What We're Making

Very interesting method with gluing strip around a jig. Thanks, you all for all your advice. I do go buy a used almost brand-new pair of cross-country skis after I posted this morning.

I have a set now just in case I decide to use skis for runners. It might be better and more durable than my gluing ability.

Or you can get a tin trash can lid or corrugated box... Just don't hook it up to a 4x4 truck and ride around the neighborhood with mailboxes. Ask me how I know...
 
Or you can get a tin trash can lid or corrugated box... Just don't hook it up to a 4x4 truck and ride around the neighborhood with mailboxes. Ask me how I know...

LOL!!! It sounds like we were both fortunate to see retirement years. Sometimes I think back to those young years growing up and shake my head.
 
Here's some not sanded epoxy, a quilt assembly piece I made for my wife a few years back. It is a custom piece of lightweight meranti marine plywood, originally 60" x 80"
They had it up at Edensaw woods in Port Townsend. It got forked and damaged on one edge and made me a deal.
I cleaned it up, glued and nailed on some oak edge for durability and rolled on some marine epoxy. We use it to build the quilt sandwich.

PXL-20230112-231742356.jpg
 
The story was these were custom pieces to make two first responder backboards. The customer had a CNC router for the 6 handholes . It is 12MM and remarkably light and strong.
 
Finally finished it... Adding a boatload of bathroom storage.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230116_112458163.jpg
    IMG_20230116_112458163.jpg
    254.2 KB · Views: 29
^Very nice! What's the story with the top panels? Fixed panels or did you run out of door handles? It is very high - probably can't be used for storage.
 
^Very nice! What's the story with the top panels? Fixed panels or did you run out of door handles? It is very high - probably can't be used for storage.

Yeah, just gotta get 2 more. It'll be for stuff we never need, like Covid food hoarding supplies. :cool:
 
Whipped up another charcuterie board from wood scraps with turquoise inlays at the butt joints. And DW augmented the photo.
 

Attachments

  • 65EC3EC1-9453-4864-9A33-22B1A87BC6AC.jpeg
    65EC3EC1-9453-4864-9A33-22B1A87BC6AC.jpeg
    726.7 KB · Views: 26
I finished a couple of 2'x4' modular work benches (first project) but I need to make a cross cut sled for my old table saw and make a circular saw guide. I have been trying to find decent plywood but HD and Lowes plywood is garbage. Can the experienced wood workers tell me if (1.) 3/4" MDF can be used and maintained as a flat accessory? (2.) can a ripped 1/4 inch thick pieces of MDF be securely wood glued to it for rails? (3.) Would it be possible to polyurethane (oil based) them when finished to keep it from swelling from moisture and not affect the rails fitting? They will be used and stored in the garage and I live near the ocean in Florida. Not the best environment for wood and tools.
Both budget and decent available wood is limited and hard to find and I sure would like to get started learning woodworking. Thanks

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
Whipped up another charcuterie board from wood scraps with turquoise inlays at the butt joints. And DW augmented the photo.

Beautiful charcuterie board. Nice bowl too. Is that another one of your skills?

Cheers!
 
I finished a couple of 2'x4' modular work benches (first project) but I need to make a cross cut sled for my old table saw and make a circular saw guide. I have been trying to find decent plywood but HD and Lowes plywood is garbage. Can the experienced wood workers tell me if (1.) 3/4" MDF can be used and maintained as a flat accessory? (2.) can a ripped 1/4 inch thick pieces of MDF be securely wood glued to it for rails? (3.) Would it be possible to polyurethane (oil based) them when finished to keep it from swelling from moisture and not affect the rails fitting? They will be used and stored in the garage and I live near the ocean in Florida. Not the best environment for wood and tools.
Both budget and decent available wood is limited and hard to find and I sure would like to get started learning woodworking. Thanks

Cheers!

The 3/4” mdf should be ok for the base of a sled. Humidity does create problems for mdf. The poly should help, but all surfaces need to be coated. Not sure how you plan to use the 1/4” pieces on the sled, but 1/4” seems too thin. Do you have a picture of the sled you want to make?
 
The 3/4” mdf should be ok for the base of a sled. Humidity does create problems for mdf. The poly should help, but all surfaces need to be coated. Not sure how you plan to use the 1/4” pieces on the sled, but 1/4” seems too thin. Do you have a picture of the sled you want to make?

I should have written a better description. The 1/4 inch pieces would be the length of the sled and fasten on the bottom. They would fit in the miter slots on the table saw to make sure the sled tracks straight without moving sideways.
The other concern would be that they would swell and be too tight in the miter slots once they are waterproofed with polyurethane. The idea would be to use MDF for the entire sled.

https://theweekendwoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/WWMM-Crosscut-Sled.pdf

Cheers!
 
Last edited:
I should have written a better description. The 1/4 inch pieces would be the length of the sled and fasten on the bottom. They would fit in the miter slots on the table saw to make sure the sled tracks straight without moving sideways.
The other concern would be that they would swell and be too tight in the miter slots once they are waterproofed with polyurethane. The idea would be to use MDF for the entire sled.

https://theweekendwoodworker.com/wp-content/uploads/WWMM-Crosscut-Sled.pdf

Cheers!

I don't think I would use mdf for the slots. That's the part of the sled that needs to be the most stable. Maybe these. I have them - they're adjustable and work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Sl...cphy=9021614&hvtargid=pla-1060237762718&psc=1
 
I don't think I would use mdf for the slots. That's the part of the sled that needs to be the most stable. Maybe these. I have them - they're adjustable and work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Sl...cphy=9021614&hvtargid=pla-1060237762718&psc=1

You beat me to the punch... Here's the link to another. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VXRJT4...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

I finally bit the bullet & got the Incra 5000 as I do a bit of long panel dados & it's surprisingly accurate. The sled base is mdf with a laminate, like thin formica. The track is adjustable to fit my slots snuggly. $310 after Rockler 20% off...
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20221220_145521246_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20221220_145521246_HDR.jpg
    790.8 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
Nice work Ronstar. How are you doing the groove for the epoxy fill? Looks like a slight overlap in the next row. V bit?
 
Last edited:
I finished a couple of 2'x4' modular work benches (first project) but I need to make a cross cut sled for my old table saw and make a circular saw guide. I have been trying to find decent plywood but HD and Lowes plywood is garbage. Can the experienced wood workers tell me if (1.) 3/4" MDF can be used and maintained as a flat accessory? (2.) can a ripped 1/4 inch thick pieces of MDF be securely wood glued to it for rails? (3.) Would it be possible to polyurethane (oil based) them when finished to keep it from swelling from moisture and not affect the rails fitting? They will be used and stored in the garage and I live near the ocean in Florida. Not the best environment for wood and tools.
Both budget and decent available wood is limited and hard to find and I sure would like to get started learning woodworking. Thanks

Cheers!

I made my cross-cut sled from a spare Ikea shelf, much like this one: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/utrusta-shelf-white-00265533/
 
Nice work Ronstar. How are you doing the groove for the epoxy fill? Looks like a slight overlap in the next row. V bit?

Thanks - I was thinking about deepening the cut with a v groove, but just deepened it a little with a straight bit. Then bermed up the epoxy area with caulk, and poured the epoxy over the turquoise. Plan was to have all turquoise below the surface of the board.


I'm letting it set up for a few days, and then I'll take the epoxy down to board level with a router sled and straight bit. I don't need to have this done for months, so I'm in no hurry.


Here's what it looks like now.
 

Attachments

  • 08FC13CE-89F8-4C67-9CB6-271084C2CE9E_1_201_a.jpeg
    08FC13CE-89F8-4C67-9CB6-271084C2CE9E_1_201_a.jpeg
    1.2 MB · Views: 60
Ohhh My!!! That is a beautiful piece of work. Thanks for sharing that finish project.
 
Nice turn out. Was the oil worth it? I don't mind paying up for great stuff...

Thanks - So far I think the oil is worth it. But $46 for 17 ounces is steep.

It goes on very thin so that helps. I like the way the wax in it tends to stiffen up like a car wax, then just wipe it down.

Needless to say, I'm only going to use it on small things.

Oops - spellcheck corrected the name to Oslo a few posts above - but its Osmo.
 
Back
Top Bottom