improved over the early years of the 4-speed automatic, they still weren't perfect. I figured I could fix that car up, only to have the transmission go out next.

The last insurance claim I had was in 2017, when someone sideswiped my 2012 Ram and left a nice, long crease down the side of the bed. I think that one cost about $800-900 to get fixed. But the truck was (and still is) in pretty good shape, still low mileage, so I figured I'd rather have it fixed, than the $800-900 in my pocket. Even if they did offer it.
 
Probably not.

I would take the money, invest it in another vehicle, and be thankful that I has such good service over the years from the Avalon.

I would also challenge the insurance company payout. My spouse has a similar issue with a Maxima. A friend in the insurance business suggested that it is not uncommon to get an insurance payout increased simply by objecting to the original amount.

In my spouses case a simple 10 minute phone call netted her an additional 2k on an 11K settlement. The worst they can say is no!
 
I used to have a 2011 Camry LE and I now drive a 2018 Camry XLE. Yes, I'd total the 2011 and get a newer Camry. The new ones have so many more safety and comfort improvements. You'll like the upgrade.
 
Probably not.

I would take the money, invest it in another vehicle, and be thankful that I has such good service over the years from the Avalon.

I would also challenge the insurance company payout. My spouse has a similar issue with a Maxima. A friend in the insurance business suggested that it is not uncommon to get an insurance payout increased simply by objecting to the original amount.

In my spouses case a simple 10 minute phone call netted her an additional 2k on an 11K settlement. The worst they can say is no!

This is true, I settled total losses for 15 years before retirement. You will need to do a little research before the call to find some comparable vehicles(same model and approx milage) that will represent the higher value you seek.

Good luck,

VW

BTW- I would keep driving it if it served my reason for owning it as transportation only. People usually give you more room on the road when you're driving damaged stuff. :)
 
Depends on how bad it looks. Maybe a little DIY effort can improve it a bit. Dents can be pulled out some with a toilet plunger. Off color paint scrapes can be polished off to make scratches & scrapes less apparent. $4500 seem like a lot to spend to make it look better.

Years ago we received a check for hail damage to a car. There was some kind of statement that the insurance would not pay for any other damage to the car if it was not repaired. We took the check, cancelled the insurance and insured it with somebody else.
 
I would just get the car fixed. Older cars like that have low insurance, licensing and even maintenance costs assuming you've kept up with the oil changes. An older can can be parked anywhere and you don't care. Less stress for you. Also there's the issue of new cars. There's still a car shortage for Toyota and Honda. You may have to wait and pay sticker or above.
 
IF you are leaning towards keeping the Avalon you may want to briefly revisit any mtce that you have coming up.

-timing belt
-fluids...transmission, coolant, brake, power steering
-the usual brakes, shocks etc.

This is what we did when we had to make a buy/keep decision on our '97 Camry. Older car, high mileage, good condition. And we loved it.

We kept it for another 5 years. Toyota dealer recommended $3200. of necessary service/repairs. Our regular local Toyota trained mechanic did them for $1500. After those 5 years we passed the car on to our son. For some reason $3200 was a tipping point for us. $1500 was not so much.

As an aside...we are still running a 2006 full load Accord and a 2007 Solara (camry) SLE convertible with ZERO plans to replace either.
 
Last edited:
The advantage of buying a new or later model car is some of the modern safety features. Personally, I really like adaptive cruise control and blind side monitoring. Lane tracking can be a nuisance at times but is easy to turn off. Front collision may have saved me from a bad accident a few years ago.

It’s up to you. The Avalon is a very nice car and under appreciated by many people who are Toyota fans. YMMV.
 
I used to have a 2011 Camry LE and I now drive a 2018 Camry XLE. Yes, I'd total the 2011 and get a newer Camry. The new ones have so many more safety and comfort improvements. You'll like the upgrade.

+1
 
DW had a 2005 Avalon & in 2020, she sold it to a friend who "knew" the car and wanted to buy it when we were done with it. It's still running strong.

She got a 2018 Avalon & is still a nice car. Insurance is definitely more as we had liability only on the old girl. Either way you will be happy. I'd personally do the minimum to make it safe & drive it into the ground. Car prices are still too high, imo & would likely subside in a year or two.
 
Back
Top Bottom