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Old 06-01-2021, 10:50 AM   #1501
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Started my very first batch of mead.
My son-in-law is making mead. He started brewing beer a few years ago, and his brews are turning out well, so I have high hopes for his mead.

I'm not so big on mead, I bought honey in a club group buy, still have the honey! Some day!

Anyhow, seems the 'modern' way of mead-making is to give it regular doses of nutrients. I understand you cut the turn-around time down substantially by doing this, the yeast finish up much faster. For the non-fermentors out there - honey contains simple sugars (monosaccharides glucose and fructose in the same ~ ratio as HFCS), very little other nutrients that the yeast need to fully convert all those sugars to ethanol.

Wine from grape juice is similar (mostly all fructose), while beer has more nutrients from the grain and more complex sugars (various maltose forms, mostly disaccharides, plus some trisaccharides - three times the complexity and three times the fun of the simple monosaccharides! ).

Good luck with your mead, let us know how it turns out. Are you flavoring it? Sweet, dry? Carbonated or still?

-ERD50
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Old 06-01-2021, 11:11 AM   #1502
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My son-in-law is making mead. He started brewing beer a few years ago, and his brews are turning out well, so I have high hopes for his mead.

I'm not so big on mead, I bought honey in a club group buy, still have the honey! Some day!

Anyhow, seems the 'modern' way of mead-making is to give it regular doses of nutrients. I understand you cut the turn-around time down substantially by doing this, the yeast finish up much faster. For the non-fermentors out there - honey contains simple sugars (monosaccharides glucose and fructose in the same ~ ratio as HFCS), very little other nutrients that the yeast need to fully convert all those sugars to ethanol.

Wine from grape juice is similar (mostly all fructose), while beer has more nutrients from the grain and more complex sugars (various maltose forms, mostly disaccharides, plus some trisaccharides - three times the complexity and three times the fun of the simple monosaccharides! ).

Good luck with your mead, let us know how it turns out. Are you flavoring it? Sweet, dry? Carbonated or still?

-ERD50
The various wine yeasts used for wine making require yeast nutrients at the beginning of fermentation and once again after 1/3 drop in the Brix score. While all dependent on YAN, (yeast available nitrogen), if wine yeast go the distance in fermentation without nutrients, the yeast will cannibalize and create some funky off color aromas and flavors. Sometimes, one can smell/taste those in cheaper wines, and sometimes in expensive wines, too.

Beer, as you say, may not need those nutrients because of the grain, but also, the beer yeast don't have to work that hard to ferment all of the sugars to alcohol. Also, some beer yeasts, because of the yeast nutrient demand, are used to create the "laffy taffy" taste in Belgian beers and the like.

Mead, while I haven't made any, but have imbibed, just doesn't cut it with me. It seems to have a metallic finish to me. Whether it is the end result of the normal flavor profile, or lack of nutrients, I have no experience in that department.

Good luck with your mead pjigar!
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:20 PM   #1503
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The first batch I started is aiming for medium still mead. Some orange peels, resins and black tea for tannins. Basically dumped everything together all at once at room temperature based on a YouTube video! I bought some used brewing supply which came with beer yeast so I used that to boot! Its only a gallon batch mainly to see if I can ferment. Apparently it is fermenting just fine with a bubble every other second from an airlock.

I just finished reading mead making book and understand the yeast biology little better. So I ordered bunch of basic ingredient to make better and faster mead (yeast nutrients, better wine yeast, etc.). I will also maintain temperatures better in next official bigger batch. So much to learn and experiment.
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:29 PM   #1504
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Anyhow, seems the 'modern' way of mead-making is to give it regular doses of nutrients. I understand you cut the turn-around time down substantially by doing this, the yeast finish up much faster.
-ERD50
Yes, I learned that from the book very quickly. I think I will go with the science to make better mead faster in my next batch.
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Old 06-01-2021, 02:38 PM   #1505
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If you have a "hot" fermentation, you will tend to boil off any aromas. Slow ferments, by keeping the temp around 60 degrees, will give you a much tastier product. Remember, your tongue can only taste salt, sweet, sour, bitter and unami. All other flavors we taste come from the aromas on the nose and back of the throat.

As far as yeast nutrients go, there are several products you can purchase. One sold as DAP, for diammonium phosphate, I try to avoid, as it tends to drive off fruity aromas. Yes, you want plenty of healthy yeast cells, but you want nice cool ferment. Also, during your primary fermentation, the yeast need oxygen, so fermenting in a open container like a bucket, is best. Once the sugar level has dropped to about 1 Brix or 1.00 on your hydrometer, then rack it to a jug and but the airlock on.

While it is mead, and honey is a natural anti microbial substance, left over nutrient not used by your yeast, are breeding grounds for microbes. While you only have a gallon, and it will probably be drunk before anything could infect it.
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Old 06-01-2021, 03:15 PM   #1506
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Yes, Cool must in the next round. Yes, aerated must in the next round. I settled on Go-Ferm + Fermaid K for nutrients. I will try open container for the next round like you suggested.
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Old 06-01-2021, 04:38 PM   #1507
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Finished up my display case project. Have my engine collection in there. An engineer should have some engines eh?

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Old 06-01-2021, 08:38 PM   #1508
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Finished another kitchen, laundry room walnut work-top & custom closet. Been busy around here...
Very nice!
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:38 PM   #1509
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Yes, Cool must in the next round. Yes, aerated must in the next round. I settled on Go-Ferm + Fermaid K for nutrients. I will try open container for the next round like you suggested.
Sounds good! Yes, Go-Ferm + Fermaid K are what I use in my wine-making, forget the name of the nutrients I use for beer, it's just kind of a standard "Yeast Nutrient" package that it seems everyone uses. Though I'm not even sure it's needed in beer, I think the grains provide enough nutrient, bit it's cheap insurance and not worth trying to do an A/B study on. I've forgotten it, and didn't notice any difference.

And while Winemaker suggests open fermentation for oxygen in the first stages (which obviously works, as he is the Winemaker!), what I'm familiar with at the home-brew level is to just vigorously shake the cooled must/wort/whatever-they-call-honey-water-prior-to-fermentaion for ~ 45 seconds. This supposedly will reach the saturation level of O2 in that sugar-water solution (~ 8ppm IIRC). Some add O2 directly, but it is possible to over do it (though I'm not sure how, if 8ppm is 'saturated'?).

But anyhow, by shaking it, you can keep it sealed and have less exposure to wild yeast/bacteria. Maybe this is less of a problem at large scale levels, as volume goes up, surface area goes down percentage wise.

Anyhow, have fun!

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Some orange peels, resins and black tea for tannins.
While I'm not a big fan of meads, that sounds pretty tasty (raisins I assume?). I've enjoyed some raisin meads, what's not to like about orange peel, and a little tannin edge could work well. Report back!

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Old 06-01-2021, 08:39 PM   #1510
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Finished up my display case project. Have my engine collection in there. An engineer should have some engines eh?

Nice cabinet ! - and engines
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Old 06-01-2021, 08:42 PM   #1511
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Finished up my display case project. Have my engine collection in there. An engineer should have some engines eh? ...
Cool! What are the engines? Is one a Sterling? I see a radial, others look like piston steam engines?

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Old 06-01-2021, 09:12 PM   #1512
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Got 3 steam, 5 sterling, 1 hit & miss, 1 four stroke and a solar electric.

Also a tesla coil, an induction coil, a Marx generator and some open frame brushed.
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:27 PM   #1513
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Got 3 steam, 5 sterling, 1 hit & miss, 1 four stroke and a solar electric.

Also a tesla coil, an induction coil, a Marx generator and some open frame brushed.
Wow, what a diverse mix! I only fully understood what a "hit & miss engine" was all about a few years ago at a farm/history show - a guy showed me how the governor disabled the valve above a set RPM, and under no/low load, it would only "hit" about once out of 4 or 5 power cycles, and then momentum carried it along until it needed another "hit" ( I just always thought the were running really bad because they were old!). Then he loaded it down with a water pump on a belt, and it kicked in every beat. Oh - now I get it! Easier than trying to control a fuel/air mix in those days I guess.

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Old 06-01-2021, 09:34 PM   #1514
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Got 3 steam, 5 sterling, 1 hit & miss, 1 four stroke and a solar electric.

Also a tesla coil, an induction coil, a Marx generator and some open frame brushed.
That's a great collection RobbieB! I got very close to start building a Sterling a while back but never actually started. Some day!
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Old 06-01-2021, 09:34 PM   #1515
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raisins I assume?
Correct.
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Old 06-02-2021, 02:03 PM   #1516
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Finished up my display case project. Have my engine collection in there. An engineer should have some engines eh?
Way cool collection!

I've always wanted to get one of these O.S. radial engines if for no other reason than to mount it on the fireplace mantel. Sadly, DW has no appreciation for the artwork involved in fine machinery.
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Old 06-02-2021, 05:06 PM   #1517
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Not to mention that thing is gonna be hella loud when you run it.

And if you're not gonna run it why buy it? I've burnt all of mine indoors...

I have one of and although I didn't lathe the hub I did do the 2 burner mod and it runs really good!
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Old 06-03-2021, 06:29 AM   #1518
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Finished up my display case project. Have my engine collection in there. An engineer should have some engines eh?

NIce work on the mitered corners. When I have more time, I'll start looking into this...
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Old 06-03-2021, 07:35 AM   #1519
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Not to mention that thing is gonna be hella loud when you run it.

And if you're not gonna run it why buy it? I've burnt all of mine indoors...

I have one of these and although I didn't lathe the hub I did do the 2 burner mod and it runs really good!
I didn't understand the 2 burner mod. Why not just use longer wicks in the top burners? It looked like they were just too short to keep the end submerged in the fuel? Aren't these wicks a continuous 'string' that you cut to length?

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Old 06-03-2021, 12:24 PM   #1520
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The angle is higher so more vertical lift is needed. The wicks burn as not enough fuel is available. The bottoms don't need to be removed, just wick pulled out more. This also allows more fuel in the tank as half as many wicks and easier to fill w/o overflowing as more air space and 2 extra vents from no top pipes.

That cabinet is the best I've made yet, I keep getting better with experience. The glass is not cheap window stuff either. They are 3/8" thick, 1 foot x 3 foot tempered shelves which I glued in with epoxy. Glass weighs 15 pounds each. So I used full length piano hinge to support.

Brick House!
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