Smart lights and switches

[Ready]

I’m curious to hear what experiences others have had with installing smart light bulbs and switches in their homes.

I started off a few years ago with a few TP-Link light bulbs in our lamps so that I could control the lights using either Alexa or the Kasa app. In the last couple of weeks I’ve installed ten TP-Link dimmer switches to replace the light switches in some of our rooms. Now I have them set to turn the lights on at sunset and off at sunrise so that I don’t have to think about what lights should be on at night.

I see that Wyze is now getting into the color light bulb business. Their bulbs are brighter than the TP-Link bulbs and cost less. But I’m reluctant to buy them because they will require using the Wyze app to control them rather than using Kasa. It seems that once you buy into to a brand you buy into their ecosystem and mixing brands means having lots of different apps.

What products are you using and what has been your experience with them?

 

[1242Vintage]

I have smart Leviton switches on all common area overhead lights, ceiling fans, and a few smart outlets. Have my exterior lights controlled by smart switches too. My garage overhead lights are controlled from a connected motion detector.

I started out using a Wink branded hub to hook them all together, then migrated over to a SmartThings hub when Wink went into a subscription model.

Experience has been mostly positive. Exterior lights are on an automatic system to come on at dusk and off at sunrise. And house lights turn on when one of us gets close to home.

The bad is that switches occasionally lose contact with the hub and need to be reset. Don’t know what causes this.

Oh and you need to have a neutral wire ... the white one ... in order to hook up switches and outlets. Some older homes don’t have a neutral in the outlet box.

Questions?

 

[Hermit]

It must have been about 15 years ago or so when I set up my house in Virginia as a smart home. The light switches and several other modules were Insteon. I had them integrated with a home automation computer program called Mister House along with interfaces with the security system and the Logitech home theater control unit. I could set the lighting "scene" in the family/theater area with the press of a button on the wall as well as being controlled from the theater control unit or computer. The security system reported who entered the house based on the code or key fob used to open the garage door or deactivate the security system. I was working on individual voice greetings for whoever entered the house when I stopped working on it and a couple years later sold the house. It was pretty early in the voice generation capabilities, but there were a couple of free software apps in that area. I enjoyed putting it together at the time and hope to replicate what I had and add more to my current home. The lighting control system was pretty solid, very few issues with its communications.

 

[Trooper]

I use TP-Link wall switches to control lights when we're away - easier to set a random on/off using their app. I also have a few Wemo switches that I'm gonna replace with TP-Link, just to consolidate all in one app.

Oh and you need to have a neutral wire ... the white one ... in order to hook up switches and outlets. Some older homes don’t have a neutral in the outlet box.

Great point.

 

[RetiredAndLovingIt]

I have an Amazon plug that controls a lamp that I can turn off/on using Alexa. I've always had a problem with static electricity in my living room and I'd get zapped every single time I turned a lamp off for over 20 years, even new lamps. Since I started using voice control, problem solved, no more pain.
I also have a self monitored SmartThings ADT Alarm Hub with door sensors and motion alarm and a cheap knockoff Ring style doorbell that records anyone that comes to the door and also plays a recorded message if I don't answer.
Over the years I've also picked up a couple of Wyse cameras and some TP light bulbs but never set them up. I really have an aversion to cameras in the house just in case I got hacked and video of me running around in my undies or nothing at all show up on the internet

 

[target2019]

There may be an app that handles both brands of switches mentioned in the OP. For example, I have the SmartLife app, and it was the app recommended for two no-name plug switches. Then I bought an Akaso security camera. SmartLife also worked with that.

Going further, I found that Google Assistant (and I assume Alexa) can set up schedules and turn things ON and OFF in clever way. So I was able to place two switches in a virtual room and can turn off both switches with one command. You should be able to assign all wall switches to a group, and get them all with a sunset-driven auto-command.

Of course this will require a bit of exploring and research. At times the online documentation is out of date and refers to software settings you can't find.

The manufacturer software is probably useful in setting up your devices. But it is not the only software that can control your devices.

 

[skipro33]

Not sure this counts but I recently bought some light bulb sockets that contain a battery. It screws into the light fixture, then an LED light bulb screws into it. When the power goes off, the light bulb continues to work for a few hours. Great for short power outages! Not 'smart' in the way you probably mean, but I think it's a smart idea.

 

[airbornesapper]

Been at this game since the year dot....

If your new to this....as mentioned I would definitely base your system on a Smartthings hub (which if coupled with door and window sensors will give you free security situational awareness) and the ability to use products based on the non-propriety main interface protocols...ZWave and Zigbee.....For instance - A superb smart thermostat the Centralite Pearl can be purchased for about 75 bucks....

If you have an old tablet lying around...I recommend using it to display smart home status with control functionality using a program called Actiontiles....

We also use Ring products and the monitored version of their security system. Received that for free before release as I’m a Ring software and hardware tester... although they don’t send out as many freebies since Amazon took them over.

 

[pjigar]

Smart home has so many levels (you pick your poison) but be mindful of future implications:
* Entry-level: wifi connected devices with manufacture app and/or alexa/google integration. Good point solution but proprietary and the "smartness" is limited. Dead-end in case you want to make your home smarter in future e.g. better IFTTT capabilities, more devices, etc.
* Happy middle: Dedicated hub (Habitat is my favorite because it can work offline) and standard-based (Z-Wave, ZigBee, etc.) devices. Device compatibility and features are based on the hub you pick. Much more flexible home automation. You can pick different hub in future if you run out of features and/or you can add/replace devices any time. Most people can stop here!
* Advance: A server with home automation software (Raspberry Pi + Home Assistant is my favorite). Unlimited compatibility of device protocols. Automation is only limited by your imagination. Rabbit hole!

 

[Z3Dreamer]

Two points
Just received an email from Kasa. I have some TP-Link/Kasa devices. Anyhow, 4 smart plugs are $29.99 and I get 25% off. Making them almost free. $6 each. Wanted to get them but I don't use the one I have now. We have maybe 4 or 5 old style timers throughout the house.

Second point is that DW thinks I am nuts wanting to buy all this new technology that "we don't need!" I can now point out that are those who are on my level.

 

[skipro33]

I have an Ambient Weather WS-2000 weather station that allows for expansion of sensors that include soil moisture. I tie that in with my irrigation controller via IFTTT. Since it is a weather station, I can also have the sprinklers hold off on watering if rain is predicted within 12 hours. It also has sensors for water leaks, up to 4 of those. Water heater, sink, washing machine, toilet. It can text or email me if I set an alarm set point. The weather station also has air quality meters; one for inside, one outdoors. If air quality gets above a certain point, I set an alarm to notify me since I live in fire prone California. I get alerts when it starts to rain, handy to remember to bring in stuff that I don't want wet. I also have a weather camera I can view through my personal weather page.
I realize none of these are smart lights but thought I'd toss those smart devices out there.

 

[airbornesapper]

Two points
Just received an email from Kasa. I have some TP-Link/Kasa devices. Anyhow, 4 smart plugs are $29.99 and I get 25% off. Making them almost free. $6 each. Wanted to get them but I don't use the one I have now. We have maybe 4 or 5 old style timers throughout the house.

Second point is that DW thinks I am nuts wanting to buy all this new technology that "we don't need!" I can now point out that are those who are on my level.

One of the main benefits of a non-proprietary system is you can always get what you need on sale...but I wouldn’t advise it tying yourself to one company protocol particularly if your new to this:

“ Does Kasa smart device support ZigBee, Z-Wave, IPv6 or Ethernet connection?

A: None of our TP-Link Kasa smart device supports ZigBee or Z-Wave, and they do not support wired Ethernet and IPv6 connection neither. Besides, except for KC200 and KC120 which support both 2.4GHz and 5GHz band, all of the other smart devices support only 2.4GHz Wi-Fi band.

 

[Ready]

What is the advantage of devices that support a hub versus the TP-Link products which don’t require one?

 

[bloom2708]

I put Kasa light switches in each of the 3 top level bedrooms. They work very well.

We have several WeMo switches for lights in the family room.

Both Alexa and Siri can turn them on and off.

The only complication with the switches would be when you sell your house. I would have to leave instructions.

 

[finnski1]

Some of you mentioned having your lights "come on at sunset and off at sunrise". Do you really leave lights on all night? If so what's the reason?

I can't stand any lights on either inside or outside when I am sleeping so just curious as to the need for this?
Outside I could see the need for a motion sensor type light which I had for years myself but all night?
I understand the automation advantage and the convenience but I thought part of the "smart " home thing was also about energy savings. Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose.

 

[Ready]

Some of you mentioned having your lights "come on at sunset and off at sunrise". Do you really leave lights on all night? If so what's the reason?

I can't stand any lights on either inside or outside when I am sleeping so just curious as to the need for this?
Outside I could see the need for a motion sensor type light which I had for years myself but all night?
I understand the automation advantage and the convenience but I thought part of the "smart " home thing was also about energy savings. Doesn't that kind of defeat the purpose.

All of our lights are LED and we are on a time of use plan for electricity so the cost to keep these lights on at night is almost nothing. I like having outdoor lights on at night for security purposes. I have a camera by the front door that records motion but the quality of the recordings in full darkness is not very good.

Inside I have one lamp in the family room that stays on all night but at 10% brightness. It acts as a nightlight in case we get up while it’s still dark, and also makes it look like we are home and up in case any potential intruders are watching. We live in a downtown beach area where there are some homeless people and crime can be an issue so I don’t mind spending a few dollars to keep our house very bright and visible to deter crime.

 

[airbornesapper]

What is the advantage of devices that support a hub versus the TP-Link products which don’t require one?

Forgetting functionality which a hub based system has in droves (and in my case Samsung’s Smartthings) and the free security monitoring aspects.... I’ve saved massively buying Z-Wave and ZigBee products..... My garage door solution cost 50 bucks on eBay... 4 years ago.... At that time there was no real alternative to expensive manufacturer proprietary stuff....

I guess simply stated it’s unlimited integration, reliability, redundancy and cost...

But taking hubs out of the loop... if what your doing works for you... have at err...

 

[Ready]

I have smart Leviton switches on all common area overhead lights, ceiling fans, and a few smart outlets. Have my exterior lights controlled by smart switches too. My garage overhead lights are controlled from a connected motion detector.

I looked up the price of a Leviton smart dimmer switch and they seem to run around $50, while the TP-Link switch is $19. Is there a reason Leviton is so much more expensive?

 

[The Cosmic Avenger]

Oooh, I'm going to have to look up the TP-Link bulbs. I had a TP-Link smart outlet that we were using for a lamp, but I saw a really good price on a 4-pack of Geeni smart bulbs, and they've worked great. BUT, their app definitely suffers compared to the Kasa app, which I really liked, especially the sunrise/sunset feature, that was handy for a "vacation mode". But I still recommend the Geeni bulbs, they're a very good value. I just wish I could find a 150W equivalent smart bulb, the highest I've found is 100W equivalent (1050 lumens).

 

[CaptTom]

* Advance: A server with home automation software (Raspberry Pi + Home Assistant is my favorite). Unlimited compatibility of device protocols. Automation is only limited by your imagination. Rabbit hole!

That's what I ended up with. Funny, I don't consider myself "advanced" when I look at all the amazing things some folks are doing with Home Assistant on their forum!

But my tinkering has led me to some conclusions. Accept these with the caveat that everyone's goals and needs are different, so YMMV.

Choosing protocols is a huge decision point. It's easy to get sucked in to cheap WiFi smart plugs, but in the end WiFi may not do it for you. My experience with these is that they're generally proprietary, which locks you into setting up an account on the manufacturer's server, and having all your data flow through that (remote) server, which builds in a huge point of failure and slows things down (even if you don't care about the privacy questions.) They also require some effort to set up properly, like IP reservations on your router, and some of them don't work well in areas of your home where the WiFi signal is less than ideal. Plus, manufacturers come and go, and they change what they will and won't support.

Zigbee devices from different manufacturers usually operate seamlessly together. Yes, you need a local hub. That's a good thing. It still works when the internet connection, or the manufacturer's server, are off line. They build their own mesh network with no configuration needed on the user's part. If there's a dead spot, you just plug in a Zigbee device halfway there and it sets itself up as a repeater.

The other big decision is to commit to what you really want to do. For me, it was monitoring and control of my heating system and sump pumps. Controlling lights from our cell phones was almost an afterthought, but turns out to be something we really like.

Some people want to set themes, do person-in-room detection. control audio or video systems, security cameras, door and window sensors, whatever.

Then there are the crazy things. Bed occupancy sensors. Toothbrush sensors, toilet and shower use sensors. Not my things, but there are people who find them helpful.

 

[finnski1]

All of our lights are LED and we are on a time of use plan for electricity so the cost to keep these lights on at night is almost nothing. I like having outdoor lights on at night for security purposes. I have a camera by the front door that records motion but the quality of the recordings in full darkness is not very good.

Inside I have one lamp in the family room that stays on all night but at 10% brightness. It acts as a nightlight in case we get up while it’s still dark, and also makes it look like we are home and up in case any potential intruders are watching. We live in a downtown beach area where there are some homeless people and crime can be an issue so I don’t mind spending a few dollars to keep our house very bright and visible to deter crime.

Fair enough. Yeah I assumed people were using LED's and your situation is much different than mine(living in the woods with no neighbors) and I certainly wasn't criticizing. Just curious. Thanks.
I guess that's why we live where we do. I really enjoy zero light pollution at night and stargazing etc from my front porch/lawn. Nothing but the trees and mountain in the distance. My dog is an incredibly reliable alarm/early warning system for any intruders/suspicious activity etc

 

[1242Vintage]

Some of you mentioned having your lights "come on at sunset and off at sunrise". Do you really leave lights on all night? If so what's the reason? .

Animals! We live in a very rural area and the smaller wild critters that feast on my front landscaping at night don’t like the lights that we leave on at night.

 

[Freedom56]

We installed BN-Link 7 day light wall timer switches (from Amazon) to control some interior lights and exterior lights at our home. At our condo we installed similar timer switches from Home Depot to control our bathroom fans to turn them on/off several times per day to circulate the air and reduce humidity (when we are not there).

 

[1242Vintage]

I looked up the price of a Leviton smart dimmer switch and they seem to run around $50, while the TP-Link switch is $19. Is there a reason Leviton is so much more expensive?

I installed the Leviton brand z-wave Decora Smart switches a few years back when there weren’t many choices available. The Leviton switches were simply what I could get back then. Don’t know how they compare to other brands and options.

 

[tulak]

For lighting, I standardized on Philip Hue lights. I use their app sometimes, but mostly use their dimmer switches which I mounted on the wall. You can also the switch as a remote control for lighting, so it doesn’t have to be wall mounted.

They are a pricier option, but when I was looking there weren’t many alternatives. Plus, they support the widest form factor of bulbs. I use them in canned lights (BR30), which is harder to find with other companies.

For everything else, I use Wyze. That includes outdoor cameras, smart locks, vacuum cleaner, etc.

This leaves with me with two apps to control smart devices in my home, which is my limit.