Poll:Do You Have PPF On Any Of Your Cars?

[RetiredAt55.5]

$6,000+ would pay for a pretty high quality re-paint down the road, if needed.

Also, if I got into an accident and the car needed to be repainted, would the insurance company cover the additional cost to reapply this treatment to all the affected panels?

Applying this just to the front end kinda makes more sense to me, but it's sorta like extended warranty's to me - I'd rather pay if/when something happens versus always buying it. In my lifetime of owning cars, I never would've come out ahead getting this paint protection on all my new cars.

 

[DayDreaming]

I never heard of PPF until I started reading what people do with their Teslas.
I did get a Tesla and I put PPF on the rear door rocker-panels, the small area in front of the rear wheels. I cost $40, I applied it myself.

 

[Ronstar]

No. And I don't think I ever will.

 

[Beldar]

We considered a film treatment for the front area and mirrors of our MX-5, but instead went with OEM bras on all 3 locations. Looks cool but requires frequent removal and cleaning.

_B

 

[Lakedog]

My 2023 Tacoma came with it on some lower sections of the truck bed (in front of and behind the rear wheel wells). Not sure if it actually helps or will just become a cosmetic problem -- have read about issues with yellowing (mine is clear over white paint).

 

[eytonxav]

I put it on my entire front end, mirrors and pillars on my RS5. Car was also ceramic coated. It does provide good protection and will make the car easier to clean. Many folks with modern higher end cars opt for it, but make sure you take it to a reputable installer.

 

[OldShooter]

The dealer had added PPF to the car DW had picked out at some astronomical price. I told them that we didn't want it and they could remove it. They caved and took it off the ticket. I don't know if it does any good or not, but it certainly wasn't worth the price they tried to charge.

 

[Samsung4321]

A vendor's retort:

https://diversityautofilms.com/5-heinous-ppf-myths/

In Australia UV degradation of paint and plastic polymers is rapid where car are not garaged. The paint top coat starts peeling in as little as 5 years, especially roof, boot and bonnet. Plastic headlights become hazy.

Before top coats, paint seemed thicker and the answer to UV degradation was 'UV protection oil / wax' every few months and 'cut, polish and UV protection oil / wax' every few years.

That and PPF might be around the same hassle / cost over time.

The cost of a garaging amortised over decades might be similar also.

Stone chips - don't drive so close, slow down keep to side of road when passing oncoming traffic on gravel.

 

[Midpack]

Before top coats, paint seemed thicker and the answer to UV degradation was 'UV protection oil / wax' every few months and 'cut, polish and UV protection oil / wax' every few years.

That and PPF might be around the same hassle / cost over time.

I may be missing your drift, but PPF provides far greater protection against stone chips/cracks than any wax ever could. And it also slows UV degradation, and preserves your paint and clear coat better than any wax.

 

[GaryInCO]

My previous car was a 2002 Saab that I bought new. The dealer talked me into a fancy-schmancy "clear bra" on the front part of the hood. I'd never heard of such a thing at the time, and I figured I had probably "got took." But 20 years and 190k miles later the hood still looked good -- except along the front edge where the clear bra didn't cover. The paint on that little strip was all sandblasted off.

So even the 20-yr-old PPF tech worked pretty darn well. Since I got 20 years out of the last car, I decided to protect my new Tesla too. Did the full-body coverage. It cost a stupid amount of money, but this way my pricey toy will stay pretty for a looong time.

The previous comment about UV protection applies to PPF too, or at least it did for my old car. My Saab was usually garaged, but when it wasn't, it got the full high-altitude Colorado UV. After about 18-19 years it started showing lines that looked like scratches in the paint. My PPF guy said it was the old clear bra cracking after years of UV exposure.

 

[Pointby2]

I decided to put a partial PPF for the first time after I bought my GT3. I planned to drive it and do track days. Worked great, no chips and it looked like new when I sold it.
Was lucky enough to get a Focus RS, not a real special car, but something that should hold its value. Put PPF on the front, mirrors and anywhere that might get scratched or damaged. That car is also still like new.
My wife was commuting from Anaheim to Rancho Santa Margarita in her GTI. She always has the front of her cars full of rock chips due to all the trucks that use that route. So we did PPF on that too. It's nice to not have the front of the car destroyed by rocks.

Since we are in SoCal, it wasn't cheap, but these are cars we like and plan to keep.

 

[kgtest]

I’ve never had it before, but I’m looking into it for the front bumper only.

Yes I realize most readers will say ‘what’s PPF?’ Just ignore this thread.

But I know there are some car guys/gals here too.

Yepp. We live in snow country, which means we can track in a lot of salt and also get stuck behind salt trucks literally dumping heaps of salt as we drive. So we put it on the front of the vehicle, and the door jams where you would potentially scratch the paint getting in and out of the car with salty, dirty boots.

We also have a thin line on the doors to avoid door dings.

 

[kgtest]

There ought to be a rule, if an Acronym or sme such is used, do define it.

Paint Protection Film.

You can also get your vehicle paint corrected at various "stages", and then get it ceramic coated to make it a cinch to wash it off. I think the ceramic coating is only guaranteed for like 5 years or so.

 

[6miths]

I had it on my 2007 Acura. Front of hood, top of front quarters and side mirrors. It worked well and definitely reduced/prevented paint chips. Had to come off all but mirrors a couple years ago when a deer ran out in front of DS and needed body work. I didn't pay for it as it was a floor model that the dealer had already put it on.

 

[Sunset]

The Toyota Sienna could certainly benefit from it, as the hood seems to attract stones. I did get a wind deflector and put that on.

Of course, it wouldn't stop the stone that chipped the windshield 6 years ago, when the thing was brand newish

 

[FLSUnFIRE]

I did on my Z4, but in hindsight it wasn't a great investment since I didn't keep it that long after my divorce. My current car I didn't but good film/install is pricey and as a percent of value I elected not to. I do miss the protection though. I would say, if you are considering it, get it installed ASAP before any damage occurs... as you consider it I believe it creates an eddy in the ether that will attract stones to your paint.

 

[MRG]

I put it all over my Y for 4k in 2020. Does it help? I imagine it does. We live on a gravel road and it's keeping most of the issues handled. I did hit a deer and had it replaced by the Tesla approved body shop and then redone here because it looked like a couple of kids put it on.

 

[donheff]

I never pay enough attention to my cars' finish to bother with this sort of thing. If I went for a $100K+ vehicle I might consider it but that is not in my foreseeable future.

 

[kgtest]

To save money, don't get it done from the dealer. They overcharge on everything. I got mine done by a body shop for half the price. One of those things you can shop around for.

 

[Midpack]

To save money, don't get it done from the dealer. They overcharge on everything. I got mine done by a body shop for half the price. One of those things you can shop around for.

The installer is every bit an important as the film itself, so shopping around is wise. The fewer cut edges, vs wrapped edges the better. I’ve decided I’m doing the front bumper only to reduce the worst chips, the rest of the panels will have to fend for themselves. The only reason I’m doing this car is the relatively large painted frontal area (no grill) and less than optimal paint. I don’t expect my cars to remain pristine over my ownership, usually 5-10 years.

 

[FI_RElater]

I used personal protective filters (with full PAPR at times) when in BSL 4/5 or "high containment" conditions (the ones with "three syringes on the wall") back in the day (when w@rking).... but never needed one in the vehicle

 

[Samsung4321]

I may be missing your drift, but PPF provides far greater protection against stone chips/cracks than any wax ever could. And it also slows UV degradation, and preserves your paint and clear coat better than any wax.

PPF is doubtless worthwhile in some instances and not as valuable as alternatives in other instances.

The clear top coat technology has its shortcomings. Seems more susceptible to UV, easier to chip and more difficult to patch. Which is what PPF sells on.

Cars used to be sold with small paint pots - bit like nail polish - quick dab, sand and polish. Also thicker colour layer - a cut and buff was low cost means of removing UV and other damage and doable by owner.

A clear top coated, garaged, car driven to avoid gravel damage is unlikely to benefit from PPF.

 

[camfused]

If you are just doing the hood, you can get a 24" x 72" roll of the 3M PPF for about $135, and then do it yourself. I have done it, and it is not too bad. You may get a a couple minor bubbles, but it looks pretty good.

The pieces that go around the bumper are a pain to do yourself, due to all the curves.

 

[Out of Steam]

On my car, it's a section on the upper surface of the rear bumper to protect when pulling things in and out of the trunk.

 

[Sunset]

On my car, it's a section on the upper surface of the rear bumper to protect when pulling things in and out of the trunk.

Same here, I am careful, and there is a black molding put there to help, but of course it doesn't wrap over the edge of the bumper when is where drag marks will show.