Wanted to see if I could get refunded by automotive shop

I guess your state does not require your car to be working properly to pass inspection.... here, you cannot have a check engine light and pass...

If that was the case here, I would need to buy one of those tools to reset the error codes just before I went in for the inspection. :facepalm:
 
Mmm. The old favorite RPO and clear codes before smog check method. Nothing like some fast passes to heat up the cat and get the car running clean.
 
Mmm. The old favorite RPO and clear codes before smog check method. Nothing like some fast passes to heat up the cat and get the car running clean.


Just a question... does it keep a history of the codes:confused: They hook your car up to the computer and it checks what is happening... I would think that they should be able to tell if a code is reset just before coming in....

But, I have no idea...
 
Just a question... does it keep a history of the codes:confused: They hook your car up to the computer and it checks what is happening... I would think that they should be able to tell if a code is reset just before coming in....

But, I have no idea...

Don't know at this time and with current computers. I know the smog guys were supposed to idle the car for a set time to see if a new code would set, but people being people sometimes that time was shortened. Common practice was to send the cars in to be smogged hot as borderline rigs had the best chance of passing that way.
 
Any code is an electronic mark that is recorded by the car's computer. If the car runs fine, as him to clear the codes after recording them. Run the car some more until the codes come back, check to see if same codes. Every six months I get a check engine light referring to uneven air flow in throttle body; meaning- get a can of carb cleaner and spray the intake. Clears the code every time.
My son-in-law's Ford truck had a burned out tail light, and he promptly replaced it. It still wouldn't burn, even 3 bulbs later. Called the Ford dealership and they laughed and told him to bring it in. The computer had to reboot the light system, after seeing a burned out bulb, it shut that circuit off, and rebooting would correct the light issue. It did and there was no charge. For a stupid light bulb!

Hard to believe that any dealer will check the ECU system without charging the minimum 1 hour base rate of about $100. Whenever I get a trouble code, I go to Autozone or Advance Auto Parts to get it checked for free. Then I'll go to the internet to see what that code's common fix is for my specific automobile/truck.

The big auto parts chains have got to where they won't tell you anything but the code number and they usually won't reset your ECU to remove the code. They don't want to be liable for parts and service being done due to a misdiagnosis from a code reader. There are often many angles to a code issued.

The easy way to reset the electronics is to remove the positive battery cable from the battery and touch the cable end to the negative pole for 30 seconds. It resets all of the electronic modules to a default point.
 
I have never trusted the code readers at Autozone or Advance. My mechanic will check mine anytime I ask for nothing, but I've been a happy customer for 27 years. He's been a happy mechanic as I usually have 3 vehicles for him to address. I take care of the small stuff, he takes care of the pain in the arse stuff.
 
If that was the case here, I would need to buy one of those tools to reset the error codes just before I went in for the inspection. :facepalm:

And you would fail the test.

It's more sophisticated than that. The light is cleared, but it will show a "NOT READY" status to a code reader, until the car has been driven through enough miles and different conditions for the sensor to make a pass/fail determination.

BTW, very sophisticated code readers are very cheap now, like ~ $15. It is a bluetooth dongle that plugs in the OBDII port, and communicates with several free program s on you smartphone or tablet. Tells much more than the average code reader.

-ERD50
 
What happens if I get the throttle assembly fixed and the light comes on again? I don't want to keep throwing money into this.

first of all you will need to go through a "driving cycle" so all status codes they read show "ready"

if you do that, then you will either trip another CEL or you won't

so yes, it's a bit of trial and error, good luck
 
Just a question... does it keep a history of the codes:confused: .

no - but if you fail emissions in TX they will keep it on the vehicle's record - just make sure you don't fail (i.e. get a scanner and check before you take it in)
 
To the people who asked how much. I was charged $200 for the part and $50 for labor. The error codes were different.

I believe someone had mentioned that with this problem it could be a lot of things. Another question, with the engine light on, I will not be able to pass inspection when it is time to get a sticker. What happens if I get the throttle assembly fixed and the light comes on again? I don't want to keep throwing money into this.

I hear you and I sympathize. I'm dealing with exactly the same type of issues right now with my 09 Outback. It is very frustrating to keep throwing good money after bad, but on the other hand, it is not reasonable to expect the mechanic to carry the risk either. He will take his best shot at diagnosing the most likely culprits and then you decide whether it is worth trying to fix it. When you decide to give the "go ahead", then the risk is YOURS. He still did the work - whether it fixed the problem or not. So, he should get paid for it. If you think he sucks at diagnosing, then find a different mechanic, but don't make the current one work for free.
 
I hear you and I sympathize. I'm dealing with exactly the same type of issues right now with my 09 Outback.

I think the culprit in DWs subaru CEL was the fuel pressure regulator or something? took forever to figure it out
 
I guess your state does not require your car to be working properly to pass inspection.... here, you cannot have a check engine light and pass...

We do have state inspection, but no problem with "engine light." Someone suggested getting the light turned off before inspection. If it doesn't come back on for a couple of days, that might work. There are places on the net (or perhaps radio shack/best buys, etc.) which sell a diagnostic reader with all the codes AND a cancel-light. Probably costs $100. Just a thought.

As far as the "car working properly", mine does indeed. I've seen no degradation in performance or fuel mileage before to after the light came on all those years ago. I understand the "concept" as it relates to state inspection. But because of the issues mentioned (great expense just to FIND the real problem for instance) it sounds like a racket between the state authorities and the dealerships. Not that I'm paranoid, but in my case, I could have spent several hundred dollars further diagnosing the problem, only to find out (perhaps) that the replacement cost is more than the car is worth (in my case, a 2000 car worth maybe $3000.)

I went through this with a car from the early 80s. By the time the mechanic(s) replaced enough parts to fix the problem, I had spent more than the car was worth. If I have to (at some point in the future) I'll find someone to disable the light before I'll play that game again. As always, your conscience and mileage may vary.
 
those things can be a real booger - we ended up replacing the gas cap, charcoal canister, etc and finally having to replace the fuel pump which fixed it on DWs old scoob

no warranty either :mad:

Heh, heh, I did end up years later replacing a failed fuel pump on the car and that did not turn off the light!!:facepalm: In that case, I had no choice. Without the full pump, the car was going nowhere. YMMV
 
I bought the cheapest code reader from pep boys that was supposed to work with my auto. It reads some things, other codes are unknown. It does clear all just fine.
 
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